bullmastiff pulls everywhere!

[dogs4dummies]

Let me give a little background:
We are currently looking at getting a bullmastiff whose owners felt forced to keep outside on a chain for years because of the dogs ability to tear everything in sight up. In order to get the dog we first need to train it to 1) be ok around other dogs 2) have house manners. This is looking like it will be a lengthy process. I have one major problem right now though, she pulls us everywhere! I'm guessing that since she basically grew up on a chain, all she knows is if she wants to get somewhere she has to pull hard enough to break the chain. She is about 4 years old, and even though she's super intelligent and loving, I just don't know the best way to train this trait out of her. I have tried walking in the backyard and when she pulls I regain control and start walking the other direction, but this has not worked at all. Please, any suggestions would be wonderful. :hail:

 

[Renee750il]

Finding a good POSITIVE trainer to help you would really be a good start, just be sure it is someone who does not subscribe to "dominance" or "alpha" or rough handling in any way. It's a terrible way to *train* a dog in the first place -- fear is a rotten replacement for love and respect -- and with a dog that's far stronger than you are it's downright stupid and dangerous.

Don't be afraid to learn to use training tools -- just learn to use them properly. I balked at using a prong collar on my Fila for quite some time, but finally got it through my head that it could be a good tool for BOTH of us and it turned out to be self-reminder for her when she got focused in on something and started to lunge.

I didn't learn so fast, though, and mucked around with my little APBT, using a regular collar, trying to teach her not to pull by stopping and reversing, over and over and over and over and all I got was a Terrier with a raw, collar rubbed neck.

One of the best tools I've ever used with any of my dogs, though, is simply a heart-to-heart, nose-to-snout conversation, liberally punctuated with affection.

 

[lizzybeth727]

Most dogs - no matter what their background was - will pull on the leash. The reason is simply because it works.... when they pull on the leash, they get to go where they want to go. I believe that many dogs really believe that that's what a leash is for: for pulling against to go where you want to go.

One very simple remedy, then, is to not let it work. If you feel any pressure on the leash, stop walking immediately (don't even let the dog take one step while pulling) and wait for the dog to release pressure on the leash before walking forward again. If you physically can't hold the dog while he's trying to pull, you could try out a front-clip harness like this one, or a head halter like this one.

 

[Maxy24]

You can try clicker training. If at any point the leash is loose (even if you caused it to be loose by changing directions and it's loose as he moves to get back in front of you) click and treat. The click, once charged (you'll need to do that before hand) will make sure the dog comes to get his treat. If you try to treat the dog without clicking first he may be too distracted to hear you trying to give him the treat and will be pulling again before he ever gets the treat. As long as he is not so overstimulated that he cannot take the treat he should start allowing slack more frequently so that he can get the treat. The goal is that he starts holding the slack for longer periods not just- slow, get treat, speed back up, repeat. If he does this give the treat every few seconds (start with one second, then two, three, five, seven, ten, etc.) as long as he keeps slack on the leash. If he goes and sniffs something or goes to the bathroom and then starts his walking up again with a loose leash click and treat. Eventually you'll get to the point where you only have to give a treat every minute or so. Then just four or five times per walk. But don't be in a rush to get there, pushing to far to soon will cause him to fail.

During this training you do not have to do anything negative when the dog pulls but if you'd like (it might speed the process) you can stop moving for a few seconds or change directions (I'd do this only if he hasn't given any slack in a while because this will cause him to gives slack as he moves from behind you to in front of you so he can get some treats as a reminder of what he's supposed to be trying to do).

I agree that if you are having issues actually controlling him (if he can drag you to another dog or person) use a no pull harness.

and you'll want to carry the treat in a treat pouch or fanny pack on your waist. Don't skimp on treats, make sure you carry a LOT so you don't run out.

