I've spent time with a lot of really crappy ones, and two very, very nice ones (from the same breeder).
My friend lost her (well, her husband's) Berner at eleven and a half - and he was the first dog from his litter to die. I was extremely impressed with his health; right up until the last couple months he was very sound and healthy. They got a puppy not long ago from the same breeder/lines.
As far as the males being jerks - I think it's sort of relative. Although it seems many people push them as being very "golden" in personality, the well-bred ones I've met are not, and I don't think they are supposed to be. Ted was a more intense dog than that. Very lazy and quiet most of the time, but with a definite edge of protectiveness, both towards the property and his people. Probably very mild compared to a lot of breeds, but I think more than what many people expect from a dog like a Bernese. He was also a very alpha male, but in a really nice way; he would fight sometimes with intact males (he was neutered), but otherwise his presence alone took care of issues. In a pack with 5 fairly dominant females, he was sort of the voice of reason
.
I've posted these before, but this is the new guy:
I really need to get some new pictures of him!