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  #11  
Old 04-21-2008, 11:04 PM
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skittledoo skittledoo is offline
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This is definitely a very serious matter. Get professional help right away. The sooner you can start taking care of this situation the better for you and your dog.
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  #12  
Old 04-22-2008, 08:23 PM
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lizzybeth727 lizzybeth727 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kawalec View Post
A question I still need answerd is
"What do I do when he is snarling and showing his fangs?" If I touch him he bites, hard.
DEFINATELY need a professional trainer. You can also read "Mine!" By Jean Donaldson, it's a short book but has detailed instructions on how to handle resource gurading. But it does take a lot of work and a long time, and you have to be very patient or the problem will never go away.

BUT, when your dog does have something you have to take away (which should NEVER happen - keep the house impecibly clean and picked up so that he never gets anything he's not supposed to have), you can find something that's more rewarding to him - some really good treats, a favorite toy, whatever. Toss the treats/toy so that he sees them but has to move away from the forbidden item to get them. Wait until he's completely interested in the treats/toy, and then try to grab the forbidden object. If he tenses up or you start to get uncomfortable, back off because he will probably bite. And the more times he bites, the harder it will be to ultimately fix the problem.
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  #13  
Old 04-22-2008, 08:50 PM
Kawalec Kawalec is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lizzybeth727 View Post
DEFINATELY need a professional trainer. You can also read "Mine!" By Jean Donaldson, it's a short book but has detailed instructions on how to handle resource gurading. But it does take a lot of work and a long time, and you have to be very patient or the problem will never go away.

BUT, when your dog does have something you have to take away (which should NEVER happen - keep the house impecibly clean and picked up so that he never gets anything he's not supposed to have), you can find something that's more rewarding to him - some really good treats, a favorite toy, whatever. Toss the treats/toy so that he sees them but has to move away from the forbidden item to get them. Wait until he's completely interested in the treats/toy, and then try to grab the forbidden object. If he tenses up or you start to get uncomfortable, back off because he will probably bite. And the more times he bites, the harder it will be to ultimately fix the problem.
Heh. I have tried this before, he keeps the sock in his mouth and picks up the treat. Very frustrating, but worth a second chance. The NILIF seems to be the way to go for me, few of the tricks there have definitely worked.

Oh by the way, crate training would never work. Buddy is Claustrophobic.

Thankyou.
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  #14  
Old 04-22-2008, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Kawalec View Post
Oh by the way, crate training would never work. Buddy is Claustrophobic.
Your statement above is a one way ticket to failure. If you BELIEVE that you, or your dog, cannot do something, guaranteed you never will.

It is a very rare dog that cannot be crate trained. If not a crate, there are other ways to confine a dog such as exercise pens or free standing portable runs.

Your dog should have an immediately full medical workup and checkup, and you should seek PROFESSIONAL ASSISTANCE IMMEDIATELY.
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  #15  
Old 04-22-2008, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Kawalec View Post
Heh. I have tried this before, he keeps the sock in his mouth and picks up the treat. Very frustrating, but worth a second chance.
Then maybe try throwing several treats (I usually throw a handful of maybe 10-15 small treats), or throw a few big treats (hot dog slices, biscuits, anything that requires chewing).
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  #16  
Old 04-22-2008, 11:52 PM
Kawalec Kawalec is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedyreRottweilers View Post
Your statement above is a one way ticket to failure. If you BELIEVE that you, or your dog, cannot do something, guaranteed you never will.

It is a very rare dog that cannot be crate trained. If not a crate, there are other ways to confine a dog such as exercise pens or free standing portable runs.

Your dog should have an immediately full medical workup and checkup, and you should seek PROFESSIONAL ASSISTANCE IMMEDIATELY.
He starts to sweat and gets extremely frightened, he even pees himself. I'm not putting my dog threw that.
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  #17  
Old 04-23-2008, 02:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kawalec View Post
He starts to sweat and gets extremely frightened, he even pees himself. I'm not putting my dog threw that.
that's why you need to teach him to like it. you can't just lock him in there. and it won't happen overnight.

you have to be willing to get this dog the help he needs before something worse happens
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  #18  
Old 04-23-2008, 07:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kawalec View Post
He starts to sweat and gets extremely frightened, he even pees himself. I'm not putting my dog threw that.
That is separation type anxiety. Yes you can say it will be hard to get your dog over this (I had one dog that would SCREAM like a banshee in a crate, we worked on it now she feels safe and loves her crate) But think of this-what if your dog needs to spend time at a vets, what if you get hurt and someone needs to look after your dog and he needs to be crated?

In this day and age IMO its a necessary skill to have a dog that will settle in a crate. Feed all meals in the crate with the door open to begin with. Gradually shut the door, and open it before he is finished eating. Work your way till he can spend short times in the crate-give him chewies in the crate etc.
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  #19  
Old 04-23-2008, 11:47 AM
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My dog Luce hated her crate at first. She actually broke her first crate she hated it that much. But she learned to tolerate it, and she goes in willingly and without being asked. She frequently sleeps in it with the door open when she has free run of the whole house. She's comfortable there now.

It took time and patience. It took *training*. But I don't know what I would have done after her knee surgery when she had to be confined if I had not made the effort to crate train her earlier on.

What's the word on finding somebody to help you in person? Aggression is something that really cannot be well dealt with over the internet.
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  #20  
Old 04-23-2008, 04:08 PM
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I don't have a huge amount of time to write stuff out so I'll find you some links but I agree you should get a professional who uses positive methods to train.

Food guarding:

(look at Dr2little's advice): http://www.chazhound.com/forums/show...t=42722&page=2

http://www.chazhound.com/forums/show...light=resource


Jumping up:

http://www.chazhound.com/forums/show...hlight=jumping

http://www.chazhound.com/forums/show...hlight=jumping

http://www.chazhound.com/forums/show...hlight=jumping

NILIF:

http://www.chazhound.com/forums/show...ighlight=NILIF

Begging:

http://www.chazhound.com/forums/show...hlight=begging

Come command:

http://www.chazhound.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56281 (read all three pages)

teaching them not to need treats:

(look at my post): http://www.chazhound.com/forums/showthread.php?t=74718


Good Luck!
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Last edited by Maxy24; 04-23-2008 at 04:21 PM.
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