Please help me help my dog listen
- Thread starter acer925
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Put treats in your pocket or in a treat pouch. Leash in one hand, clicker in the other, and hand a treat to the dog with the clicker hand. They even have handy wrist or finger attachments for the clickers so you don't have to worry about dropping it.
The added bonus is that if you're not holding the treats, they're less likely to become a bribe. There should be a definite distinction between the click and reaching for the treats.
The added bonus is that if you're not holding the treats, they're less likely to become a bribe. There should be a definite distinction between the click and reaching for the treats.
I hold the leash in the hand on the side the dog walks.... So if your dog is on your right side, the leash should be in your right hand. I also hold my clicker in my leash hand (with a wriststrap), and treat with the opposite hand. Make sure that you're giving the treat right at the spot where you want your dog's nose to be... for example, don't give the treat in front of your belly button, as he has to step in front of you to get it.
Either way will work. But most dogs do better if you pick one method and stick with it.
I cannot stress enough, though, that the most important thing here is that you focus on treating him often for doing the right behavior. Stopping and turning around are both simply things to do to get him back to your side so that you can reinforce again.
Yes, this. LOTS of new trainers tend to hold treats in front of their dogs' noses to get them to walk nicely, but this doesn't teach the dog anything but follow the treat..... he won't know what to do when you don't have the treat.
Either way will work. But most dogs do better if you pick one method and stick with it.
I cannot stress enough, though, that the most important thing here is that you focus on treating him often for doing the right behavior. Stopping and turning around are both simply things to do to get him back to your side so that you can reinforce again.
Yes, this. LOTS of new trainers tend to hold treats in front of their dogs' noses to get them to walk nicely, but this doesn't teach the dog anything but follow the treat..... he won't know what to do when you don't have the treat.
I hold my leash in the opposite hand of the side the dog is on. If the dog is on my left, I hold the leash in my right. With these little dogs, it doesn't matter, but with a big dog, I think you have less chance of being yanked off balance if the dog decides to lurch. It just makes for a steadier base for better balance. (?) When you have a dog like my Doberman, 90 lbs of muscle, you learn really fast how to stay on your feet at those times when he was "naughty" until he learned to be civilized. :rofl1: But anyway, I hold the excess in my hand near to the dog. So, I'm still in the habit of holding it on the opposite side. I do switch the dogs from the left side of me to the right, just to keep them on their toes and be adaptable for when it may be necessary.
If I'm using a clicker, like I have been lately with Jose` on his mild dog reactivity issue, I hold the clicker in my left hand (if he's on my left) along with the excess leash. And have the treats in my right pocket. I reach in my pocket as I click or just after. He knows they're there, no doubt. But it doesn't matter. He is still learning that other dogs mean let the good times roll. lol.
I've also been using it to get him to come away from something he's been sniffing. Sometimes he wants to linger there forever and has been resisting coming along. So, I'll tell him, "let's go, we'll stop again soon." LOL. When he does, he gets a c/t. (sometimes)
Anyhow, with practice, you'll get more coordinated with it. And mistakes happen. Just the other day, I, by accident clicked when he was sniffing dog poo and thinking about eating it.
Woops, my finger slipped. I still had to give him a treat since I clicked. I just forgot about it and figured, I'll be more careful next time. No biggy. He's still going to eat poo if he gets the chance unless I'm watching and tell him "leave it."
If I'm using a clicker, like I have been lately with Jose` on his mild dog reactivity issue, I hold the clicker in my left hand (if he's on my left) along with the excess leash. And have the treats in my right pocket. I reach in my pocket as I click or just after. He knows they're there, no doubt. But it doesn't matter. He is still learning that other dogs mean let the good times roll. lol.
I've also been using it to get him to come away from something he's been sniffing. Sometimes he wants to linger there forever and has been resisting coming along. So, I'll tell him, "let's go, we'll stop again soon." LOL. When he does, he gets a c/t. (sometimes)
Anyhow, with practice, you'll get more coordinated with it. And mistakes happen. Just the other day, I, by accident clicked when he was sniffing dog poo and thinking about eating it.
