Gentle Leader
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Gentle leaders work great for pullers. You may get a few responses to use a prong collar. At first those dont work as well. If its hard for you to hold on then I would use a gentle leader. Do it all the time even when he starts walking real nice without trying to take it off. LOL
Make sure you read the directions on how to fit it and size it to your dog.
A good fit is necessary for it to work properly.
I use that at first with my dogs then move on to OB work and make them heel without a leash.
I have had great sucess with that.
Good luck to you!
Make sure you read the directions on how to fit it and size it to your dog.
A good fit is necessary for it to work properly.
I use that at first with my dogs then move on to OB work and make them heel without a leash.
I have had great sucess with that.
Good luck to you!
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The Gentle Leader is the only thing that works for my Beagle, who is a champion puller. It changed her into different dog after only a few day. Be prepared for the dog to fight it at fist though. It is such a different feel that a traditional collar that it can be like leashtraining all over again. I would strongly recommend one, but see if you can find someone to help you fit it and show you the basics of using it. I wish I had had someone to show them to me 
That poor dog. That's pathetic. I hope he's not still doing that. He probably submitted and got use to it.
I don't like them at all. They can cause severe spinal injuries and when a dog is bucking, lunging or pulling suddenly, that leverage is downright dangerous....all coming off a focal point of the muzzle. Not only that, but something around the muzzle is sheer domination in dog body language. It puts the dog into a constant state of submission, not a healthy place to be.
I agree with Tessa. Somewhere on here Dr2little has recommended a very good sounding harness which prevents pulling with none of the physical or psychological risk of damage...probably what Tessa was talking about. I forget the name.
No tool or device will train your dog. It will only force him to be unable to pull. There is nothing better than training using proper methods, starting out in an area with no distrations and working up gradually. But if you have to use something like that so he can have a walk, then that's better than no walk. But in the meantime....other times, you could learn how to train him to walk nicely on a loose leash. You can do a search on the forum.
I don't like them at all. They can cause severe spinal injuries and when a dog is bucking, lunging or pulling suddenly, that leverage is downright dangerous....all coming off a focal point of the muzzle. Not only that, but something around the muzzle is sheer domination in dog body language. It puts the dog into a constant state of submission, not a healthy place to be.
I agree with Tessa. Somewhere on here Dr2little has recommended a very good sounding harness which prevents pulling with none of the physical or psychological risk of damage...probably what Tessa was talking about. I forget the name.
No tool or device will train your dog. It will only force him to be unable to pull. There is nothing better than training using proper methods, starting out in an area with no distrations and working up gradually. But if you have to use something like that so he can have a walk, then that's better than no walk. But in the meantime....other times, you could learn how to train him to walk nicely on a loose leash. You can do a search on the forum.
Doberluv said:
I agree with Tessa. Somewhere on here Dr2little has recommended a very good sounding harness which prevents pulling with none of the physical or psychological risk of damage...probably what Tessa was talking about. I forget the name.
The two options that I like best (but again are still only for temporary control, not training) are the Halti brand no pull harness with the leash attachment on the front and the newtrix easyway collar (newtrix.ca). I absolutely agree with Doberluv with respect to the Gentle leader and Halti head collars, the Newtrix has a totally different design. It is still a head collar and does go over the muzzle and head but because it works on oposition reflex and the leash attaches to both the regular collar and the back of the head collar, the muzzle part is much more comfortable without the risks associated with the chin control designs (halti and gentle leader). As with any new tool, habituation has to be done slowly, with tons of praise and patience and no device should ever be used on a walk until the dog is clearly comfortable wearing it. I always recommend that my clients put the new tool on, for only a few minutes each time and pair it with fun things such as games, toys and treats and only remove it when the dog is not fussing with it. This should happen several times a day for as many days as it takes to see the dog get totally excited when he sees the head collar.
