Hello- newbie here- to the forum but not to dogs! About 2 weeks ago we rescued an 12 week old boxer/yellow lab mix. He's been a great puppy and is already house trained! I've been working with him on leash walking etiquette since the day we took him home and he usually does great- within what you would expect for the attention span of a 14 week old. Over the weekend he developed a habit of biting and pulling on the leash at the END of the walk- as we approach the house. He actually play growls and tries to play tug-o-war, which I know is NOT GOOD! I think he is rejoicing and getting playful after trying so hard to be good through the walk. I've sprayed the leash several times with bitter apple with no luck. I've even dropped the leash and let him run 'home' (another command we are working on) but I don't think this is the best solution, as it probably just rewards him for this behavior. I've also tried bringing a rope toy and trying to divert his attention, but that didn't work. We are just starting on the 'leave it' command. In about a month he will be through his puppy shots and can start obedience training but...any suggestions on how to handle this until then?? Much obliged!
Puppy biting leash
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Here's a couple of suggestions, little things that I've done in the past
Stop walking and completely ignore him until, no talking, eye contact, anything until he's calmed / gotten bored with it and you can divert his attention. You could also take along really yummy treats and ask for a sit to get him to stop, and then say "lets go" or whatever your walking words are
If he starts chewing and pulling again stop, and maybe give a little eh-eh...
Continue working on the leave it command... its one of the most useful ones IMO
Stop walking and completely ignore him until, no talking, eye contact, anything until he's calmed / gotten bored with it and you can divert his attention. You could also take along really yummy treats and ask for a sit to get him to stop, and then say "lets go" or whatever your walking words are
If he starts chewing and pulling again stop, and maybe give a little eh-eh...Continue working on the leave it command... its one of the most useful ones IMO
Me Too!!
I just joined because I have the EXACT same problem!!
I have a 15 week old collie who does the SAME thing. He is VERY aggressive at the end of a walk. I can't figure out if he is just tired or angry or what but I'm concerned. He growls and pulls the leash - it can be scary. He also does this when I have him on a lead around the house. He is a BIG nipper and biter and we are working very hard to correct this behavior through time outs because collies HATE to be away from their family. It has been slow going. Everything is worse when he is tired and often when we put him in timeout he falls fast asleep.
In the beginning, he used to nip at my pants and feet all of the time when I came into the kitchen - this has gotten better, but he is till VERY BOSSY, especially to my children. We sometimes douse ourselves with bitter apple to keep him away!! We want to be with him but know we must not tolerate this behavior.
He (Colt) is a VERY intelligent puppy!! He was housebroken VERY quickly and knows commands such as SIT, DOWN, COME, BED, although he will ignore these commands when overly excited. He is also very loving and loves to cuddle on my lap. I walk him 2-3 times a day and we love to play with him. I use a halti when we walk to curtail pulling but he seems to be accepting of this and is walking quite nicely on a leash. I am a stay at home mom so he gets plenty of love and attention. My children love him but are afraid of him when he jumps and bites.
I would appreciate any input, especially from other collie owners. I am concerned but my instincts tell me he will outgrow these bad behaviors and we should just keep sending him to timeout when he bites and growls. Am I in denial? Could I have an aggressive dog? What should I do?
I just joined because I have the EXACT same problem!!
I have a 15 week old collie who does the SAME thing. He is VERY aggressive at the end of a walk. I can't figure out if he is just tired or angry or what but I'm concerned. He growls and pulls the leash - it can be scary. He also does this when I have him on a lead around the house. He is a BIG nipper and biter and we are working very hard to correct this behavior through time outs because collies HATE to be away from their family. It has been slow going. Everything is worse when he is tired and often when we put him in timeout he falls fast asleep.
In the beginning, he used to nip at my pants and feet all of the time when I came into the kitchen - this has gotten better, but he is till VERY BOSSY, especially to my children. We sometimes douse ourselves with bitter apple to keep him away!! We want to be with him but know we must not tolerate this behavior.
He (Colt) is a VERY intelligent puppy!! He was housebroken VERY quickly and knows commands such as SIT, DOWN, COME, BED, although he will ignore these commands when overly excited. He is also very loving and loves to cuddle on my lap. I walk him 2-3 times a day and we love to play with him. I use a halti when we walk to curtail pulling but he seems to be accepting of this and is walking quite nicely on a leash. I am a stay at home mom so he gets plenty of love and attention. My children love him but are afraid of him when he jumps and bites.
