I posted this on another forum and got some really interesting food for thought from some brillinat dog trainers so I'll cross post it here too.
NILIF (nothing in life is free) is the thing I most commonly hear suggested on every online forum for just about any dog related problem people encounter.
While I certainly agree that it's better to assert yourself as the leader through control of resources, controlling the dogs behavior in a hands off way, rather than by physical means or punishment, I do think there are better ways than what I've read described as "NILIF".
I got thinking about this in another thread on another forum where a dog who had previously worked pretty well, started to ignore and avoid his owner when she went to an NILIF approach. Work became no fun anymore and he ended up with a sour attitude. The owner developed a drill sergeant mentality and Bob's your uncle! nobody is having fun anymore and everything deteriorates.
The way I was taught and what I thinks works better, is instead of CUEING / commanding the dog to do something for everything they want or get, you set it up to be DEFAULT or automatic polite behaviors.
Rather than Cueing the dog, you just WAIT til the dog offers a polite behavior or what you like. Ignore everything else. Typically dogs offer sitting and eye contact because sitting is the first thing they learn and has the longest history of reinforcement and they look at you to figure out what the heck you are doing-- that works for me. Dogs who are politely sitting and looking at me are being calm and aren't doing anything obnoxious that I don't like. As Ian Dunbar says "Don't just DO something, stand there"
The difference seems subtle but instead of the dog feeling like he is being told what to do all the time and maybe becoming resentful and an owner feeling like they always have to TELL the dog what to do, which gets old pretty fast, you get a dog who * just knows * and automatically does "good things" and is polite.
The dog likes it because he thinks he has figured out how to get you to do what he wants and you are happy because you now have a dog who* just knows * how to behave and be polite. In his mind, he's got the keys to the kingdom and you're happy because your dog is being well behaved and polite without your having to DO or SAY anything. It's win-win.
This approach also has a calming effect on dogs who tend to be hyper- or at least that's what I have found with Rowdy (crazy foster dog) and Rosie (hyper aussie).
Cueing/commanding dogs to do things doesn't have the same effect as letting them think about it and deciding for themselves what to do. I much prefer having a thinking dog rather than a dog who has to be told what to do or does whatever he likes until he is told otherwise.Thinking and figuring it out is also mentally challenging and stimulating for the dog.
I find this much more effective for teaching self control and getting hyper dogs to learn to be calm. The dog needs to control HIMSELF rather than ME intervening to control his behavior.
Here's how it works at my house:
-Dog comes to me and wants attention or petting.
I say nothing, do nothing until the dog politely sits. (I ignore any obnoxious behaviors like shoving a nose under my hand, mauling me etc. If the behavior is impossible to ignore I walk away.) The instant the dogs sits, I tell them they're great and pat them. If patting them results in hyper obnxious behavior or the dog breaking the sit, I take my hand away- saying NOTHING. Repeat.
In less than half a day I have a dog who runs up to me and plunks his butt in the ground politely for attention-- beautiful.
-Dog wants me to open the door and let him out in the yard? I WAIT (silently with my hand on the knob) for a sit and eye contact and open as soon as I get the desired behavior. The first one or two might take 3o seconds, but subsequent times are really quick. I don't require a sit anymore but I do get eye contact.
- Dog wants me to put his food bowl down? Same thing --I WAIT for a sit and eye contact and the sit has to be maintained til I release the dog to his food. If the dog breaks the sit, the food just comes back up, I stand up-- no words are spoken. Talking and ah! ah! ing just distract from the process of the dog figuring it out.
-Dog wants up on my bed? I wait for a sit and eye contact and tell the dog "ok! "
(if that dog is allowed on beds- if they are "on probation" and there are issues, they probably don't have on the bed priviledges)
Sitting and offering eye contact becomes like saying please.
I also like this method because if I have guests over, which is when Rosie tends to get hyper and do silly, obnoxious things, and I am busy looking after and talking to my guests, I don't have to split my focus to watch the dog and have to tell her what to do. Much more pleasant.
People are amazed and say "oh your dogs are sooo gooood. Border collies JUST KNOW how to be good" HA! Far from it and Rosie isn't a bc -LOL. But yes, they don't need to be TOLD what to do all the time because they've already learned what works and what doesn't, so they automatically do what works.
I see owners get tired of cueing their dog all the time they want a dog that KNOWS how to behave. They want "a good dog" and this lets them have it.
They get tired of telling their dog what NOT to do and want their dog to "just be good already" this method lets you have that.
I also don't like telling my dogs what NOT to do. It makes me grumpy and it's not very concrete concept to the dog. It's far easier to teach a dog what TO do than what NOT to do.
If the dog is doing something I don't like , I don't usually scold, say NO! or otherwise try to show the dog that they should never do that (a few exceptions). I cue them to perform an incompatible, alternate behavior that they know how to do and reward for that *** I make sure the behavior I want "works" for the dog***.
Now instead of having dogs that beg at the table and bother me when I'm cooking, I have dogs that AUTOMATICALLY lie down 10 feet away and wait because they have learned THAT behavior is the one that earns them what they want. Being at the table or in the kitchen never does.
Lie ten feet away quietly and odds are I'm going to toss you something.
People tend to make the mistake of ignoring the dog when he is being calm and lying down-- so why would the dog do it then? Owners get focused on teaching the dog NOT to do "bad" things and it feels like a full time job. Don't miss an opportunity to reward the dog for doing a behavior you like! He's lying down being calm? Mark it! Go give him a pat or a treat and walk away. Your dog will be shocked and you'll notice that pretty soon he is doing that behavior more often .
I suspect that's probably what lots of you do for NILIF already but it's not how I've read the method described and I find the difference significant and something that has made my life with hyper, intense dogs (plus kids and a cat) so much easier so I thought it was worth talking about.