Like Doverluv say's, these tools for some dog's may mean the difference between no walks and many walks so in those cases I'm all for them. Also, I have some clients who's dogs far outweigh them and these tools can ensure safety for all especially in the social enviornment of today where dog/public safety is such a hot button. Train, train, train...and if you must use a control tool these are some that are kind, gentle and very effective.
The two options that I like best (but again are still only for temporary control, not training) are the Halti brand no pull harness with the leash attachment on the front and the newtrix easyway collar (newtrix.ca). I absolutely agree with Doberluv with respect to the Gentle leader and Halti head collars, the Newtrix has a totally different design. It is still a head collar and does go over the muzzle and head but because it works on oposition reflex and the leash attaches to both the regular collar and the back of the head collar, the muzzle part is much more comfortable without the risks associated with the chin control designs (halti and gentle leader). As with any new tool, habituation has to be done slowly, with tons of praise and patience and no device should ever be used on a walk until the dog is clearly comfortable wearing it. I always recommend that my clients put the new tool on, for only a few minutes each time and pair it with fun things such as games, toys and treats and only remove it when the dog is not fussing with it. This should happen several times a day for as many days as it takes to see the dog get totally excited when he sees the head collar.
Like Doverluv say's, these tools for some dog's may mean the difference between no walks and many walks so in those cases I'm all for them. Also, I have some clients who's dogs far outweigh them and these tools can ensure safety for all especially in the social enviornment of today where dog/public safety is such a hot button. Train, train, train...and if you must use a control tool these are some that are kind, gentle and very effective.
I have to agree with Doberluv about the gentle leader. Forcing a dog into submission constantly can really mess them up - I've seen dogs driven to neurosis because of it. Some dogs, like my Border Collie, handle it just fine, but it can ruin others.
I've never used a no-pull harness even on large shelter dogs that pull. I honestly don't like tools that merely control and don't train. I used a flat buckle collar or nylon slip collar and would either refuse to move until the dog let the leash go slack, or I would do the "180" method and turn around when the dog tried to pull. It usually only took about 5 minutes for the dog to figure out what I wanted it to do and then the rest of the walk was lovely. Training really isn't too hard.
I've never used a no-pull harness even on large shelter dogs that pull. I honestly don't like tools that merely control and don't train. I used a flat buckle collar or nylon slip collar and would either refuse to move until the dog let the leash go slack, or I would do the "180" method and turn around when the dog tried to pull. It usually only took about 5 minutes for the dog to figure out what I wanted it to do and then the rest of the walk was lovely. Training really isn't too hard.
RD said:
I have to agree with Doberluv about the gentle leader. Forcing a dog into submission constantly can really mess them up - I've seen dogs driven to neurosis because of it. Some dogs, like my Border Collie, handle it just fine, but it can ruin others.
I've never used a no-pull harness even on large shelter dogs that pull. I honestly don't like tools that merely control and don't train. I used a flat buckle collar or nylon slip collar and would either refuse to move until the dog let the leash go slack, or I would do the "180" method and turn around when the dog tried to pull. It usually only took about 5 minutes for the dog to figure out what I wanted it to do and then the rest of the walk was lovely. Training really isn't too hard.
I've never used a no-pull harness even on large shelter dogs that pull. I honestly don't like tools that merely control and don't train. I used a flat buckle collar or nylon slip collar and would either refuse to move until the dog let the leash go slack, or I would do the "180" method and turn around when the dog tried to pull. It usually only took about 5 minutes for the dog to figure out what I wanted it to do and then the rest of the walk was lovely. Training really isn't too hard.
Also, since you work at a shelter and have experience with rehoming dog you know that all to often people don't have the physical strength to hold a large more powerful dog on a regular buckle collar. Personally, I only accept a regular buckle collar 4-6 foot leash in class and it's my priority to train rather than simply control but again not everyone is willing or able to spend the time and the dog is the one who ultimately suffers void of these other gentle control options. Far better than using choke chains, pinch collars, chin control head collars and no pull harness that rely on pain to work.