I would appreciate any input, especially from other collie owners. I am concerned but my instincts tell me he will outgrow these bad behaviors and we should just keep sending him to timeout when he bites and growls. Am I in denial? Could I have an aggressive dog? What should I do?
Can you take along a very fun toy, like a rope toy that he never gets to have any other time and hide it in your jacket or pocket? Then when he starts getting wild with the leash, entice him to take the rope instead and play with that? In either case, he needs to learn "give" (seperate lesson at another time) so that he will give you things on cue. You can teach that using various objects and trade him for a treat. And give him back the object and repeat. Reward him for giving you things.
Personally, if he's only doing it at the end of the walk, I wouldn't worry too much. He's a very young pup and in time he'll give that up. Its nice that he likes his leash so much. (You'll think I'm awful, but I actually encourage Lyric to play with his leash when I'm on a walk with him....after he's done some wonderful thing. And he's 3 yrs. old! It's so fun for him, he shakes his head and prances around. But he gives when I ask him. And then we get back onto the next task.) I just play with that dog so much. I'm as bad as he is. LOL.
All these things will come along in time. Let your pup be a pup too, while he's learning. It's good that he enjoys his walks, training and his leash.
Personally, if he's only doing it at the end of the walk, I wouldn't worry too much. He's a very young pup and in time he'll give that up. Its nice that he likes his leash so much. (You'll think I'm awful, but I actually encourage Lyric to play with his leash when I'm on a walk with him....after he's done some wonderful thing. And he's 3 yrs. old! It's so fun for him, he shakes his head and prances around. But he gives when I ask him. And then we get back onto the next task.) I just play with that dog so much. I'm as bad as he is. LOL.
All these things will come along in time. Let your pup be a pup too, while he's learning. It's good that he enjoys his walks, training and his leash.
Bumhouse...is this your first dog? It's unlikely that a 15 week old pup is aggressive. I am guessing that you're confusing normal puppy behavior with aggression. Puppies don't come already knowing how to live with human rules. That's the way puppies play. They greet eachother by jumping up. So, you don't want to be harsh but you can show him the human way of greeting, he sits first.
What are your reactions to the pup when he is acting wild? If he continues to get any kind of attention when he bites and jumps, this will reinforce this behavior. All playtime needs to end immediately and no further attention of any kind. If he knows sit, then when you see him have the intent of jumping or biting, ask him to sit and reward for that. Give alterantive chew things to bite on.
Teach him that only sitting nicely will get him attention and even a treat. But by jumping up and nipping...all fun will stop and you'll turn your back away.
Everyone in the family must do the same and it must be very consistant....never once wavering from this. He will continue to try to get a payoff by these antics because they have worked for him up to now. You need to convince him that that behavior will not work to get him anything he likes. Dogs do what works so remove any possibility of a payoff for this behavior. Preventing or intercepting him from jumping or biting is better than waiting until he already does it. Be ready to give him an incompatible alternative....something he can't do and jump at the same time, such as sit or something he is allowed to chew on and praise him when he is chewing on his own stuff.
Is he getting plenty of romping outside and enough exercise? Get him a little tired out a few times a day. Run through his skills several times a day for a very short period. Even here and there, ask for a sit or down. Let him learn what behavior gets him the good stuff and what doesn't. Stay with it. Most puppies who seem out of control aren't getting enough exercise (although you don't want to do more repetitive stuff than his bones can handle while they're growing) But plenty of free running in the yard is fine.
So, mind and body work, showing him what you do want and reinforcing it with something he reeeeeeeeellly loves....distracting from behaviors you don't want, giving alternatives, reinforcing those. Ignoring behaviors where the payoff is your attention...ie: jumping up, nipping. If the biting is really bad, some dogs respond to a loud yelp, as if it really hurts, then ignore him, but give him a chew toy to teeth on. Show him what he CAN chew on.
Be sure to let him know that you and your family members control his resources....the things he likes, needs or wants; food, toys, attention, getting his collar on, opening the door for him etc. He needs to earn a lot of those things by sitting first or some other trick.
