Just wanted to post some information I was given today that may help someone, somewhere. This is some additional information to help if you're considering, or are using, "time outs" to curb biting. And then some additional information/help/suggestions on biting below that.
Use three cue words to explain to your puppy exactly what you are and aren't going to accept for biting. There's no "ouch" or "NO!". They are said kindly.
1. A word that tells your puppy she is close to crossing the line into the biting that you don't accept. Basically, a word that means "Uh oh, keep that up and you're in trouble". My word is "Gentle". This is also the word I use when I am teaching her to take treats carefully so she knows that it means "have a softer mouth".
2. A word or phrase that tells your dog "you crossed the line". Some people use "too bad" or "bummer!". You'd say this word as soon as you receive the kind of biting that crosses the line you've set (the amount of pressure you're NOT ok with). The timeout would come immediately after this word.
3. A word or phrase that tells the dog she's pulled the biting back enough to save her from a time out. Most people use "thank you". I use "nice". It lets the dog know that she's back at a safe level of biting/mouthing, so it indicates to her exactly where you want the level of mouthing.
Other tips/suggestions not related to time outs:
-if you have a leg biter carry a long, dangling toy at times when you expect leg biting (first thing in the morning, on a walk, preparing her dinner, etc) and redirect her to that
-if your puppy mouthes/bites strangers when she meets them, have a toy ready, let them know you're training her to not bite and give them the toy to give to her to bite instead while they pet her
-if your puppy can't be redirected to focus on a dangling toy rather than your skin...I would recommend trying more and more and more different kinds of toys. There are some toys I would expect would be VERY enticing and my dog couldn't care less. And then toys that I don't even understand...she LOVES. Of the 30+ toys I've bought my dog, there are maybe 2 that she absolutely LOVES and will focus on instead of me. So it's trial and error. Expensive, but to me...finding those 2 that she loves is TOTALLY priceless (and will pay off in the long run because it may just help her stop biting and ripping your clothes)
-when the puppy is mouthing in a polite way use your "thank you" or "nice" or whatever in a fairly subdued manner, and then "where's your toy?". Go get a toy and LAVISH attention on her as long as she has the toy in her mouth. Make her think that having a toy in her mouth is what gets her the very best attention.
-sounds weird, BUT. When giving treats, hold it with your index finger and thumb. When she opens her mouth put the treat further into her mouth than you normally would (behind her front teeth) and push your index finger down on her tongue as you drop the treat in her mouth and pull your hand back. It sounds awkward as heck, and it is at first. My dog constantly turned her head to the side so I missed her tongue and then used her back molars to bite my finger while it was in her mouth... It doesn't have to be a hard push on the tongue at all. Just having your finger there disrupts her jaws from clenching down. I suppose this might be considered adversive for the hardcore positive reinforcement types? My dog is quite sensitive and it didn't discourage her from wanting the treats I was offering...but after about 10 of these little tongue depressions she was taking the treats from my fingers like she was trying to extract a sliver from my fingertip. And that's after wearing bandaids for a week because she had ripped up my fingers so badly when giving treats. Use your cue word for "don't bite any harder than that!" while you're doing this to let the dog connect the word with having a soft, mindful mouth.
-My trainer also suggested some games to teach self control. "Go wild and freeze" and "tug and freeze". In "go wild", you basically run around like an idiot, cheering your dog along, clapping, hooting and hollering and getting her excited, then once she's moderately aroused you stop and become very calm. You kneel down, speak very calmly to her, give her treats very gently, pet her slowly, help her relax for a minute or so. Then back to "go wild"! "Tug and freeze" is the same. Tug, tug, tug then "drop it" (if she knows it) and some treats, gentle talking, slow petting. Then tug, tug, tug. Not sure what you'd do for that one if your dog didn't know "drop it"...
This is what I learned today during our private session with a trainer. Hopefully someone can benefit from this. I'm sure not everyone will agree with all of it, and some people may find that none of it works on their puppy at ALL. But I know what it's like to be desperate for ANY ideas.
