How Much And WHAT To Teach First Week?

DogLuvvr

New Member
Joined
May 9, 2008
Messages
70
Likes
0
Points
0
#1
I'm reading The Power of Positive Dog Training, and the author suggests that you teach the dog several things the first week of training, but to me it seems like it might be a bit much for an 8 week old pup for the first week.

Furthermore, she doesn't instruct the owner to teach "Come" until the second week, which is something that I would think should be one of the first things taught.

So what do you guys think? How much is too much training for an 8 week old pup during the first week of having him? Also, what are the first things you would teach a pup during the first week?
 

adojrts

New Member
Joined
Dec 27, 2006
Messages
4,089
Likes
0
Points
0
Location
Ontario, Canada
#3
With a 8 wk old pup I teach, sit, down, hand touch, and off leash heeling indoors. Plus they learn to watch me (make eye contact) be handled all over their body. I also hand feed every meal and the pup works for most of the meal, even if its only me handling the pup and putting my hand in the bowl for the last bit of food etc.
I would agree that by the second week, that I start to work on recalls, first during meals by rolling kibble in different directions and adding a 'come' when the pup turns back to me. Then restrained recalls.
Training a recall on a puppy can be very easy and have lasting awesome results as long as we are careful not to call them when we know they wont and to control everything so they don't learn not to respond to us.
 

Kayla

New Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2006
Messages
1,421
Likes
0
Points
0
Location
Northern Alberta
#4
IMO, teaching OB commands, while important are not nearly as important as teaching life skills to a pup that young. You only have a small window to really get your pup used to and excited about handling, all over, by all types of people. I can't stress how important it is to this at your pups comfort level. If you cant touch his feet yet, then start with his upper body, slowly day by day ( you can do this while feeding him his breakfast, dinner or both) move your way down the body, towards the feet, always ending after a short session and always before your pup get's boored or pushed past their comfort level. Introduce them to the clippers by running them through the process ( pick up foot, touch nail) but then clip the air so the dog gets used to everything but doesnt experince the clip yet. In this way you can get your pup excited about nail clipping before he even experinces it.

My next priority with young pups is bite inhibition. Tons of different ways to approach this, some people use a three strikes your out time out rule, some people will yelp and some withdraw attention. I'm in favour of 1 and 3 as I find with high energy pups, the yelp is just inticing. Either way if your pup ever puts mouth on skin ( and it will happen) either withdraw your attention temporarily, get up SLOWLY and go to another room. Or by giving a ah ah or no and then on the third strike putting them in a time-out. Remember time-out is not supposde to be a punishment as you would never want to associate the crate with anything bad. So use neutral tones and make sure your pup is used to going in to the crate by himself and is comfortable in their before using this route. Time out is simply not reinforcing, the pup is now away from all of the fun and games but gets to come back out after 30-40 seconds and gets to stay out as long as they don't nip you.


I would also start playing self control games, my favourite is the it's your choice game. It's played much like tennis between you and your dog, your serve your dogs serve. To start close your fingers around the treat and show your pup, if he sniffs at and noses it, ignore him, once he stops or pauses open your palm, if he lunges forward, close it immediately, once again if he pauses or stops nosing at you, open your palm. If he lunges again repeat above, but if he hesitates and does not bother you, pick up the treat in your other hand. If he lunges, it's back to your serve, close your palm. Only calmly waiting will get that treat to him. So once you can open your palm and pick up the treat, then he can have it. You can start adding variety to this, using tennis balls, greeting people ( though you need to teach sit and start adding distractions before doing this one) and so on.

Lastly I would start teaching leave it, as puppies tend to mouth things they shouldn't this can be a life saver.

Just remember you have your pups whole life to teach OB commands but only a small window to get your pup to associate new things, places, people and pets as good safe things. Grab a pouch of treats to bring on all of your walks and ask as many strangers as you can find to give your pup a few treats ( ask them to keep their palm open and face up, so your pup doesnt accidently nip them. If you can walk by traffic while dishing out treats, and walk by other dogs and dish out more treats. You can let your pup greet other dogs only if you first ask the owner, if their dog tolerates puppy behaviour ( which is often rude) if they don't know- you dont stop to let them great.

Cheers
Kayla
 

Lizmo

Water Junkie
Joined
Aug 1, 2006
Messages
17,300
Likes
0
Points
0
Location
AL
#5
The biggest thing I was teaching at 7-8 weeks was respect for me. Which includes, not bitting me, not jumping, and listening when I talk.

The other biggy I was teaching is Here. I think thats the thing I've worked on MOST with him the 4 months I've had him so far. And of course, his name.

He was making eye contact with me the day I got him, so thats something I never worked on. It came natural, along with his recall. Wow, I couldn't BELIEVE how natural that was for him.

