Dog Site - Dog Stuff
Dog Forum | Dog Pictures

Go Back   Chazhound Dog Forum > Dog Discussions and Dog Talk Forums > Dog Training Forum


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 07-15-2008, 11:20 AM
a.baker's Avatar
a.baker a.baker is offline
Top Dog
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,130
Default leash training

I need a link on leash training to teach my new puppy how to not pull on walks. I trained my last dog pretty well but her temperament is much more calm. My puppy is a hyper hound so I know some stuff does come from him growing up but I need to start this training now. He is the perfect age for it. Thanks a lot. I already got him to some what listen to me with many outside distractions around and I can get him to walk stop run and sit on command while we walk. Its the pulling himself to death stuff LOL.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 07-15-2008, 02:24 PM
DaVinci DaVinci is offline
Top Dog
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Northern Minnesota
Posts: 412
Default

How old is the pup? I found with the little ones it is easy to just stop and walk in the other direction they get caught off guard and after you do this for a bit they will start to watch you to see what you want to do. If you use a choke collar up high up on the neck and give a quick tug Nothing FORCEFUL. this will help to re-direct their attention back to you. Hope this helps.
__________________



People grow through experience if they meet life honestly and courageously. This is how character is built.

Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 07-15-2008, 02:46 PM
Maxy24's Avatar
Maxy24 Maxy24 is offline
Top Dog
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 7,718
Default

People try several methods. One is to come to a complete stop every time the dog pulls and only start up again when the leash is slacked, this one will take a lot of patience.
Another is to go in the complete opposite direction every time the dog pulls so he learns that when he pulls he cannot go where he wanted.

I like using clicker training if your dog will take treats on a walk. Walk with the dog at your pace and ANY time the leash goes slack click and treat (you'll need to teach him what the clicker means first) make sure you do not show him the treat to bribe him into walking near you, keep them out of his site, in a fanny pack or pocket. Eventually the dog will let the leash go loose more and more often so he gets treats. Once he does it a lot start only giving treats when he stays with the leash loose for 4 or so strides. so four loose leash steps, click and treat, then count again and repeat. Slowly increase the number of strides he keeps the leash loose before he gets clicked. During the entire time the leash is loose talk to the dog in a happy voice that rises and falls but as soon as the leash goes tight stop talking to him (and of course stop clicking and treating). Eventually he should be loose leashed through almost all of the walk and if he does tighten the leash it's usually because he got caught up in something and stopping so he cannot go will make him remember you are there and then you can start up again when he looks at you. You can also cut down the treats until you do not need them anymore but continue to talk to the dog during the walk, it's good or both of you.

Whichever method you choose stick to it for a few weeks AT LEAST before trying a different one and take ANY progress as a great success and reason to stick with the chosen method for longer.

If the dog NEVER lets the leash go slack during the walk (therefore you cannot click) tell me and I'll give you more things to try if you decide to go the clicker route.
__________________
~Erin~



Thank you ~Dixie's Mom~ for my awesome siggy!
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 07-15-2008, 03:32 PM
a.baker's Avatar
a.baker a.baker is offline
Top Dog
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,130
Default

See thats it right there. He never lets there be any slack in the leash right now. I have tried stopping and resuming and he immediately pulls so hard his breathing is super loud because he is choking himself. He is a hyper dog and about 4 to 5 mths. old. He is already 28 lbs. but he is strong! If this helps at all he is a pointer breed.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 07-15-2008, 03:45 PM
DaVinci DaVinci is offline
Top Dog
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Northern Minnesota
Posts: 412
Default

Do you let him play abit before you take him walking so he has released alittle energy. Maybe you should play fetch for a 10min or so then try to walk him. You could alos add a little obedience trainging so he is getting a little mental exercise too.
__________________



People grow through experience if they meet life honestly and courageously. This is how character is built.

Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 07-15-2008, 05:15 PM
Maxy24's Avatar
Maxy24 Maxy24 is offline
Top Dog
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 7,718
Default

How many walks does he gets a day? It sounds like he needs a little more exercise. Do you have a fenced in yard or somewhere you can bring him to run off leash?

First I think you need to start all walks on a calm note. Have his leash at the door, pick it up and if he starts getting over excited put it back down and wait, if she sits or calm down pick it back up. Eventually get to the point where you can pick up and put on the leash without him leaping about (preferably with him sitting) Then open the door a crack, if he tries to bust out close it repeat until he stays while the door is open about 8-12 inches. Then quickly give him a release word (such as "release" or whatever you have used to release him from other commands) and proceed forward. If he lunges forward right outside the door turn around and walk back in and repeat. Once you get a few steps out you'll have to start with the clicking (if you want to go that route). Now, he does not ever give slack? What about when he sniffs to pee or poop? You can click those times, ANY time you reward slack will increase his chances of him giving it later.
If on a walk he hears you say something or you were to make a high pitched noise or funny noise would he glance back at you? If so click and treat for the look, and hope that eventually turns into him slowing down.

