new to the forum not new to breeding

Dizzy

Sit! Good dog.
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#61
People will come round, they just like things done properly and will poke and poke and poke and poke and poke at you until they see that ;)

It's like an initiation lol
 

corgipower

Tweleve Enthusiest
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#62
not everyone uses the correct word when describing things. i know i dont.
Neither do I.
Nor do I have a problem with being questioned for posting a poor choice of words.

Thanks Bogart lol I guess I have to be a member of peta to belong here everyone is in the bashing mode lmao I guess bravado meaning their stance when confronted head on.
We wouldn't be very welcoming if you were a member of PETA.:rolleyes:

I haven't seen much bashing in this thread. I've seen people questioning. If you dislike being questioned about your breeding choices, then you picked the wrong forum.

We're very passionate about dogs here. Many of us have no issues with creating a new breed, or even breeding mixes without working to make a breed from it or whether or not a breed is recognized by kennel clubs. But when someone posts about their breeding, we do question them.
 

Danefied

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#63
Contrary to the PETA implication, I don't have an issue with breeding, nor do I have an issue with creating a new breed, IF you can show me that there is not a breed that already that does the job you claim yours do, and IF you are breeding with purpose and with a plan.

What do you want the dogs to look like?
What temperament are you shooting for?
What jobs do you want the dogs to do, and how do you ensure that you're testing them in this capacity? ie: If they are to be family dogs too, have you placed any puppies in a family and how did they do? If you want them to herd or drive bulls, how do you test them, what are your EXACT criteria?

Otherwise you're just dicking around and throwing dogs out there without a plan or purpose. THAT I find irresponsible at best ;)

BTW, what happens to your dogs who don't make the cut in your breeding program? If you place them in homes, what kind of contract and screening do you do for potential homes? Or do you just put a nice price tag on your "rare" breed and hand them over to whoever's check clears?
 

poacher

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#64
hi danefied ok here it goes
my dogs should look like this
males 120ibs standing 24-26 inches at the withers
females 20ibs less 24-26 inches at the withers
wide broad head short muzzle no shorter the 2 inches
free breathing no pinched nostrals
they must breed free and whelp free
width should be half of the hieght
length should be no longer then 1 and a third of the height
neck should be set high on the shoulders and short
if you want i can post my breed standard lol
my dogs shouldn't show aggression unless guarding their territory
should be aloof with strangers
have a high game drive when hunting
great stamina and very loyal
all my dogs go to us hog outfitters in lola texas for hunt and guide training
we train and test all our dogs here for bulls and cattle norman sanders a great k-9 trainer works here everyday with different dogs testing and training them from 12 weeks of age to 2 years old
and also us hog outfitters does train my dogs on deer which is an easy transition to moose.
my family all have some of my dogs my sister has 2 which are really good with my neices which are 4 and 9 years old
my parents have 2 of my dogs which love and my other sister has one so yes i do place my dogs with my family uncles aunts cousins and so on.
I've never sold any of these dogs and none will be for sale until I'm happy with the breed
my dogs should be drovers, hunters, guardians, sentries, and most of all companions
and they do all of that naturally with little training.
 

poacher

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#65
The ideal centurion dog is a loyal,
courageous dog of medium size with a large
powerful head and stout muscular body.

centurion dogs are athletic and most
importantly of very good health, males are free
breeders and females are free whelpers. The centurion dog
is devoid of all breathing
issues and is capable of enjoying outdoor activity
without concern except in extreme heat or cold.

The temperament is very stable and trustworthy
making them a loyal companion, capable protector, hunter, drover, sentry
and the ultimate family member.

centurion dog thrive on pleasing their
owners and are very trainable.

Their lifespan is between 10 and 14 years.

Head : Large and high, moderately sunken
between the eyes (medial furrow).
The circumference of the head should be equal to
or greater than the dog's height at the shoulder. A
narrow head or one that appears too small for the
body is a fault.


Ears : Rose ears set well on the sides of the
head are preferred. Dropped ears are acceptable
as long they are small, not “hound like”. Full
pricked ears that stand up on top of the head
should be considered a serious fault.


Muzzle : Broad, deep and short with moderate
wrinkling. The bite is undershot with the bottom
jaw turning up noticeably. Lower canines should
not protrude. Muzzle too long (more than 3
inches), scissor bite or even bite are disqualifying
faults. Muzzle should be no shorter than 2”.
Wry jaw is a disqualifying fault.

Eyes : Wide apart and of moderate size. Any
color is acceptable. However, odd eyes (one dark,
one blue or light) should be considered
unpreferred. Misshapen or bugged eyes are a
serious fault. Lacking pigment around the eyes is
undesirable. Crossed eyes or non-symmetrically
shaped eyes are a disqualifying fault.