Woops, my finger slipped. I still had to give him a treat since I clicked. I just forgot about it and figured, I'll be more careful next time. No biggy. He's still going to eat poo if he gets the chance unless I'm watching and tell him "leave it."
I hold my leash in the opposite hand of the side the dog is on. If the dog is on my left, I hold the leash in my right. With these little dogs, it doesn't matter, but with a big dog, I think you have less chance of being yanked off balance if the dog decides to lurch. It just makes for a steadier base for better balance. (?) When you have a dog like my Doberman, 90 lbs of muscle, you learn really fast how to stay on your feet at those times when he was "naughty" until he learned to be civilized. :rofl1: But anyway, I hold the excess in my hand near to the dog. So, I'm still in the habit of holding it on the opposite side. I do switch the dogs from the left side of me to the right, just to keep them on their toes and be adaptable for when it may be necessary.
If I'm using a clicker, like I have been lately with Jose` on his mild dog reactivity issue, I hold the clicker in my left hand (if he's on my left) along with the excess leash. And have the treats in my right pocket. I reach in my pocket as I click or just after. He knows they're there, no doubt. But it doesn't matter. He is still learning that other dogs mean let the good times roll. lol.
I've also been using it to get him to come away from something he's been sniffing. Sometimes he wants to linger there forever and has been resisting coming along. So, I'll tell him, "let's go, we'll stop again soon." LOL. When he does, he gets a c/t. (sometimes)
Anyhow, with practice, you'll get more coordinated with it. And mistakes happen. Just the other day, I, by accident clicked when he was sniffing dog poo and thinking about eating it. Woops, my finger slipped. I still had to give him a treat since I clicked. I just forgot about it and figured, I'll be more careful next time. No biggy. He's still going to eat poo if he gets the chance unless I'm watching and tell him "leave it."
If I'm using a clicker, like I have been lately with Jose` on his mild dog reactivity issue, I hold the clicker in my left hand (if he's on my left) along with the excess leash. And have the treats in my right pocket. I reach in my pocket as I click or just after. He knows they're there, no doubt. But it doesn't matter. He is still learning that other dogs mean let the good times roll. lol.
I've also been using it to get him to come away from something he's been sniffing. Sometimes he wants to linger there forever and has been resisting coming along. So, I'll tell him, "let's go, we'll stop again soon." LOL. When he does, he gets a c/t. (sometimes)
Anyhow, with practice, you'll get more coordinated with it. And mistakes happen. Just the other day, I, by accident clicked when he was sniffing dog poo and thinking about eating it.
Woops, my finger slipped. I still had to give him a treat since I clicked. I just forgot about it and figured, I'll be more careful next time. No biggy. He's still going to eat poo if he gets the chance unless I'm watching and tell him "leave it."
LoL very funny story. He's getting the hang of it, just went for our 2nd walk and it was better than the first. He's still in his own world, never looks at me and sometimes doesnt here me when I start walking and tell him to walk lol..thats partially my fault for not being loud enough. I just wish he would pay less attention to noises or anything he just looks for trouble. But I guess that comes with this training, I hope. I dont mind as long as he doesnt bark anyway.
Also, I've been letting him walk ahead of me as long as the leash still has some slack. Personally I dont care if he wants to walk ahead of me as long as the leash is loose, I dont think thats an issue but correct me if it is. The only thing is when he is walking nicely infront of me, I have to call him back to get the treat. But even if he was walking well right next to me I would have to get his attention to give the treat. Thanks
That sounds fine. I let mine go a little ahead, behind or over to the side a bit, if they don't pull.
As far as not paying enough attention, that can be improved by practicing "watch me" at home or someplace where there are fewer environmental competitors. So, spend a few short sessions in a boring room, then out in the yard. How I teach "watch" is to hold a treat in both hands. Let the dog know they're there, hold my hands out to my side, away from my body a bit. The dog will look at your hands, stare, stare, stare....Just wait. Eventually, he'll look up at your face to see what the heck? LOL. That's the exact moment you click and treat. I don't use a verbal cue until he's onto the game. Then start adding "watch" or whatever you want to use just as he looks up at you. Then....after that's getting good, try using your verbal cue to elicit the behavior.