B
You know what? First of all I was slightly kidding about his rodeo act it wasn't nearly that bad. Second if you would like to walk my dog that has the prey drive of a lion past a flock of birds on a normal collar more power to you.
Frankly, I am a little sick of some people's holier than thou attitudes on here. Just because not everyone in this world uses the same training devices as yourselves then in your mind it is absolutly the wrong way. I did not just buy a gentle leader and throw it on him. I took him to a well respected behaviorist around here who fit it on him and showed me how to properly handle him. I do not use it for pulling as a matter of fact I use it to break his distraction when approaching birds or other prey.
You definetly have the right to give your opinions on any subject you would like as I respect your bank of knowledge, but you do not have the right to tell me about my poor dog and how pathetic the situation is. Those opinions you can keep to yourself because I have no room for that.
I agree Brock, I did alot of research in to the gentle leader system, and found it very highly recomended. The only problem I saw with the snout issue was with dogs that had physical dispostion towards that sort of problems.
As for the body harness, I don't think that will have the same effect as the gentle leader. One of the reasons it works so well is that controls the head, not the body.
As for the forced subbmission, what is a person supposed to do? Ask the dog for submission? My pup bucked and faught, but not more than a few moments, even ceaser milan forces subbmission from dogs, and says that a dog should always be in a "calm submissive state of mind."
tools have been used in dog train since the begining, if you say this one is inhumaine, that is your right, but i agree that it was getting a bit deep in here.....
As for the body harness, I don't think that will have the same effect as the gentle leader. One of the reasons it works so well is that controls the head, not the body.
As for the forced subbmission, what is a person supposed to do? Ask the dog for submission? My pup bucked and faught, but not more than a few moments, even ceaser milan forces subbmission from dogs, and says that a dog should always be in a "calm submissive state of mind."
tools have been used in dog train since the begining, if you say this one is inhumaine, that is your right, but i agree that it was getting a bit deep in here.....
I've never really used one, but the very good shelter where I got my dogs gave me one with my current dog. She'd been there for about four months and they were training her and were using the GL to teach her to walk nicely on the leash. So I think the GL is an acceptable tool. I just never used it b/c I'm so used to dogs pulling, and it bothered me more trying to learn how to use the GL than it did to just get pulled hither and yon. The real key, whatever you use, is to get them to listen to your voice and for you to stay alert to everything that they may use as a reason to get out of control. If you see it first, you can let them know that you expect them not to be nuts about it.
Interesting views.
I just want to say I have yet to have any problems with a gentle leader.
I wanted to ask those who appose it if they every tried using a GL?
I have taken in Rescues who did great with the GL. I tried the prong collar before and because of my arthritis it was hard to correct a hard pulling dog.
GL is the best tool for me. Just as other people have other tools that work for them.
I personally dont have the strength in my hands anymore to use any other no pull tool and I do not like the harnesses. Just a personal preference.
I suggest trying different tools out to see what works best for you.
I just want to say I have yet to have any problems with a gentle leader.
I wanted to ask those who appose it if they every tried using a GL?
I have taken in Rescues who did great with the GL. I tried the prong collar before and because of my arthritis it was hard to correct a hard pulling dog.
GL is the best tool for me. Just as other people have other tools that work for them.
I personally dont have the strength in my hands anymore to use any other no pull tool and I do not like the harnesses. Just a personal preference.
I suggest trying different tools out to see what works best for you.
T
And, Ceaser Milan is no expert dog trainer, IMHO. If he were, he wouldn't have to use force and intimidation to train dogs.
I find it funny how people can expect dogs to behave perfectly every single moment of their lives. We humans, who are supposedly the smarter, superior being, cannot even do this. Who are WE to ask that from our dogs? *end rant*
If he were, he wouldn't have to use force and intimidation to train dogs. I find it funny how people can expect dogs to behave perfectly every single moment of their lives. We humans, who are supposedly the smarter, superior being, cannot even do this. Who are WE to ask that from our dogs? *end rant*
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I've used gentle leader/halti head halters numerous times and they've always been successful. I don't run into the whole "my dog is miserable" problem, not sure why others have. I can put one on any of my dogs here and they fully accept it with very little problem. Used properly, I think they're a good tool.