Nose : Broad with open nostrils (nares) with no
sign of air restriction. The nose should not be
pushed up between the eyes. From the stop to the
end of the nose must be at least two inches The nose should be a solid color. Lacking
pigment is a serious fault. A nose lacking all
pigment is a disqualifying fault.




Neck : Short to medium in length and very
muscular flowing into the shoulders and should not
be set on the dog so it appears to stop at the
shoulders.

Chest : Ribs should be well sprung (rounded) and
the chest wide and deep.
Depth of chest should be at least to the elbows.
A hollow or narrow chest (slab sided) should be
considered a serious fault.


Back : Males should appear square and
balanced. Females should appear similar with
consideration given for body length. Short with a
very slight rise from the shoulders to a slight drop
in the croup is preferred. A level back is
acceptable as long as the tail does not come
straight off the top of the back.

Shoulders : Shoulders should be well laid back
with significant angulations to allow for good
movement. Straight shoulders are a fault.

Legs : Forelegs should be straight and wide
apart, neither bowing out nor turning in. There
should be significant bone substance. Elbows
should be relatively close to the body. Lacking
bone and substance is very undesirable. Elbows
that are loose or “fiddle fronts” are a disqualifying
fault. “East / West” forelegs are a serious fault.

Rear legs should exhibit significant bend of stifle
so to allow for good movement.
They should be well muscled. Straight or “posty”
rear legs are a serious fault.
Cow hocks are a disqualifying fault.

Movement : Dogs should have a balanced gait
that drives off the rear and is complimented by
reach allowing the dog to cover ground with a
sense of power.
Dogs should single track. Pacing or crabbing is a
serious fault.

Feet : Round, tight both front and rear, and the
pasterns should be strong.
Weak pasterns and/or splayed feet are
disqualifying faults.

Height : Males - 24 to 26 inches at the shoulder.
Females - 24 to 26 inches at the shoulder.

Weight : Between 120 to 150 lbs. for females and
100 to 125 lbs. for males. Although height and
weight above the standard is to be discouraged,
there is no penalty as
long as the dog is well proportioned, otherwise
correct and balanced.

Color : Any color, except all white and merle, is acceptable
with no preference for one over another. The coat
is short. A wavy coat or a long coat is a
disqualifying fault. There should be no signs of
feathering on the legs or neck area, also a
disqualifying fault.

Tail : A pump handle tail that naturally reaches the
hock is preferred, screwed short
or a docked tails are acceptable.

Temperament : Disposition should be outgoing
and happy. While a watchful nature may be
expected at home, human aggression without
provocation is a disqualifying fault.

hope this helps you abit
 

Danefied

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#66
The ideal centurion dog is a loyal,
courageous dog of medium size with a large
powerful head and stout muscular body.

centurion dogs are athletic and most
importantly of very good health, males are free
breeders and females are free whelpers. The centurion dog
is devoid of all breathing
issues and is capable of enjoying outdoor activity
without concern except in extreme heat or cold.

The temperament is very stable and trustworthy
making them a loyal companion, capable protector, hunter, drover, sentry
and the ultimate family member.

centurion dog thrive on pleasing their
owners and are very trainable.

Their lifespan is between 10 and 14 years.

Head : Large and high, moderately sunken
between the eyes (medial furrow).
The circumference of the head should be equal to
or greater than the dog's height at the shoulder. A
narrow head or one that appears too small for the
body is a fault.


Ears : Rose ears set well on the sides of the
head are preferred. Dropped ears are acceptable
as long they are small, not “hound likeâ€. Full
pricked ears that stand up on top of the head
should be considered a serious fault.


Muzzle : Broad, deep and short with moderate
wrinkling. The bite is undershot with the bottom
jaw turning up noticeably. Lower canines should
not protrude. Muzzle too long (more than 3
inches), scissor bite or even bite are disqualifying
faults. Muzzle should be no shorter than 2â€.
Wry jaw is a disqualifying fault.

Eyes : Wide apart and of moderate size. Any
color is acceptable. However, odd eyes (one dark,
one blue or light) should be considered
unpreferred. Misshapen or bugged eyes are a
serious fault. Lacking pigment around the eyes is
undesirable. Crossed eyes or non-symmetrically
shaped eyes are a disqualifying fault.

Nose : Broad with open nostrils (nares) with no
sign of air restriction. The nose should not be
pushed up between the eyes. From the stop to the
end of the nose must be at least two inches The nose should be a solid color. Lacking
pigment is a serious fault. A nose lacking all
pigment is a disqualifying fault.




Neck : Short to medium in length and very
muscular flowing into the shoulders and should not
be set on the dog so it appears to stop at the
shoulders.

Chest : Ribs should be well sprung (rounded) and
the chest wide and deep.
Depth of chest should be at least to the elbows.
A hollow or narrow chest (slab sided) should be
considered a serious fault.


Back : Males should appear square and
balanced. Females should appear similar with
consideration given for body length. Short with a
very slight rise from the shoulders to a slight drop
in the croup is preferred. A level back is
acceptable as long as the tail does not come
straight off the top of the back.