But again...if the dog is too distracted with new behaviors you're trying to teach and he's unable to pay attention, it means you need to make it easier for him to succeed....like reducing other things that are competing with you for your attention or going back to where he was successful and working back up again. Sometimes we tend to move ahead too soon with too high an expectation.
As far as not paying enough attention, that can be improved by practicing "watch me" at home or someplace where there are fewer environmental competitors. So, spend a few short sessions in a boring room, then out in the yard. How I teach "watch" is to hold a treat in both hands. Let the dog know they're there, hold my hands out to my side, away from my body a bit. The dog will look at your hands, stare, stare, stare....Just wait. Eventually, he'll look up at your face to see what the heck? LOL. That's the exact moment you click and treat. I don't use a verbal cue until he's onto the game. Then start adding "watch" or whatever you want to use just as he looks up at you. Then....after that's getting good, try using your verbal cue to elicit the behavior.
But again...if the dog is too distracted with new behaviors you're trying to teach and he's unable to pay attention, it means you need to make it easier for him to succeed....like reducing other things that are competing with you for your attention or going back to where he was successful and working back up again. Sometimes we tend to move ahead too soon with too high an expectation.
It has nothing to do with how loud you are. I teach my dogs to listen even when I whisper.
It has everything to do with your dog not knowing that he needs to pay attention to you.
In addition to Dober's advice, I'd also suggest that you don't start walking until he is paying attention to you. If you walk, even when he doesn't care at all where you are or what you're doing, you're just rewarding him for not having to pay attention.
When are you starting training lessons with a positive reinforcement trainer??
It has everything to do with your dog not knowing that he needs to pay attention to you.
In addition to Dober's advice, I'd also suggest that you don't start walking until he is paying attention to you. If you walk, even when he doesn't care at all where you are or what you're doing, you're just rewarding him for not having to pay attention.
When are you starting training lessons with a positive reinforcement trainer??
Think of it this way: Take an adult person that has never been to a big city, is it not reasonable that they are looking around, not comfortable, maybe worried, and responding by at least looking a sounds that they are not use to? Same works for someone that have always lived in a large city, take them to the country and they can be uncomfortable with the extreme quiet, jump at the night noises and many of them dislike the absolute darkness of the night sky. Depending on that person, they may never be completely comfortable and they may or may not learn to cope.
Absolutely he is looking for trouble, not to engage in it and start it, but every instinct he has is telling him to be ready, to be scanning with all his senses, to be able to respond with either flight, freeze or fight.
Therefore, your dog that has lived a very secluded life up to this point and has not been trained on leash has now had the rules changed and his life completely turned upside down.
It is completely reasonable that your dog be uncomfortable, distracted, worried and reactive (reacting or shutting down) to his new surroundings and it will not be an overnight fix. Hell well trained, well socialized dogs that are put into that situation for the first time are expected to be distracted and not expected to be perfect in responding to their training. Which is why those of us that do train dogs or take them to a lot of places, go to a great deal of effort to train our dogs in all situations. Because it is a well known fact that most dogs do not generalize very well.
Agreed, your dog can hear you but they are probably so flooded with everything else that they can't respond very well.
Absolutely he is looking for trouble, not to engage in it and start it, but every instinct he has is telling him to be ready, to be scanning with all his senses, to be able to respond with either flight, freeze or fight.
Therefore, your dog that has lived a very secluded life up to this point and has not been trained on leash has now had the rules changed and his life completely turned upside down.
It is completely reasonable that your dog be uncomfortable, distracted, worried and reactive (reacting or shutting down) to his new surroundings and it will not be an overnight fix. Hell well trained, well socialized dogs that are put into that situation for the first time are expected to be distracted and not expected to be perfect in responding to their training. Which is why those of us that do train dogs or take them to a lot of places, go to a great deal of effort to train our dogs in all situations. Because it is a well known fact that most dogs do not generalize very well.
