Treats are used to train the behavior, to say "yes! that was right, here is your reward for making the right choice". Once the dog fully grasps and has learned what you are teaching you start not always giving the treats. To do this you "prefect" the command. For instance you are training let's say lie down. The dog knows to lie down when you say it so you C/T (click and treat) every time she does. Well now that she knows what it means fully you can start making the response better. Only C/T for the faster downs. Once she is downing quickly you can only C/T for the square downs (she's not rocked on one hip) if you want them to be square downs. So once you have perfected her downs by only C/T the really good ones (you can still praise not perfect downs but no C/T, just "good girl!") you can start doing random treats. So this is when you stop clicking, clicking is for teaching the command, it's prefect at this point so you don't need the click, she already knows what you are asking for. So ask for a down and when she does give her a treat, then again and then on the third time praise her for the down but don't treat, then again but treat this time, next time don't treat, again don't treat, then ask for four downs and treat every time. Basically set up a RANDOM (follow NO pattern) treat schedule so she does not know when the treat will come. Eventually start doing less and less treating and more and more regular praising (it's important that even when you treat, you praise as well) without the treat. Soon she will not be expecting a treat every time and her response to your commands will be very automatic and formed out of habit that she will probably not think about the treat at all but will simply respond out of habit or because she genuinely enjoys your praise.
Now also keep in mind if you use treats inappropriately the dog will think they are part of the command. So instead of thinking the cue for down is *mom stands and says "down"* she will think the cue for down is "mom stands with treat in hand and says "down"* and when you say "down" without a treat she'll be confused because she has not learned what that means. So for that reason it is important that treats not be visible during training but be on a table or in your pocket (clicker training is very good for this because a delay between the click and you digging the treat out of your pocket is just fine"). If you have already started having the treats visible and she has become dependent on seeing them what you do is during that time I described when you treat sometimes but not always make sure you only treat the times when the treat is not visible and have the treat visible during the times when you don't treat so she learns not seeing the treat is better than seeing it.
If you need to lure any commands (which with clicker training you might not need to lure very many at all) make sure you loose the lure quickly so it does not become part of the cue. Quickly turn the lure into a hand signal, make the hand signal less dramatic (so for luring "sit" you move the hand over the dog's head. Once you stop luring use the empty hand in the same motion. To make it less dramatic start moving the hand less and less far over her head until she responds to a small forward arc of your hand) and then a spoken command (you say the command wait 1-2 seconds then do the hand signal then C/T. At some point in order to get the treat ASAP the dog will respond some point between the spoken command and the hand signal and that is when she is beginning to understand the word and it means soon but not yet, you can fade the hand signal).
I also suggest you get the book "The Power of Positive Dog Training" by Pat Miller because it's a great book that teaches you how to train many commands using clicker training and how clicker training works. I'm glad your looking into this, it's a LOT better than traditional punishment based methods and makes for a happier training partner who truly enjoys working with you at training.