After he'd gotten those down pretty well, I started lie down. Because with what he'll be doing when he gets older, he will need a lie down more than a sit. And plus when I say "Lie down" I don't want him to sit before he went down, I wanted an immediant respose (drop down) to "lie down".

Then I started teaching sit. Along with Leave It.

And now, he's 6 months old :lol-sign:

Oh, and just a few days ago I added "That'll Do" (I know I'm pretty late on this command).

I really don't think you can "teach to much" at 8 weeks. It's more of, how much the pup can handle at that age. And only you can know that, because you should know your pup. Blaze, he could handle alot at 8 weeks. We did alot of recall training in that 8-12 week period.

I like this quote....It applies to putting a pup on stock, but it can still apply to training your pup:

If it jumps right back up and keeps coming on, then it's handling the pressure. Or maybe I'll ask it to lie down while I'm taking it around the farm next to my four wheeler and it it comes up fresh and ready and eager to learn then it is ready for that pressure. If every time it gets up slower and slower and acts offened then that puppy is telling you it's not ready for real training - David Henry
 
Last edited:

adojrts

New Member
Joined
Dec 27, 2006
Messages
4,089
Likes
0
Points
0
Location
Ontario, Canada
#6
Kayla, great post ^^^^^^:hail:
Agreed, those life lessons should be taught as well, lol funny how when teaching those the OB comes along too :)
I love the It's Your Choice Game for any age but it is very effective with pups as well.
I teach bite inhibition a bit differently than many folks, of course its only part of the total bite inhibition training. First I make sure that the pup has had at least an intro to clicker training. Then I hold a soft toy in my left hand, wanting the pup to grab on and pull (they pull I don't), then I slip my finger into their mouths, not pinching, not poking or pushing onto gums etc, its not about force or pain. Pups are always surprised to find my finger going in to their mouth and they always start to avoid it (even just a little bit) at that point I click and reward. The pups quickly learn that when they feel flesh to let go of the toy and avoid the finger.
This has also worked very well for older pups that have not learned bite inhibition and boundries in playing.
 

DogLuvvr

New Member
Joined
May 9, 2008
Messages
70
Likes
0
Points
0
#7
With a 8 wk old pup I teach, sit, down, hand touch, and off leash heeling indoors. Plus they learn to watch me (make eye contact) be handled all over their body. I also hand feed every meal and the pup works for most of the meal, even if its only me handling the pup and putting my hand in the bowl for the last bit of food etc.
I would agree that by the second week, that I start to work on recalls, first during meals by rolling kibble in different directions and adding a 'come' when the pup turns back to me. Then restrained recalls.
Training a recall on a puppy can be very easy and have lasting awesome results as long as we are careful not to call them when we know they wont and to control everything so they don't learn not to respond to us.
Is there any particular reason that you wait until the second week to teach recall?
 

DogLuvvr

New Member
Joined
May 9, 2008
Messages
70
Likes
0
Points
0
#8
My next priority with young pups is bite inhibition. Tons of different ways to approach this, some people use a three strikes your out time out rule, some people will yelp and some withdraw attention. I'm in favour of 1 and 3 as I find with high energy pups, the yelp is just inticing. Either way if your pup ever puts mouth on skin ( and it will happen) either withdraw your attention temporarily, get up SLOWLY and go to another room. Or by giving a ah ah or no and then on the third strike putting them in a time-out. Remember time-out is not supposde to be a punishment as you would never want to associate the crate with anything bad. So use neutral tones and make sure your pup is used to going in to the crate by himself and is comfortable in their before using this route. Time out is simply not reinforcing, the pup is now away from all of the fun and games but gets to come back out after 30-40 seconds and gets to stay out as long as they don't nip you.


I would also start playing self control games, my favourite is the it's your choice game. It's played much like tennis between you and your dog, your serve your dogs serve. To start close your fingers around the treat and show your pup, if he sniffs at and noses it, ignore him, once he stops or pauses open your palm, if he lunges forward, close it immediately, once again if he pauses or stops nosing at you, open your palm. If he lunges again repeat above, but if he hesitates and does not bother you, pick up the treat in your other hand. If he lunges, it's back to your serve, close your palm. Only calmly waiting will get that treat to him. So once you can open your palm and pick up the treat, then he can have it. You can start adding variety to this, using tennis balls, greeting people ( though you need to teach sit and start adding distractions before doing this one) and so on.
Interesting suggestions on teaching bite inhibition. I think I'll probably opt for ignoring the pup, and rewarding him when he's calm in my arms without biting.

I also like the choice game and the variations to it. Great tip. Thanks! :)
 

Kayla

New Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2006
Messages
1,421
Likes
0
Points
0
Location
Northern Alberta
#9
DogLuvr- I can't take to much credit for that self control game as I read about it in an issue of Dog sport, but I really love it. I had a bit of a landshark on my hands when it came to taking treats this game has drastically improved how softly he takes the treat.