NILIF (nothing in life is free) is the thing I most commonly hear suggested on every online forum for just about any dog related problem people encounter.
While I certainly agree that it's better to assert yourself as the leader through control of resources, controlling the dogs behavior in a hands off way, rather than by physical means or punishment, I do think there are better ways than what I've read described as "NILIF".
I got thinking about this in another thread on another forum where a dog who had previously worked pretty well, started to ignore and avoid his owner when she went to an NILIF approach. Work became no fun anymore and he ended up with a sour attitude. The owner developed a drill sergeant mentality and Bob's your uncle! nobody is having fun anymore and everything deteriorates.
The way I was taught and what I thinks works better, is instead of CUEING / commanding the dog to do something for everything they want or get, you set it up to be DEFAULT or automatic polite behaviors.
Rather than Cueing the dog, you just WAIT til the dog offers a polite behavior or what you like. Ignore everything else. Typically dogs offer sitting and eye contact because sitting is the first thing they learn and has the longest history of reinforcement and they look at you to figure out what the heck you are doing-- that works for me. Dogs who are politely sitting and looking at me are being calm and aren't doing anything obnoxious that I don't like. As Ian Dunbar says "Don't just DO something, stand there"
The difference seems subtle but instead of the dog feeling like he is being told what to do all the time and maybe becoming resentful and an owner feeling like they always have to TELL the dog what to do, which gets old pretty fast, you get a dog who * just knows * and automatically does "good things" and is polite.
The dog likes it because he thinks he has figured out how to get you to do what he wants and you are happy because you now have a dog who* just knows * how to behave and be polite. In his mind, he's got the keys to the kingdom and you're happy because your dog is being well behaved and polite without your having to DO or SAY anything. It's win-win.
This approach also has a calming effect on dogs who tend to be hyper- or at least that's what I have found with Rowdy (crazy foster dog) and Rosie (hyper aussie).
Cueing/commanding dogs to do things doesn't have the same effect as letting them think about it and deciding for themselves what to do. I much prefer having a thinking dog rather than a dog who has to be told what to do or does whatever he likes until he is told otherwise.Thinking and figuring it out is also mentally challenging and stimulating for the dog.
I find this much more effective for teaching self control and getting hyper dogs to learn to be calm. The dog needs to control HIMSELF rather than ME intervening to control his behavior.
Here's how it works at my house:
-Dog comes to me and wants attention or petting.
I say nothing, do nothing until the dog politely sits. (I ignore any obnoxious behaviors like shoving a nose under my hand, mauling me etc. If the behavior is impossible to ignore I walk away.) The instant the dogs sits, I tell them they're great and pat them. If patting them results in hyper obnxious behavior or the dog breaking the sit, I take my hand away- saying NOTHING. Repeat.
In less than half a day I have a dog who runs up to me and plunks his butt in the ground politely for attention-- beautiful.
-Dog wants me to open the door and let him out in the yard? I WAIT (silently with my hand on the knob) for a sit and eye contact and open as soon as I get the desired behavior. The first one or two might take 3o seconds, but subsequent times are really quick. I don't require a sit anymore but I do get eye contact.
- Dog wants me to put his food bowl down? Same thing --I WAIT for a sit and eye contact and the sit has to be maintained til I release the dog to his food. If the dog breaks the sit, the food just comes back up, I stand up-- no words are spoken. Talking and ah! ah! ing just distract from the process of the dog figuring it out.
-Dog wants up on my bed? I wait for a sit and eye contact and tell the dog "ok! "
(if that dog is allowed on beds- if they are "on probation" and there are issues, they probably don't have on the bed priviledges)
Sitting and offering eye contact becomes like saying please.
I also like this method because if I have guests over, which is when Rosie tends to get hyper and do silly, obnoxious things, and I am busy looking after and talking to my guests, I don't have to split my focus to watch the dog and have to tell her what to do. Much more pleasant.
People are amazed and say "oh your dogs are sooo gooood. Border collies JUST KNOW how to be good" HA! Far from it and Rosie isn't a bc -LOL. But yes, they don't need to be TOLD what to do all the time because they've already learned what works and what doesn't, so they automatically do what works.
I see owners get tired of cueing their dog all the time they want a dog that KNOWS how to behave. They want "a good dog" and this lets them have it.
They get tired of telling their dog what NOT to do and want their dog to "just be good already" this method lets you have that.
I also don't like telling my dogs what NOT to do. It makes me grumpy and it's not very concrete concept to the dog. It's far easier to teach a dog what TO do than what NOT to do.
If the dog is doing something I don't like , I don't usually scold, say NO! or otherwise try to show the dog that they should never do that (a few exceptions). I cue them to perform an incompatible, alternate behavior that they know how to do and reward for that *** I make sure the behavior I want "works" for the dog***.
Now instead of having dogs that beg at the table and bother me when I'm cooking, I have dogs that AUTOMATICALLY lie down 10 feet away and wait because they have learned THAT behavior is the one that earns them what they want. Being at the table or in the kitchen never does.
Lie ten feet away quietly and odds are I'm going to toss you something.
People tend to make the mistake of ignoring the dog when he is being calm and lying down-- so why would the dog do it then? Owners get focused on teaching the dog NOT to do "bad" things and it feels like a full time job. Don't miss an opportunity to reward the dog for doing a behavior you like! He's lying down being calm? Mark it! Go give him a pat or a treat and walk away. Your dog will be shocked and you'll notice that pretty soon he is doing that behavior more often .
I suspect that's probably what lots of you do for NILIF already but it's not how I've read the method described and I find the difference significant and something that has made my life with hyper, intense dogs (plus kids and a cat) so much easier so I thought it was worth talking about.