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  #11  
Old 05-10-2008, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by corgipower View Post
She also is toddler reactive, and that is even more troublesome, because I can't very well procure a toddler to use for training.
Aw, come on, a good owner will do whatever's necessary for her dog! If you get busy now you could have your own toddler in only about three years!
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  #12  
Old 05-10-2008, 11:41 AM
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Aw, come on, a good owner will do whatever's necessary for her dog! If you get busy now you could have your own toddler in only about three years!
Um...hmmm...There's an important piece of the process missing...LOL

I was thinking more along the lines of taking the dog to a day care center...or at the playground - uh, ma'am, can I borrow your toddler so I can teach my malinois not to attack small children?

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  #13  
Old 05-10-2008, 12:01 PM
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I have a sheltie that doesn't like kids at all---they're too uncontrolled, too fast and too noisy

Last summer I took her to the playground and sat very far away and just kept feeding her treats. Then she would glance over and look back and I have her more treats.

We'll do this again this summer and I'll walk by the school when it's lunch time (with a very big, comfortable distance and I'll treat bigtime as we walk by all the kids running around)
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Old 05-10-2008, 12:06 PM
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So...what did you do when he would leap up and grab your shirt? How did you respond? And how would you manage that type of behavior with a 50ish pound dog that doesn't stick to grabbing shirts. I don't want to use corrections, but when she aims for my face, I need to stop her pretty quickly - for safety - which ends up being a mild collar pop. It works in the moment, but I do agree that it has potential for long term counter-productive effects.



What would you do if another dog got too close before the dog was able to handle it? My biggest problem with her dog reactivity is that I am in an uncontrolled environment. I work with her as much as possible within her safe distances, but in order for me to get her out for a walk, I risk running into other dogs and having a set back. I do use my own dogs when I can - I have a friend who will come over and take the corgis out while I take Nyx out. When the corgis are quiet she's fine, when they get to playing, she over stimulates. The nice thing being that I can control the distrator dogs. But all too often someone else is out with a dog or three and she loses it. The only thing I can do is drag her away and hope we didn't lose too much ground.

She also is toddler reactive, and that is even more troublesome, because I can't very well procure a toddler to use for training.
What I had to learn was what his pre-triggers were and then I had to engage his brain and body to focus on me. Teaching him to do an Auto down or Auto sit also helped a great deal. I worked at getting him over stimulated to a degree (a small degree in the beginning lol), then getting him to focus and offer the Auto's (does that make sense??). I had it easy in one sense because just the sight of the agility equipment would make him go apesh*t, so moving one or two feet in the direction of the ring would start to get him over stimulated and I was able to work with him at that point. If I had moved too close the ring, forget it, he couldn't cope.
I think the key is being able to find a stimulus that you can control, if your corgis are that then use them to teach her to control herself. It is that ol Catch 22, if you avoid the stimulus the problem doesn't go away, but if you try to work beyond her threshold the problem not only doesn't go away but it can get worse. Have you tried any of the control games such as hold a very yummy treat in your hand and she offers to back away from your hand and sit before she gets rewarded? (if you don't know this game, let me know and I'll explain it in detail). The control games, are done in a very calm relaxed placed.


When she is leaping on you and biting, what has lead up to that point?
In all honesty, I would avoid walking her until I had her under control (if possible).
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Old 05-10-2008, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by cinnamon View Post
I have a sheltie that doesn't like kids at all---they're too uncontrolled, too fast and too noisy

Last summer I took her to the playground and sat very far away and just kept feeding her treats. Then she would glance over and look back and I have her more treats.
Yea, the problem being that the parks around here are either too small and overcrowded or they are so isolated that there are no issues. I'm hoping that if I get her comfortable around a variety of other things with fast, unpredictable movement she'll be better with kids. I don't need warm and fuzzy, but I do need safe.

She's also litter reactive (as in trash on the ground blowing around), blowing leaf reactive, bird reactive, squirrel reactive...anything that moves. So I don't think it's really target specific but rather movement in general.
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  #16  
Old 05-10-2008, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by corgipower View Post

She's also litter reactive (as in trash on the ground blowing around), blowing leaf reactive, bird reactive, squirrel reactive...anything that moves. So I don't think it's really target specific but rather movement in general.
Have you tried a Flirt pole with her? Sometimes by encouraging her natual instincts and learning when to turn them on allows us to train the dog when to turn them off.
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Old 05-10-2008, 12:24 PM
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Have you tried any of the control games such as hold a very yummy treat in your hand and she offers to back away from your hand and sit before she gets rewarded? (if you don't know this game, let me know and I'll explain it in detail). The control games, are done in a very calm relaxed placed.

When she is leaping on you and biting, what has lead up to that point?
In all honesty, I would avoid walking her until I had her under control (if possible).
I haven't done backing away. I have had her sit and lie down before getting rewarded. I'd love more info on the games. I use the corgis and also a couple of toys as controllable stimuli.

When she is leaping and biting me, it's sometimes bad manners - I want my toy now!! There's been significant improvement in that area. Sometimes it's because I want her to wait a bit longer (three seconds instead of one) before getting rewarded and she doesn't agree with that idea - that is also improving (she can almost do 15 seconds now woohoo!!). The one I worry about is when it's out of redirected overstimulation...she sees a dog/bird/child/whatever and goes into her lunging and barking phase and then spins around and jumps and bites at me. I can't ignore it because she'll continue. I can't ask for a sit at that level of overstimulation because she's not receptive to input. I end up using a collar pop simply as a means of preventing her from reaching me, and then take her away until she calms down.

I wish I could avoid walking her.
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  #18  
Old 05-10-2008, 12:26 PM
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Have you tried a Flirt pole with her? Sometimes by encouraging her natual instincts and learning when to turn them on allows us to train the dog when to turn them off.
I haven't. I had never heard of a flirt pole until a couple weeks ago. I will look into the idea. That is pretty much what I'm trying to do with her toys - is build an off switch (not something malinois are known for).
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  #19  
Old 05-10-2008, 01:08 PM
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I haven't. I had never heard of a flirt pole until a couple weeks ago. I will look into the idea. That is pretty much what I'm trying to do with her toys - is build an off switch (not something malinois are known for).
I'll get an outline of the focus/self control games for you.

As for a flirt pole, I would have a bunch of steak on me, I would let her go for the flirt pole/lure and I wouldn't say a word to her, not to encourage her or call her off. The second she looked at me, I would throw her a piece of steak.
I wouldn't care how long it took of her ragging and pulling on the lure......let her go at it her hearts content but be prepared to reward her big time when she looks at you. You can progress to adding a cue for the 'off', and you can build to having her chase the flirt pole/lure.

Has she been trained to 'out' or 'give' immediately on a toy or tug? Or is it a struggle to get her to let go?
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  #20  
Old 05-10-2008, 01:19 PM
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She's got a pretty decent out finally. Occasionally she gets a bit forgetful, but it's not a struggle even then. She was taught an out through a lot of trading games and a lot of everything freezes until you out - which initially took a while - and as soon as you out we can resume playing.
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