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Old 05-29-2008, 03:49 PM
Dizzy's Avatar
Dizzy Dizzy is offline
Sit! Good dog.
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Wales
Posts: 17,760

I honestly can't remember.............

But I work on it all the time.
"Dogs are our link to paradise. They do not know jealousy or discontent. To sit with a dog on a hillside on a glorious afternoon is to be back in Eden, where doing nothing wasn't boring, it was peace."

Bodhi is the opposite of ignorance, the insight into reality which destroys mental afflictions and brings peace.

Owned by Bodhi Booglaoo and Fredington Holbein

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Old 05-29-2008, 03:57 PM
corsomom corsomom is offline
Top Dog
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 438

I just put my dogs in sit and with hand signals said stay, when they moved I put them back(I never used a leash) and I used yummy treats. I know thats not the way a trainer does it but it worked, They always stay nicely, even when we see deer, foxes, and the neighbors roaming dogs and cows.
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Old 05-29-2008, 04:07 PM
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I start VERY YOUNG with puppies, by putting them on a mat in a down, and putting them back when they move. It's very informal at first. The 2 puppies I have were both staying reliably on a down when I started my class near the first of April at 7 months old.

When I begin, as I have recently, to start the formal stay, I start with the dog at my left side in heel position. I transfer the leash to my right hand, and put gentle upward pressure on the collar to help the puppy stay in position. At the same time I say stay, give the stay hand signal with my left hand, step off on my right foot, and pivot in front of the puppy. In the beginning, I go almost immediately back to heel position. I watch the pup carefully and at the very first opportunity I begin to lessen the pressure on the lead.

Most of the time I am out to the end of the 6 foot lead within the first session.

When the pup can stay for about 30 seconds, I start building more distance and more time gradually, while introducing gentle distractions.

I return OFTEN when teaching stays to reward the dog. I don't ever approach my dog in an angry manner, nor do I give corrections for breaking stays other than putting the dog back.

As we work on stays, we also work on attention with eye contact so the dog can build attention at a distance, and stay focused on the exercise at hand.

By the time I take a dog to the ring to show, I want it almost bomb proof to the point that it can ignore demanding commands from other handlers, other dogs bouncing around the room playing fetch, all sorts of toys, balls, and etc bouncing around, food distractions, etc etc etc.

Milton is already doing short out of sight stays on the down, and working up to longer duration on the sit.

Last edited by RedyreRottweilers; 05-29-2008 at 04:55 PM.
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Old 05-29-2008, 04:51 PM
Shadow945 Shadow945 is offline
Big Dog
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 130

Shadow is way better than Beau in stopping and sitting. Mostly since we raised the dogs in the city, we made them stop and sit at every stop light when we walk them around to the grocery store or to the park, that gives him plenty of training.
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Old 05-29-2008, 06:04 PM
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adojrts adojrts is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 4,089

I work on duration first, with me being in front, in heel and on the side. I use a clicker. I do not label it with any word. When starting 'stay' work, I start while in front of the dog, pivot away so my back is to them, Click, turn back, reward. Progress to taking one step, with my back turned, click, turn back, reward. I also working walking around the dog while it remains in a sit or down in both directions. Slowly adding distance, I also jump around, throw bait bags, treats, balls, toys etc while close to the dog.
I do not make eye contact with my dogs, I don't want them to learn that eye contact and watching them like a hawk is part of the exercise or backing away never breaking eye contact. Always click when I am at the furthest point, then coming back to the dog, not clicking when I get back to the dog. If the dog breaks or moves, I reset them, I do not reward them again but go back to the last distance that the dog was successful and reward.
End goal, being able to run away, jumping around like a fool and the dog never breaks the stay, even at hundreds of feet.
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Old 05-29-2008, 09:05 PM
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elegy elegy is offline
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 7,720

constant feed method. put the dog in a sit, feed, give release word and throw the last treat so that the dog gets up. lengthen the time between treats. when i have reasonable duration, i start working on distance, and then distraction, lowering my expectations for duration.
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Old 05-29-2008, 09:19 PM
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Dekka Dekka is offline
Just try me..
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Ontario
Posts: 19,768

Once dog knows sit, I would withhold the click till the dog was offering 5-10 seconds of duration. Then I began to label it, and worked on longer and longer times. As I do competative obed, stay means stay, no moving about, vocalization etc. I think the moving off with the right foot if you are leaving the dog is a very common obed thing. I do it now without thinking.

When Dekka was 6 months she would 'offer' long sits-it was the cutest thing. She would sit in the kitchen doorway (where we often practiced) and would sit with her eyes 1/2 closed and wait.
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Old 05-29-2008, 09:43 PM
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GREAT thread, it is so interesting to read about how other people train things.

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Old 05-29-2008, 10:15 PM
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lizzybeth727 lizzybeth727 is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Central Texas
Posts: 6,403

The way I do it is pretty much a combination of three or four other people's methods!

I start by teaching a release word for sits, downs, walking through doors, etc. Always say the release before they get up.

Then to teach stay, I start with the dog in heel position, and work on duration first. I just give the cue to sit or down, no stay cue, but treat every one or two seconds usually, as long as the dog stays in position. Sometimes with really "wiggly" dogs I'll start with a handful of treats and hold my hand at their nose and pop them treats very quickly, but within one or two sessions I'll try to start fading my hand away from their nose.

Once they're staying without the cue for about 10 seconds, that's when I start adding the cue. Then after one or two sessions of adding the cue, I start walking around my dog, and then walking away. Up to this point, I'm still giving lots of treats (about one every 3 seconds), and only doing about 15-20 seconds total duration.

Once they're very good at doing a stay for about 20 seconds with me walking away to the end of the leash, then I'll start practicing the whole technique from the beginning with more distractions. Then I start proofing it - tell them to stay and then go do something so that I'm not paying attention to them, tell them to stay while I'm sitting on the floor, tell them to stay while I pick up their leash, and on and on.
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Old 05-29-2008, 10:28 PM
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CharlieDog CharlieDog is offline
Rude and Not Ginger
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Georgia
Posts: 9,420

I started with Oz after he had already developed a good sit and down, and just went from there. After he was reliable for a few seconds I started doing it in the backyard. I always try to work in a high distraction environment and always make myself more interesting than whatever else is going on. Which isn't always easy, but it results in a better stay.
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