If you're consistant and train him with decisiveness without harshness....consistancy and gentleness, show him what you mean, reward....he'll outgrow this. Make him trust you explicitly and he'll look up to you even more and decide that paying attention and trying to learn your ways is the only way to fly.
What are your reactions to the pup when he is acting wild? If he continues to get any kind of attention when he bites and jumps, this will reinforce this behavior. All playtime needs to end immediately and no further attention of any kind. If he knows sit, then when you see him have the intent of jumping or biting, ask him to sit and reward for that. Give alterantive chew things to bite on.
Teach him that only sitting nicely will get him attention and even a treat. But by jumping up and nipping...all fun will stop and you'll turn your back away.
Everyone in the family must do the same and it must be very consistant....never once wavering from this. He will continue to try to get a payoff by these antics because they have worked for him up to now. You need to convince him that that behavior will not work to get him anything he likes. Dogs do what works so remove any possibility of a payoff for this behavior. Preventing or intercepting him from jumping or biting is better than waiting until he already does it. Be ready to give him an incompatible alternative....something he can't do and jump at the same time, such as sit or something he is allowed to chew on and praise him when he is chewing on his own stuff.
Is he getting plenty of romping outside and enough exercise? Get him a little tired out a few times a day. Run through his skills several times a day for a very short period. Even here and there, ask for a sit or down. Let him learn what behavior gets him the good stuff and what doesn't. Stay with it. Most puppies who seem out of control aren't getting enough exercise (although you don't want to do more repetitive stuff than his bones can handle while they're growing) But plenty of free running in the yard is fine.
So, mind and body work, showing him what you do want and reinforcing it with something he reeeeeeeeellly loves....distracting from behaviors you don't want, giving alternatives, reinforcing those. Ignoring behaviors where the payoff is your attention...ie: jumping up, nipping. If the biting is really bad, some dogs respond to a loud yelp, as if it really hurts, then ignore him, but give him a chew toy to teeth on. Show him what he CAN chew on.
Be sure to let him know that you and your family members control his resources....the things he likes, needs or wants; food, toys, attention, getting his collar on, opening the door for him etc. He needs to earn a lot of those things by sitting first or some other trick.
If you're consistant and train him with decisiveness without harshness....consistancy and gentleness, show him what you mean, reward....he'll outgrow this. Make him trust you explicitly and he'll look up to you even more and decide that paying attention and trying to learn your ways is the only way to fly.
Doberluv -
Yes, this is my first dog as an adult (We did have several dogs as I was growing up, 1, in fact, a collie). Thank-you, I needed to hear that this was normal and not likely to be agression!!
I think part of the problem is consistency here as I have 3 children and, of course, this is worst with the younger ones. He will bite and jump immediately upon being near to them and they are soooo disappointed when I have to put the puppy away.
He does sit for everything and I praise and reward him for this - he is so smart that way, however, he will sit briefly for the children and when they go to reward him with a pet or a treat he goes NUTS!! Exercise is not a problem here, as a matter of fact, I think sometimes he is tired out because when I put him in timeout he crashes. It's like overstimulation.
I should mention that most of this occurs when I allow him into the family room with us. If we visit him in the kitchen where we keep him when he can not be supervised his manners are much better. Once we let him out though, he gets frenzied. Could this be too much freedom for him too soon? We really want him to be with us but he just can't settle down.
So, bad behavior occurs after a walk and when allowed in other parts of the house. We have isolated this and are really working hard to correct it. He really seems to bite with the intent to hurt not just playful but I can't believe he understands the implications of this yet. I intend to keep working at it but I just needed to hear that based on his other progress and behavior, he is not aggressive or a "psychotic pup".
P.S. If we offer him a treat to divert this behavior will he think we are rewarding him for it? He will calm down and sit for a treat but I kind of thought this was sending the wrong message....After the treat he just goes back to biting.
THANKS AGAIN!!
Yes, this is my first dog as an adult (We did have several dogs as I was growing up, 1, in fact, a collie). Thank-you, I needed to hear that this was normal and not likely to be agression!!
I think part of the problem is consistency here as I have 3 children and, of course, this is worst with the younger ones. He will bite and jump immediately upon being near to them and they are soooo disappointed when I have to put the puppy away.