Adojrts- great tip about clicker training the bite inhabition, I love it!


DogLuvr- These are just the things I wish I had done with my pup when he was younger, I know better know but it's to late to turn back the clock. He may listen amazingly well but without that critical comfort and positive associations from a very early age with other people and dogs, and situations, there's only so much patch up work you can do and nothing compares to covering everything when they are young.

Ps- have you posted any pics of your pup yet I'd love to see:)

Kayla
 

DogLuvvr

New Member
Joined
May 9, 2008
Messages
70
Likes
0
Points
0
#10
The biggest thing I was teaching at 7-8 weeks was respect for me. Which includes, not bitting me, not jumping, and listening when I talk.

The other biggy I was teaching is Here. I think thats the thing I've worked on MOST with him the 4 months I've had him so far. And of course, his name.

He was making eye contact with me the day I got him, so thats something I never worked on. It came natural, along with his recall. Wow, I couldn't BELIEVE how natural that was for him.

After he'd gotten those down pretty well, I started lie down. Because with what he'll be doing when he gets older, he will need a lie down more than a sit. And plus when I say "Lie down" I don't want him to sit before he went down, I wanted an immediant respose (drop down) to "lie down".

Then I started teaching sit. Along with Leave It.

And now, he's 6 months old :lol-sign:

Oh, and just a few days ago I added "That'll Do" (I know I'm pretty late on this command).

I really don't think you can "teach to much" at 8 weeks. It's more of, how much the pup can handle at that age. And only you can know that, because you should know your pup. Blaze, he could handle alot at 8 weeks. We did alot of recall training in that 8-12 week period.

I like this quote....It applies to putting a pup on stock, but it can still apply to training your pup:
I have never heard of the "That'll Do" command. When do you use it?

Also, great quote. I like that!
 

DogLuvvr

New Member
Joined
May 9, 2008
Messages
70
Likes
0
Points
0
#11
Kayla, great post ^^^^^^:hail:
Agreed, those life lessons should be taught as well, lol funny how when teaching those the OB comes along too :)
I love the It's Your Choice Game for any age but it is very effective with pups as well.
I teach bite inhibition a bit differently than many folks, of course its only part of the total bite inhibition training. First I make sure that the pup has had at least an intro to clicker training. Then I hold a soft toy in my left hand, wanting the pup to grab on and pull (they pull I don't), then I slip my finger into their mouths, not pinching, not poking or pushing onto gums etc, its not about force or pain. Pups are always surprised to find my finger going in to their mouth and they always start to avoid it (even just a little bit) at that point I click and reward. The pups quickly learn that when they feel flesh to let go of the toy and avoid the finger.
This has also worked very well for older pups that have not learned bite inhibition and boundries in playing.
Thanks for the tip! I'll be sure to keep this one in mind too. :)
 

smkie

pointer/labrador/terrier
Joined
Dec 16, 2004
Messages
55,184
Likes
35
Points
48
#13
shoot soon as i knew their ears were open i would "toot" on the whistle when i knew it was close to feeding time to wake them up, i would be there right beside mama. I don't remember ever teaching mary a darn thing but i must have, and very early too. HEr mama and daddy dog taught her as well. SHe could shake by the time she was 8 weeks old, they all knew sit and were house broken by 8 weeks. YOu just had to take them out often enough but they knew the door was the right way to go.. All lessons must be very very short, and repititious, and fun. BUt a lot of ground can be covered in those important developmental weeks. Just make sure the puppy is having a good time and don't over do anything. Your playing with an infant.
I would think house breaking, and come would be your number one right now.
 

Kayla

New Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2006
Messages
1,421
Likes
0
Points
0
Location
Northern Alberta
#14
Not yet! He is expected to arrive next week, so I'll post LOTS of pics as soon as he gets here! :)

Yay how exciting for you, you must be estatic:) It's so great to see you've gotten alot of wonderful advice on how to make the most of your first few weeks and months togther, as it can really go a long way down the road.

Like I said it's things I really kick myself for not paying more attention to such advice ( the de sensitizing to handling by myself and other people) when he was younger. Now I've spent every breakfast and dinner for the last two weeks with him handling him and getting others too, but progress is soo much slower so just take it from someone who vets aren't necessarily excited to see show up to their clinic, get it done properly while they are little.

Take care:)

Kayla
 

Lizmo

Water Junkie
Joined
Aug 1, 2006
Messages
17,300
Likes
0
Points
0
Location
AL
#15
I have never heard of the "That'll Do" command. When do you use it?

Also, great quote. I like that!
Oh, "That'll Do" is a stockdog command. Some will use it to mean "your done, leave the stock alone" and some (like myself) will use it to mean "you are done, come to me".

ETA: LOL, what breed pup are you getting? :eek:
 

Members online

No members online now.
Top