 

[Doberluv]

What I would do if I were taking this dog in, is first make sure I had someplace to work with him that is safely enclosed by a good fence. I'd take the dog outside with no leash at all and walk around. I'd have a fanny pack on, loaded with tiny, tasty treats. (real chicken, steak, hot dog, white cheese) When the dog would choose to walk along with me, fairly close, I'd click or use a marker word, like "Yessss!" enthusiastically and pop him a treat. I'd keep those treats coming frequently if he stayed fairly near my side. If he went ahead or went to check something out, I wouldn't say a word, just keep on walking around. Eventually, he'll catch on that walking near my side is associated with high value rewards. I'd do this for a few days, while developing a bond with him.

ETA: Woops, I hit send by accident. Okay...continuing:

Then I'd do the same thing and add in a few distractions. Have somebody toss a stick or somewhat interesting (not too) toy and see if he chooses to merely check it out quickly and then catch up with me as I walk around the area randomly. Big reward if he comes along.

I'd work with him when it's almost meal time and he's hungry. I'd also use a super fun toy after a little spell as reward. (If he likes that. You have to find what motivates him)

Then I'd put on a leash and do the same thing...in the fenced yard. If he pulls, I'd stop and turn back the opposite way for about 10 ft. And start on that same path I just took. Repeat as needed. Remember though....all the while he's walking nicely, click/treat frequently...every few steps. These have to be pea sized treats to avoid gaining weight or even cut back on his food a tad.

Only work for short sessions, but several times a day. Stop when he's doing really well and while he's enjoying himself. You want him eager to work with you next time. Make it fun and interesting. You can use a rope toy or other favorite when he's done a good job. No punishment, no sterness...make training and working with you his favorite thing to do.

For outside of the fenced area, use a no-pull harness. (Halti Harness) And try to stay in areas of low distractions until he learns how to focus on you and walk nicely.

Look up "watch me" or focus training. I think there's even a sticky thread somewhere here for that. You can also Google Clicker Solutions. There are some good training articles in there as well.

 

[Doberluv]

If he's never been around other dogs and he has an issue with them, it is very difficult to make him be okay...not without a lot of work. If he missed out on early socialization with dogs, you will have to go very gradually with that...exposing him from big distances and reinforcing (click/treat) when he sees them, but doesn't react strongly. You may need help with that from a positive reinforcment type trainer. There are also good books on the subject.

House manners: Little by little. Remember to put things up that you don't want him to get. Get him good and tired out first before bringing him in. Supervise at all times. Reward good behavior, distract, don't be harsh for unwanted behavior. Remember, he doesn't know that grabbing your favorite couch pillow is "wrong." And you don't want to be constantly telling him "no" because that makes no sense to him and may erode your relationship with him. I know it's hard to not do sometimes. Give him alternatives, good, hard chew toys, like a Kong which you can dab with peanut butter or put yogurt in and freeze. This can keep him busy. Be sure to reward well his good behavior. Watch for it, notice it and reinforce. Calm, quiet behavior will work for him to get something he loves. If you can't supervise him, he may well become destructive. If he gets a chance to practice that awful behavior, THAT will reinforce it. You must prevent him from engaging in rotten behavior, but do it gently and smartly.

I would get a great big crate and start introducing him to it slowly. Make it a really neat place to go and chill out. Feed him in there, special treats. Leave the door open for a while, gradually increasing the pressure...ie: then close the door, but only for a few seconds, then longer etc. Use the crate, once he's acclimated and happy with it, as a tool to help potty train if he's not already. If you can't watch him, he goes in the crate, but don't keep him in there for excessively long stretches. Maybe you'll have another idea for a place for him to go when you can't supervise him. It's important to prevent accidents in the house in the first place, so frequent trips outside to potty, loads of reinforcment when he goes outside.

Obedience training is invaluable to improving general good behavior as well as the skills themselves. When a dog's mind is exercised as well as his body, he doesn't have time to make his own fun, which is usually destructive behavior. Get him into a good beginning obedience class with a reputable, positive reinforcement kind of trainer who does not rely on punishment and intimidation, but who understands behavior and how to set a dog up for success. Good luck.