He does sit for everything and I praise and reward him for this - he is so smart that way, however, he will sit briefly for the children and when they go to reward him with a pet or a treat he goes NUTS!! Exercise is not a problem here, as a matter of fact, I think sometimes he is tired out because when I put him in timeout he crashes. It's like overstimulation.
I should mention that most of this occurs when I allow him into the family room with us. If we visit him in the kitchen where we keep him when he can not be supervised his manners are much better. Once we let him out though, he gets frenzied. Could this be too much freedom for him too soon? We really want him to be with us but he just can't settle down.
So, bad behavior occurs after a walk and when allowed in other parts of the house. We have isolated this and are really working hard to correct it. He really seems to bite with the intent to hurt not just playful but I can't believe he understands the implications of this yet. I intend to keep working at it but I just needed to hear that based on his other progress and behavior, he is not aggressive or a "psychotic pup".
P.S. If we offer him a treat to divert this behavior will he think we are rewarding him for it? He will calm down and sit for a treat but I kind of thought this was sending the wrong message....After the treat he just goes back to biting.
THANKS AGAIN!!
I wouldn't use the treat to divert his attention. That's bribery. LOL. Using a treat as reward is a different thing. Set him up to succeed at performing the way you want and then reward him with the treat.
You might need to manage his behavior when he's in the living room with the kids by putting a leash on him and restraining him. When he gets too wild, keep him off the kids. Dogs can see little kids differently than they do adults...sometimes they resemble prey to the dog. Their quick movements get the dog stirred up. The kids and dog need to be supervised constantly so this behavior doesn't get reinforced and the kids taught to be quiet and calm around the dog. They can even help with your supervision in the feeding of the dog. Help them to give a command to the dog, like sit and then they can put his food down. They need to be seen also as the dog's provider and leader.
If he bites, makes contact with the skin, end ALL playtime immediately, remove him or yourselves or him from the area for a few minutes. Social isolation can be a good tool...nothing worse for a dog than to be seperated from his family. But 5 minutes is long enough, then try again. If he acts up again, remove him calmly again. There's nothing wrong in my mind with a firm verbal correction.
Be very careful not to reward him inadvertantly for this wild behavior. If you get nervous and exciteable on account of his exciteablity, that will also rub off on him more. Dogs are very affected by our moods. So try to stay calm and confident. Sometimes, like you said, they get overly stimulated, just like kids, they get punch drunk and when my pups would get that way, when they just had a good deal of exercise and they were just flat out wound up, I would put them in the crate for a quiet time alone. Over time, you can teach him what behavior will earn him the things he likes and what behavior will not give him anything he likes. It takes time and consistancy.
Also, a group puppy class would be helpful with a positive method trainer. Lots of practice on his basic obedience will help, but only for a very short session. You can make several short 5-10 minute sessions a day. When he's acting inappropriately, run him through his skills. This helps get his mind on something more constructive. Have you tried a Kong toy stuffed with a little peanut butter or yogart and frozen first? That can help keep him occupied too.
You might need to manage his behavior when he's in the living room with the kids by putting a leash on him and restraining him. When he gets too wild, keep him off the kids. Dogs can see little kids differently than they do adults...sometimes they resemble prey to the dog. Their quick movements get the dog stirred up. The kids and dog need to be supervised constantly so this behavior doesn't get reinforced and the kids taught to be quiet and calm around the dog. They can even help with your supervision in the feeding of the dog. Help them to give a command to the dog, like sit and then they can put his food down. They need to be seen also as the dog's provider and leader.
If he bites, makes contact with the skin, end ALL playtime immediately, remove him or yourselves or him from the area for a few minutes. Social isolation can be a good tool...nothing worse for a dog than to be seperated from his family. But 5 minutes is long enough, then try again. If he acts up again, remove him calmly again. There's nothing wrong in my mind with a firm verbal correction.
Be very careful not to reward him inadvertantly for this wild behavior. If you get nervous and exciteable on account of his exciteablity, that will also rub off on him more. Dogs are very affected by our moods. So try to stay calm and confident. Sometimes, like you said, they get overly stimulated, just like kids, they get punch drunk and when my pups would get that way, when they just had a good deal of exercise and they were just flat out wound up, I would put them in the crate for a quiet time alone. Over time, you can teach him what behavior will earn him the things he likes and what behavior will not give him anything he likes. It takes time and consistancy.
