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How do you do it?
Here is how I start.....
First with little puppies, as early as 8-10 weeks even, I start target training. I put the pup on a mat or bed, and each time they move from it, I gently put them back. Each time I put them back I use the cue word for this behavior which I will use later. This is a casual command to tell the pup to stay on one place, not necessarily one position. I say "get on your bed". Puppies generally learn this pretty quick. I generally work this during our own meal times, and the pup will be rewarded with tidbits from the plate when he does well.
Next, once the pup is walking on lead, I begin with the sit/stay.
Using a buckle collar, I will apply just enough upward pressure to the collar to keep the pup in position, but not enough to make her uncomfortable. I switch the lead to my right hand, give the stay signal with my left as I say "stay" and pivot right in front of the pup, standing toe to toe. I keep a pleasant expression and demeanor, and a close eye on the puppy. After just a few seconds, I pivot back to heel and release and praise praise praise/play with the pup. I like to release a pup from stays with something they really really like. Sometimes food rewards, sometimes a tug game, or a game of fetch, depending on what the pup likes the most.
As soon as possible I begin releasing all pressure on the lead. If the puppy makes a mistake, I gently put them back into position. I will repeat position commands (sit) but not the stay command or signal.
Generally within just a few days I am out to the end of the 6 foot lead, and begin returning around behind the dog. As I begin returning around behind, I will touch the dog on the head to prevent movement. As always, I correct any movement by repositioning the dog exactly where it started. I may begin at this point to mark incorrect behavior with an ahah or uhoh.
I encourage eye contact and attention during all stays. As soon as a pup is routinely staying for 15 to 30 seconds, I being putting the lead down. I walk back in to food reward the pup at random intervals. At this point I also incorporate arms folded in front of me to indicate to the dog he has made a mistake. The only time I return to the dog with arms folded is if a mistake has been made. I still do not correct except to mark with ahah occasionally, or with the folded arms.
When the pup gets beyond 30 seconds, and is being mostly successful, I will introduce mild distractions. One of my favorite ones is teaching the pup to resist tension on the lead. Other things at this time to introduce are working in different locations, people walking by, etc.
I continue to work on attention, and on building time and distance. I also introduce very short periods of my walking out of sight early.
I work stays consistently and often. The key elements for me are not taking a dog on too fast, not correcting, never walking in to a dog with an attitude. This part I think is very important, and it is also a mistake that I find is very hard for some people to avoid. You must not walk towards your dog in an angry manner if they make a mistake. I work hard to return to my dog in the same manner each time, except for the folded arms, which only means no reward and repositioning. I never want my dogs to feel more stress than they have to during stays. Of course out of sight stays are stressful for most dogs. It is something they have to learn to deal with if you ever want to get to Open obedience.
I really love training stays. A reliable stay makes a dog a lot easier to work, travel, walk, and have fun with.
I am sure I have forgotten lots of things, but this is the basic way I start puppies and young dogs on learning stay.
At the same time I am teaching/training/working stays, I am also teaching and working consistently on attention, front, and heel positions. These 4 things to me are the basic blocks that you must have to get to advanced obedience.
So let's hear how you do it!
Here is how I start.....
First with little puppies, as early as 8-10 weeks even, I start target training. I put the pup on a mat or bed, and each time they move from it, I gently put them back. Each time I put them back I use the cue word for this behavior which I will use later. This is a casual command to tell the pup to stay on one place, not necessarily one position. I say "get on your bed". Puppies generally learn this pretty quick. I generally work this during our own meal times, and the pup will be rewarded with tidbits from the plate when he does well.
Next, once the pup is walking on lead, I begin with the sit/stay.
Using a buckle collar, I will apply just enough upward pressure to the collar to keep the pup in position, but not enough to make her uncomfortable. I switch the lead to my right hand, give the stay signal with my left as I say "stay" and pivot right in front of the pup, standing toe to toe. I keep a pleasant expression and demeanor, and a close eye on the puppy. After just a few seconds, I pivot back to heel and release and praise praise praise/play with the pup. I like to release a pup from stays with something they really really like. Sometimes food rewards, sometimes a tug game, or a game of fetch, depending on what the pup likes the most.
As soon as possible I begin releasing all pressure on the lead. If the puppy makes a mistake, I gently put them back into position. I will repeat position commands (sit) but not the stay command or signal.
Generally within just a few days I am out to the end of the 6 foot lead, and begin returning around behind the dog. As I begin returning around behind, I will touch the dog on the head to prevent movement. As always, I correct any movement by repositioning the dog exactly where it started. I may begin at this point to mark incorrect behavior with an ahah or uhoh.
I encourage eye contact and attention during all stays. As soon as a pup is routinely staying for 15 to 30 seconds, I being putting the lead down. I walk back in to food reward the pup at random intervals. At this point I also incorporate arms folded in front of me to indicate to the dog he has made a mistake. The only time I return to the dog with arms folded is if a mistake has been made. I still do not correct except to mark with ahah occasionally, or with the folded arms.
When the pup gets beyond 30 seconds, and is being mostly successful, I will introduce mild distractions. One of my favorite ones is teaching the pup to resist tension on the lead. Other things at this time to introduce are working in different locations, people walking by, etc.
I continue to work on attention, and on building time and distance. I also introduce very short periods of my walking out of sight early.
I work stays consistently and often. The key elements for me are not taking a dog on too fast, not correcting, never walking in to a dog with an attitude. This part I think is very important, and it is also a mistake that I find is very hard for some people to avoid. You must not walk towards your dog in an angry manner if they make a mistake. I work hard to return to my dog in the same manner each time, except for the folded arms, which only means no reward and repositioning. I never want my dogs to feel more stress than they have to during stays. Of course out of sight stays are stressful for most dogs. It is something they have to learn to deal with if you ever want to get to Open obedience.
I really love training stays. A reliable stay makes a dog a lot easier to work, travel, walk, and have fun with.
I am sure I have forgotten lots of things, but this is the basic way I start puppies and young dogs on learning stay.
At the same time I am teaching/training/working stays, I am also teaching and working consistently on attention, front, and heel positions. These 4 things to me are the basic blocks that you must have to get to advanced obedience.
So let's hear how you do it!