Another thing you could do is get a no pull harness which will prevent him from dragging you and I *think* may force him to give slack, I'm not sure. If it does though once again use the clicking as soon as slack is given.
Another option is using the method where you turn when the dog pulls and walk in the other direction and combine that with the clicker training, consider the time he takes catching back up after the turn as him "giving" slack and click and treat all through that catching up time and stop as soon as he hits the end. Then turn again and repeat. Slowly he should increase the amount of time he stays without pulling so he can continue getting treats.

I don't know if any of this will work for him, but it's worth a try. Tell us how it goes and if you need me to further explain what I wrote please ask, I feel like this one is just me brainstorming so it might not make too much sense (sorry)
__________________
~Erin~



Thank you ~Dixie's Mom~ for my awesome siggy!
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 07-15-2008, 07:01 PM
a.baker's Avatar
a.baker a.baker is offline
Top Dog
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,130
Default

Thanks a lot I will give it a few weeks and let you know! We really do need a fenced in yard because he wants to run and run. So your advice about the exercise is right and also about the training ideas after he gets some released energy! Thanks!
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 07-15-2008, 08:47 PM
lizzybeth727's Avatar
lizzybeth727 lizzybeth727 is offline
Top Dog
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 6,403
Default

I agree about the no pull harness. With a puppy that young, I'd NEVER use a choke chain, and if he's choking himself a collar might not be a good option either. I like the harnesses like Premier's Sure Fit harness (http://www.premier.com/View.aspx?pag.../collars/other), you can attach the leash on the ring on the dog's chest instead of the loop on the back, and have better control of him that way.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 07-15-2008, 08:47 PM
lizzybeth727's Avatar
lizzybeth727 lizzybeth727 is offline
Top Dog
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 6,403
Default

P.S. I saw harnesses like that at wal-mart this weekend for CHEAP!
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 07-15-2008, 09:54 PM
adojrts's Avatar
adojrts adojrts is offline
Top Dog
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 4,089
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by a.baker View Post
See thats it right there. He never lets there be any slack in the leash right now. I have tried stopping and resuming and he immediately pulls so hard his breathing is super loud because he is choking himself. He is a hyper dog and about 4 to 5 mths. old. He is already 28 lbs. but he is strong! If this helps at all he is a pointer breed.
One thing that all dogs/pups have in common is they have to have something to pull against. People with this problem are often holding their dog with a tight leash, even when the dog isn't pulling. Therefore it becomes a habit with both the dog and the handler. It also desensitizes both to the tight leash.

What is the most rewarding thing? For most dogs it is going for the walk!! (although this can be an exception where pups are concerned at first.)

If you have your pup on your left (doesn't matter) hold the end of the leash in your opposite hand, loop the leash once around your wrist, and have the leash come up the back of the hand between the thumb and the fingers, close your hand. Have some rewards in a pocket (loose pocket, tight jeans just don't work lol) on the same side the dog/pup is on. Start with your pup beside you, sitting is easier but standing will also work if they don't know how to sit. Give your pup all that leash, if the pup moves out of position before being asked, GENTLY bring them back to position. Note: No pulling hard, no yanking and no jerking. I teach this position first, while they remain in that position they will get their meal or rewards. Note: If I have to bring the pup/dog back into position, I don't NOT reward, this would be rewarding for leaving the position in the first place so its a win/win situation for the animal.
Once the pup/dog knows this position (you can train this in the house to start, then move to outside), begin to move forward, take one or two steps and if the pup is still in position reward, if they forge ahead gently bring them back and start again. I use the hand closest to the dog, to control the extra leash, but hold it very loose in my hand and I also reward with the same hand.
If you reward with the opposite hand it teaches the pup to move to the front of us, trying to get across for those rewards by meeting the hand.
I use a clicker, but marking the behaviour you want with a Yes! also works. You also have to in the beginning give a high rate of rewards, but that is faded as the pup learns how to walk on a loose leash.
This is very important: Do not move forward at anytime with a tight leash. Also asking them to wait in a sit at the door when going outside on leash for the walk while you go first also works very nicely.
There are also some great games for teaching a recall at meal time, focus games like Watch Me.
I NEVER use a prong or choke chain, always a flat wide collar and a 6 ft leash.
And I never, do the turn the other way sharply, I have had much better results (100% and with comfirmed adult pullers, including a 2 Irish Wolf Hounds that weigh 150+ lbs) and faster results as well.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:31 AM.


1997-2013 Chazhound Dog Site