Also, a group puppy class would be helpful with a positive method trainer. Lots of practice on his basic obedience will help, but only for a very short session. You can make several short 5-10 minute sessions a day. When he's acting inappropriately, run him through his skills. This helps get his mind on something more constructive. Have you tried a Kong toy stuffed with a little peanut butter or yogart and frozen first? That can help keep him occupied too.
Thanks again Doberluv...
We are doing many of the things you have suggested which makes me feel good like we are going in a positive direction.
I have been looking into training classes but get so much conflicting info. from trainers - everyone thinks their method is best - from private to group, which type of collar, verbal vs. physical correction, positive reinforcement, etc. It is overwhelming!!! Meanwhile I feel like the clock is ticking. I really don't think I am doing so bad on my own - my concern is that he won't exhibit this behavior during class and will look like the model student!! Sounds like my kids?! :lol-sign:
While I believe training classes could be beneficial, I sometimes think they don not take the individual breed into consideration when teaching. What I would really like is to find a collie breeder willing to teach me but I have had no success.
So here I am feeling very lucky to have found this forum!!:hail: My puppy is so tired today because he had his last set of shots this morning so I don't think we will be working much today. I am still trying to figure out how to post pictures on here because he really is handsome!! Thanks again for all of your encouragement...
We are doing many of the things you have suggested which makes me feel good like we are going in a positive direction.
I have been looking into training classes but get so much conflicting info. from trainers - everyone thinks their method is best - from private to group, which type of collar, verbal vs. physical correction, positive reinforcement, etc. It is overwhelming!!! Meanwhile I feel like the clock is ticking. I really don't think I am doing so bad on my own - my concern is that he won't exhibit this behavior during class and will look like the model student!! Sounds like my kids?! :lol-sign:
While I believe training classes could be beneficial, I sometimes think they don not take the individual breed into consideration when teaching. What I would really like is to find a collie breeder willing to teach me but I have had no success.
So here I am feeling very lucky to have found this forum!!:hail: My puppy is so tired today because he had his last set of shots this morning so I don't think we will be working much today. I am still trying to figure out how to post pictures on here because he really is handsome!! Thanks again for all of your encouragement...
Even more important than individual breed, although that should be considered with their little quirks, keep in mind that these are all domestic canids and they all are very similar and especially how they learn. Operant conditioning is how all mammals learn and that, I recommend you study because it is really the foundation to build a training program. Positive method trainers use operant conditioning and classical conditioning methods. They tend to go easy on the punishment end of things, at least where sterness is concerned. Too much punishment can shut a dog down and prevent him from participating and wanting to learn. It has other detrimental side effects. When people get more of a feeling how dogs learn and think, they see that we so easily and often project our own values and thoughts onto dogs when they aren't thinking that way at all. So, there are huge miscommunications going on. A lot of punishment and force prevents a dog from figuring things out on his own. Positive method training is not being permissive, by no means. But it is encouraging a dog to think and learn what to do instead...kind of like with your kids and a puzzle. If you put the thing together for them, they don't learn or get any better on the next puzzle. If you help them just a tad, get them started and let them think, they will figure it out and develop confidence and an ability to think that way and do subsequent puzzles better and better.
A group class is a wonderful way to socialize your dog. They learn how to do a few things in some distractions, get use to being around other dogs so they're not so naive about greeting eachother later on. Its a ton of fun for both owner and dog too. And you'll learn some new things. It makes the dog disciplined with a lot of different scenarios. From here you can even go onto a canine good citizen class, where your dog earns a certificate. This is a great thing and homeowners insurance companies are beginning to love this idea. The class helps you stay motivated and disciplined, where sometimes, otherwise people tend to get a little lax. I know I do at times.
So, I recommend that and a few books you might enjoy. I don't know how much time you have with little ones around. That can be difficult. But, one is Culture Clash by Jean Donaldson, another: Don't Shoot the Dog, by Karen Pryor. Another good one is The Power of Positive Training, by Pat Miller. Another one is The Other End of the Leash, by Patricia McConnnell. Those books could really, really make a difference.