Shoulders : Shoulders should be well laid back
with significant angulations to allow for good
movement. Straight shoulders are a fault.

Legs : Forelegs should be straight and wide
apart, neither bowing out nor turning in. There
should be significant bone substance. Elbows
should be relatively close to the body. Lacking
bone and substance is very undesirable. Elbows
that are loose or “fiddle fronts†are a disqualifying
fault. “East / West†forelegs are a serious fault.

Rear legs should exhibit significant bend of stifle
so to allow for good movement.
They should be well muscled. Straight or “postyâ€
rear legs are a serious fault.
Cow hocks are a disqualifying fault.

Movement : Dogs should have a balanced gait
that drives off the rear and is complimented by
reach allowing the dog to cover ground with a
sense of power.
Dogs should single track. Pacing or crabbing is a
serious fault.

Feet : Round, tight both front and rear, and the
pasterns should be strong.
Weak pasterns and/or splayed feet are
disqualifying faults.

Height : Males - 24 to 26 inches at the shoulder.
Females - 24 to 26 inches at the shoulder.

Weight : Between 120 to 150 lbs. for females and
100 to 125 lbs. for males. Although height and
weight above the standard is to be discouraged,
there is no penalty as
long as the dog is well proportioned, otherwise
correct and balanced.

Color : Any color, except all white and merle, is acceptable
with no preference for one over another. The coat
is short. A wavy coat or a long coat is a
disqualifying fault. There should be no signs of
feathering on the legs or neck area, also a
disqualifying fault.

Tail : A pump handle tail that naturally reaches the
hock is preferred, screwed short
or a docked tails are acceptable.

Temperament : Disposition should be outgoing
and happy. While a watchful nature may be
expected at home, human aggression without
provocation is a disqualifying fault.

hope this helps you abit
Yeah, it helps.
Helps to know you copied and pasted the breed standard from the old english bulldogge and are claiming it as your own "new" breed.

Cute...
 

Dizzy

Sit! Good dog.
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#68
I copied the height - that didn't bring anything up ;)

Otherwise. Errr......... It's just a giant bulldogge.
 

Dekka

Just try me..
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#74
Like I said before I still have about another 14-16 years left before I can truely say I've locked in all the traits. As I said before apbt's haven't been in my breeding since 1999 so just food for thought if mine get banned so will all the olde english bulldogges. I will spend every dollar I have in fighting my case. Thank god my family are all lawyers lmao.
I think you miss the point of this law. It doesnt' matter if you breed a lab and it looks like a 'pit bull' it can be seized and killed unless you have registered papers proving its a lab (and they will be scrutinized carefully)

Bogart this is one of the biggest threads look at how many people viewed this in one day 570ish lmao I guess I got peoples attentions lmao even though some just wanna bash me lmao. Well tomorrow I'm off of here so anymore questions just throw them at me. This was a little marketing experiment to see how many people would want my dogs and how much interest I get. Cheers
You should really hang out here more :rofl1: One this is nothing, pics of cute dogs can get more views. But two careful what you wish for :D This sort of 'advertising' is rarely a good thing. But hey, so far the only one I have seen really bashing or insulting others is you.

Great PETA reference. Too bad that most people here hold an extreme dislike for PETA and the HSUS. Once again perhaps you should at least check out some of the topics on this forum you are on before you start making such comments.
 
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#75
Once again, why no herding breeds to get herding drive. Or why not go fila's since they can likely do everything your breed is trying to do. And they look more (based on that one pic) more athletic when it comes to working stock.
Shhhh . . . . I don't really think he sounds like he's ready for Filas, lol. You remember one of the first requirements for Fila ownership . . .
Plus, they do MORE than what he's looking for.

Nor do I think involvement would be beneficial to the Fila breed . . . .

As far as marketing research goes, this isn't terribly valid, as when conducting any kind of research one must be open to garnering information that might not be what one wanted to learn.

But best of luck with the breeding program. I hope you don't lose any of your dogs to BSL.
 
Last edited:

Whisper

Kaleidoscopic Eye
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#76
Shhhh . . . . I don't really think he sounds like he's ready for Filas, lol. You remember one of the first requirements for Fila ownership . . .
Plus, they do MORE than what he's looking for.

Nor do I think involvement would be beneficial to the Fila breed . . . .
I knew you would say that. I'm not nearly as familiar with Filas as you are of course, and although I admire them, I'm not so personally invested and protective as you are. Still, my gut clenches to think of some people not knowing what they have. :/
 
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#78
This one was particularly interesting to me:

Ears : Rose ears set well on the sides of the
head are preferred. Dropped ears are acceptable
as long they are small, not “hound likeâ€. Full
pricked ears that stand up on top of the head
should be considered a serious fault.
Interesting that you would crop ears if this is "your" standard.
 
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