I hear a lot about the damage they can cause, but I've never seen any or even talked to anyone who has actually had damage happen. It all seems to be third or fourth hand (or farther) anecdotes. Every collar can cause damage if used improperly.
BUT all that being said - I'd still recommend the gentle leader HARNESS instead or another type of harness with the ring for the leash at the chest. This has been a great addition to our training facility. We are seeing large dogs that owners are having a tough time with go from pulling to non-pulling with the very first time they wear the harness. It works on much the same concept as the head halter in that it turns the dog back around towards the person. But since it isn't controlling the head, there is less resistance in the dog.
Any tool only puts a band-aid on the problem if you don't do actual training though. My goal is always to be able to walk my dogs on a loose leash without having to use anything special on them, so if I use a tool like a head halter or harness or anything else, it's only to get enough response out of the dog that I can do the proper reinforcement for the behavior I want.
Melanie and the gang in Alaska
I hear a lot about the damage they can cause, but I've never seen any or even talked to anyone who has actually had damage happen. It all seems to be third or fourth hand (or farther) anecdotes. Every collar can cause damage if used improperly.
BUT all that being said - I'd still recommend the gentle leader HARNESS instead or another type of harness with the ring for the leash at the chest. This has been a great addition to our training facility. We are seeing large dogs that owners are having a tough time with go from pulling to non-pulling with the very first time they wear the harness. It works on much the same concept as the head halter in that it turns the dog back around towards the person. But since it isn't controlling the head, there is less resistance in the dog.
Any tool only puts a band-aid on the problem if you don't do actual training though. My goal is always to be able to walk my dogs on a loose leash without having to use anything special on them, so if I use a tool like a head halter or harness or anything else, it's only to get enough response out of the dog that I can do the proper reinforcement for the behavior I want.
Melanie and the gang in Alaska
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I think it's easy for people to forget about the training aspect when they start using something that produces a response they like. But in the long run, isn't it best to have a dog that knows what to do and doesn't just respond to a particular collar? So I always encourage people to remember to train and not just use tools for a quick fix.
Since I show my dogs in obedience and agility, they too need to be able to respond off-leash. The shepherds are no problem, but it can be a challenge with the independent chows! I just got back from town, where I worked both Trick (the dark shepherd) and Khana (the light chow, just 17 months old) in the parking lot of the TCBY yogurt store .. *L*. I tend to pull them out wherever I am and run them through their paces. Khana has to be on leash - she is still very distracted at times. Today the wind was blowing and there were kids across the road. She was fascinated by it all and it took a few minutes to get some focus out of her, but she finally settled down so we could do a bit of heeling. Then I brought Trick out and she was completely off-leash. She heeled, did some spins, did some tricks, and not once did I have any concern that she'd run off. Having a dog that is that consistent off-leash is just wonderful and that's my goal with all of my dogs.
But along the way, tools such as gentle leaders really help!
Melanie and the gang in Alaska
Since I show my dogs in obedience and agility, they too need to be able to respond off-leash. The shepherds are no problem, but it can be a challenge with the independent chows! I just got back from town, where I worked both Trick (the dark shepherd) and Khana (the light chow, just 17 months old) in the parking lot of the TCBY yogurt store .. *L*. I tend to pull them out wherever I am and run them through their paces. Khana has to be on leash - she is still very distracted at times. Today the wind was blowing and there were kids across the road. She was fascinated by it all and it took a few minutes to get some focus out of her, but she finally settled down so we could do a bit of heeling. Then I brought Trick out and she was completely off-leash. She heeled, did some spins, did some tricks, and not once did I have any concern that she'd run off. Having a dog that is that consistent off-leash is just wonderful and that's my goal with all of my dogs.
But along the way, tools such as gentle leaders really help!
Melanie and the gang in Alaska