I am glad to encourage you. LOL. I know how rough puppies can be. I had a monster of a puppy, my lovely Doberman who finally got civilized. I love this dog and he is wonderfully behaved. So, there is hope for you too. LOL.
A group class is a wonderful way to socialize your dog. They learn how to do a few things in some distractions, get use to being around other dogs so they're not so naive about greeting eachother later on. Its a ton of fun for both owner and dog too. And you'll learn some new things. It makes the dog disciplined with a lot of different scenarios. From here you can even go onto a canine good citizen class, where your dog earns a certificate. This is a great thing and homeowners insurance companies are beginning to love this idea. The class helps you stay motivated and disciplined, where sometimes, otherwise people tend to get a little lax. I know I do at times.
So, I recommend that and a few books you might enjoy. I don't know how much time you have with little ones around. That can be difficult. But, one is Culture Clash by Jean Donaldson, another: Don't Shoot the Dog, by Karen Pryor. Another good one is The Power of Positive Training, by Pat Miller. Another one is The Other End of the Leash, by Patricia McConnnell. Those books could really, really make a difference.
I am glad to encourage you. LOL. I know how rough puppies can be. I had a monster of a puppy, my lovely Doberman who finally got civilized. I love this dog and he is wonderfully behaved. So, there is hope for you too. LOL.
update- puppy biting leash
Thank you for all your great suggestions! What I ended up doing was- go out and buy a chain leash! Riley (my puppy) doesn't like to chew on it. He still jumps up at the end of the walk but now I tell him to sit, then jog over to the run area where he knows I will throw the ball for him. This seems to redirect his energy. I'm sure that once he outgrows this puppy behavior I will miss it! We are starting group 'puppy kindergarten' classes in 2 weeks. I love the forum and have found many good ideas on it alread!
Thank you for all your great suggestions! What I ended up doing was- go out and buy a chain leash! Riley (my puppy) doesn't like to chew on it. He still jumps up at the end of the walk but now I tell him to sit, then jog over to the run area where he knows I will throw the ball for him. This seems to redirect his energy. I'm sure that once he outgrows this puppy behavior I will miss it! We are starting group 'puppy kindergarten' classes in 2 weeks. I love the forum and have found many good ideas on it alread!
Update
UPDATE -
While We have made lots of progress in the nipping and biting areas thanks to all of your suggestions and the really good articles by Ian Dunbar - I'm not going anywhere with the angry leash biting thing at the end of the walk or play. I think it is getting worse.
I've decided the puppy is doing this because he has such a great time he does not want it to end and he gets angry at me for ending it. He grabs the leash, my pants, tries to move in front of me - anything to keep it going. If I say sit or down he will listen because he knows that will prevent us from going inside!! (soooo smart!!).
The truth is, I can't stay outside and play - walk is walk and play is play and they happen at different times because of time constraints. He does the same thing after playtime too. It has to end sometime.
I have tried to lure him with treats and toys but it is really not helping. What I end up doing is holding the leash away from me so he doesn't hurt me and taking steps whenever he calms down for a second. Eventually, as we get close to the door he gives in and voluntarily goes inside but sometimes his angry behavior lasts for a minute or so after we return - I usually ignore him and he stops.
This is really the final issue with this pup - otherwise he is doing great. Should I just let it go as "puppy" stuff and he'll outgrow it?
UPDATE -
While We have made lots of progress in the nipping and biting areas thanks to all of your suggestions and the really good articles by Ian Dunbar - I'm not going anywhere with the angry leash biting thing at the end of the walk or play. I think it is getting worse.
I've decided the puppy is doing this because he has such a great time he does not want it to end and he gets angry at me for ending it. He grabs the leash, my pants, tries to move in front of me - anything to keep it going. If I say sit or down he will listen because he knows that will prevent us from going inside!! (soooo smart!!).
The truth is, I can't stay outside and play - walk is walk and play is play and they happen at different times because of time constraints. He does the same thing after playtime too. It has to end sometime.