Agreed, your dog can hear you but they are probably so flooded with everything else that they can't respond very well.
That sounds fine. I let mine go a little ahead, behind or over to the side a bit, if they don't pull.
As far as not paying enough attention, that can be improved by practicing "watch me" at home or someplace where there are fewer environmental competitors. So, spend a few short sessions in a boring room, then out in the yard. How I teach "watch" is to hold a treat in both hands. Let the dog know they're there, hold my hands out to my side, away from my body a bit. The dog will look at your hands, stare, stare, stare....Just wait. Eventually, he'll look up at your face to see what the heck? LOL. That's the exact moment you click and treat. I don't use a verbal cue until he's onto the game. Then start adding "watch" or whatever you want to use just as he looks up at you. Then....after that's getting good, try using your verbal cue to elicit the behavior.
But again...if the dog is too distracted with new behaviors you're trying to teach and he's unable to pay attention, it means you need to make it easier for him to succeed....like reducing other things that are competing with you for your attention or going back to where he was successful and working back up again. Sometimes we tend to move ahead too soon with too high an expectation.
As far as not paying enough attention, that can be improved by practicing "watch me" at home or someplace where there are fewer environmental competitors. So, spend a few short sessions in a boring room, then out in the yard. How I teach "watch" is to hold a treat in both hands. Let the dog know they're there, hold my hands out to my side, away from my body a bit. The dog will look at your hands, stare, stare, stare....Just wait. Eventually, he'll look up at your face to see what the heck? LOL. That's the exact moment you click and treat. I don't use a verbal cue until he's onto the game. Then start adding "watch" or whatever you want to use just as he looks up at you. Then....after that's getting good, try using your verbal cue to elicit the behavior.
But again...if the dog is too distracted with new behaviors you're trying to teach and he's unable to pay attention, it means you need to make it easier for him to succeed....like reducing other things that are competing with you for your attention or going back to where he was successful and working back up again. Sometimes we tend to move ahead too soon with too high an expectation.
But now the only thing he looks forward to is the walk, if he doesnt get to go he gets very annoying (whimpers, cant sit still, doesnt even eat!). Do you think its ok if I worked on the watch me command in the house and also on walks when he starts to get the hang of it? I know I started it a bit backwards.
You could do something else with him instead of a walk... Like a long game of fetch in the backyard, a training session, a car ride, a kong, his meal in a food dispensing toy, a positive reinforcement training class which he enjoys, etc. Just because you started it backwards doesn't mean you have to continue it backwards.... Just start over.
quick question, would rollerblading with him at the park be a bad idea? I know he would be a better dog if he got more physical excercise but I dont want to confuse him with between the leash training and going rollerblading with me with his leash on. I would not go near any dogs or people it would be strictly for the excercise. Just wondering if he would make the distinction between we are walking and training and we are running. Thanks
If you're rollerblading with a leash on, you're still leash training.
You can give it a shot, as long as you keep all the same rules - no pulling on the leash, dog has to keep pace with you, etc. Personally, I wouldn't rollerblade with a dog that pulls a lot, I feel like it's asking for an injury to happen. But I'm not very good at rollerblading, either.
You can give it a shot, as long as you keep all the same rules - no pulling on the leash, dog has to keep pace with you, etc. Personally, I wouldn't rollerblade with a dog that pulls a lot, I feel like it's asking for an injury to happen. But I'm not very good at rollerblading, either.
Im gonna wait on that, as much as I want to do it, I dont think it will be good for his learning. I started reading Click to Calm and doing the training with him. He is making improvement in walking, its very tedious though, and it does wear on the patience but Im glad I see improvement. I think I may be giving too much verbal commands though and making it more exhausting than it has to be. When he starts pulling, I've been saying back, making him sit next to me, sometimes making him look at me. Then I say walk, and I start praising and click right away b/c he's next to me and the leash is loose..untill it gets tight again, then repeat. Also in the house im clicking and treating everytime he looks at me and I give the verbal cue "watch me" so he can make the connection. Soon we will try that out in the backyard.