I have tried to lure him with treats and toys but it is really not helping. What I end up doing is holding the leash away from me so he doesn't hurt me and taking steps whenever he calms down for a second. Eventually, as we get close to the door he gives in and voluntarily goes inside but sometimes his angry behavior lasts for a minute or so after we return - I usually ignore him and he stops.
This is really the final issue with this pup - otherwise he is doing great. Should I just let it go as "puppy" stuff and he'll outgrow it?
sorry to hear you are still having issues
I'm sorry to hear you are still having issues with your puppy at the end of the walk. Especially since I started this thread and my problem has resolved pretty well! In reading your post, I can sense your frustration and even anger at your puppy's behavior. In the past it has helped me to remind myself he is a dog, not a human. Dogs do not think or get motivated like humans. There may be some other entirely different cause for what you see as an 'angry' reaction.
Try this: bring along something noisy when you go for a walk. Maybe a can filled with pebbles or marbles and taped up so they do not spill, or a couple of cow bells- anything that will make a loud noise when dropped. When he starts his routine drop the noisemaker behind him (don't hit him with it!). If you can do it so he can't see you doing it good, but that might not be possible. The noise will startle him which hopefully have 2 effects: 1. He will stop what he is doing to either avoid the scary thing or investigate it and 2. He will learn to associate jumping, biting the leash and clothes etc with something that startles him. Dogs HATE surprises. Vary the noisemaker so he does not become used to it- maybe a soda can one day and another type of can or some bells a few days later.
A related idea would to bring a squirt bottle of water and squirt him when he starts acting up. This is a little closer to punishment, but not really. Depending on the dog and the weather you might not want to do this- for instance I live in New England and it is getting quite nippy during morning and evening walks, so I wouldn't want to subject my short haired boxer mix to getting wet.
You might try just picking him up suddenly. My puppy hates to be picked up, even now, and it takes all the fight/play out of him. Pick him up and give him a loving hug! Another simple thing that worked for me was to end my walk with the dog on my left side squeezed between me and the cars in the driveway (or garage wall, or tree...). If he tries to jump or get in front he couldn't get much of a launch with a small area to work in. Also, try getting a chain leash. It worked wonders for me and Riley (my puppy). (Well, he chewed through the leather handle in the leash, but that is another story...)
Try not to make this an issue between you and your dog. He is too young to be trying to take control. Control issues will affect your relationship with your animal for years to come so, if you find yourself grinding your teeth or getting tense, stop and think "I'm the one with the big brain here."
Good luck!
I'm sorry to hear you are still having issues with your puppy at the end of the walk. Especially since I started this thread and my problem has resolved pretty well! In reading your post, I can sense your frustration and even anger at your puppy's behavior. In the past it has helped me to remind myself he is a dog, not a human. Dogs do not think or get motivated like humans. There may be some other entirely different cause for what you see as an 'angry' reaction.
Try this: bring along something noisy when you go for a walk. Maybe a can filled with pebbles or marbles and taped up so they do not spill, or a couple of cow bells- anything that will make a loud noise when dropped. When he starts his routine drop the noisemaker behind him (don't hit him with it!). If you can do it so he can't see you doing it good, but that might not be possible. The noise will startle him which hopefully have 2 effects: 1. He will stop what he is doing to either avoid the scary thing or investigate it and 2. He will learn to associate jumping, biting the leash and clothes etc with something that startles him. Dogs HATE surprises. Vary the noisemaker so he does not become used to it- maybe a soda can one day and another type of can or some bells a few days later.
A related idea would to bring a squirt bottle of water and squirt him when he starts acting up. This is a little closer to punishment, but not really. Depending on the dog and the weather you might not want to do this- for instance I live in New England and it is getting quite nippy during morning and evening walks, so I wouldn't want to subject my short haired boxer mix to getting wet.
You might try just picking him up suddenly. My puppy hates to be picked up, even now, and it takes all the fight/play out of him. Pick him up and give him a loving hug! Another simple thing that worked for me was to end my walk with the dog on my left side squeezed between me and the cars in the driveway (or garage wall, or tree...). If he tries to jump or get in front he couldn't get much of a launch with a small area to work in. Also, try getting a chain leash. It worked wonders for me and Riley (my puppy). (Well, he chewed through the leather handle in the leash, but that is another story...)
Try not to make this an issue between you and your dog. He is too young to be trying to take control. Control issues will affect your relationship with your animal for years to come so, if you find yourself grinding your teeth or getting tense, stop and think "I'm the one with the big brain here."
Good luck!
Thanks for all the great suggestions!! I will try them...
We just got back from our afternoon walk as a matter of fact and he did the same thing again. The only thing I don't plan on trying is picking him up because he will bite at me if I do this!! He got a time out when we got home.
I will try the noise and water though, that might work.
I do have a chain leash, but he will bite this too.
I'm convinced he just doesn't want to come back home but you are right - I can't make this a control issue. I NEVER continue the walk or play when he does this so hopefully, no matter what I try, he will learn the biting and flopping around like a fish in front of me means walk/playtime is OVER!!
THANKS
We just got back from our afternoon walk as a matter of fact and he did the same thing again. The only thing I don't plan on trying is picking him up because he will bite at me if I do this!! He got a time out when we got home.
I will try the noise and water though, that might work.
I do have a chain leash, but he will bite this too.
I'm convinced he just doesn't want to come back home but you are right - I can't make this a control issue. I NEVER continue the walk or play when he does this so hopefully, no matter what I try, he will learn the biting and flopping around like a fish in front of me means walk/playtime is OVER!!
THANKS
let us know what happens
Let us know what happens. Have you brought him to obedience training? I wonder if a trainer might have some insights on what is going on. I'm quite sure yours is not the first or only puppy in history to pull this act!
If you afraid to pick him up because of biting, you should be concerned. I read Brian Kilcommons' book "Good Dogs Great Owners" and he says the first time you are afraid of your dog consult a trainer or behaviorist. I'm not one to over react but if you are afraid of him as a puppy, what will happen when he is a fully grown 'teenager' at 10 months and truly testing you?
Have a good weekend!
Let us know what happens. Have you brought him to obedience training? I wonder if a trainer might have some insights on what is going on. I'm quite sure yours is not the first or only puppy in history to pull this act!
If you afraid to pick him up because of biting, you should be concerned. I read Brian Kilcommons' book "Good Dogs Great Owners" and he says the first time you are afraid of your dog consult a trainer or behaviorist. I'm not one to over react but if you are afraid of him as a puppy, what will happen when he is a fully grown 'teenager' at 10 months and truly testing you?
Have a good weekend!
Holly can get like this at times too. She will bite her leash when she is inside and I have her leashed to me, and if we are outside and she wants to go inside and I want her to go potty. When inside and she is leashed I will distract her and then give her an exceptable chew toy. When we are outside I will stop moving and she will eventually go to the end of her leash and try to force me to to move but I will stay still and eventually she will give up and come over by my side and look at me and wait for a command. She still isn't quite used to a leash though. Maybe try one of those slip leads so you don't have to attach anything to your dog's collar. Holly used one of these for a couple days and now I lost it . She liked it a lot better than her leash and collar. I would definetely look into a positive training puppy class though. I am going to one of those with Holly just because it is important for socializing. Also the trainer is there to listen to your problems and help you find a solution. There are other people in the classes too so they may be able to offer some help. This sounds like something you should look into for your puppy.
. She liked it a lot better than her leash and collar. I would definetely look into a positive training puppy class though. I am going to one of those with Holly just because it is important for socializing. Also the trainer is there to listen to your problems and help you find a solution. There are other people in the classes too so they may be able to offer some help. This sounds like something you should look into for your puppy.
Here's a couple of suggestions, little things that I've done in the past
Stop walking and completely ignore him until, no talking, eye contact, anything until he's calmed / gotten bored with it and you can divert his attention. You could also take along really yummy treats and ask for a sit to get him to stop, and then say "lets go" or whatever your walking words are If he starts chewing and pulling again stop, and maybe give a little eh-eh...
Continue working on the leave it command... its one of the most useful ones IMO
Stop walking and completely ignore him until, no talking, eye contact, anything until he's calmed / gotten bored with it and you can divert his attention. You could also take along really yummy treats and ask for a sit to get him to stop, and then say "lets go" or whatever your walking words are
If he starts chewing and pulling again stop, and maybe give a little eh-eh...Continue working on the leave it command... its one of the most useful ones IMO
Thanks for such suggestion..