How to gain focus?

Ok, so I've now had Lola [3 1/2 yr old Bullmastiff] for just over a week. She's settling in better than I had hoped, and generally seems very relaxed. While we're at home, she is quite responsive to commands, and is eager to do things I ask for treats.

However, when we're out and I'm attempting lead training, she's really not interested! I have tried using a treat and clicker, but obviously I can't really click her for something when she won't look at me, or even accept a treat when it's directly under her nose! She isn't that bad on the lead, but the main issue really is when she sees something exciting, i.e. other dogs or children [she loves them, and parents look terrified when she starts pulling me towards them!] I find it hard to get her attention.

I don't know if I am asking too much too soon in this, as well as the fact that she has just come into season, or if I should start as I mean to go on!

She is a little nervy in some situations outside, especially going under subways or past construction vehicles/equipment [not in use!] which is not something I'm used to. Previously my other dogs have been very bold....too sure of themselves really! I've noticed she reacts similarly to horses I've dealt with, where they get worse once you drop the contact...preferring to feel a bit of support I suppose. It's in these situations also that she can get very strong, and I don't weigh much more than she does! Currently she is being walked with a harness attached to a collar with a Halti double ended lead.

Sorry for the long post, any suggestions would be appreciated

Here is how I start.

Lesson one should last about 5 minutes. Take out 25 or so of the small treats. In rapid repeated succession, take a treat, touch it to the dogs nose, immediately move it up to right beside your eye so the dog looks at your eyes, say YES!! in a happy bright tone of voice and give the treat to the dog immediately. Do this until all 25 treats are gone. If you have the time, you can do this twice or even 3 times on day one. This teaches the dog that YES means something GOOOOD is coming immediately after.

On day 2 this week, take out about the same number of treats. Put 4 or so treats in each hand, and show the dog you have food in each hand. Close your hands around the treats so the dog cannot get them. Stand naturally with your hands at your side, and watch your dog carefully. Ignore everything the dog does, and wait for him to look at your eyes. BE PATIENT. Some dogs take longer than others to figure this out. SAY NOTHING. DO NOT MOVE. The SECOND he looks at your eyes, say YES!! and feed him all the treats, first from one hand and then the other. Then get more treats in each hand, (3 or 4 in each hand), and repeat. This time when the dog looks and you say yes, give him one treat. Alternate randomly which hand delivers the treat. Practice the “looking game” for about 10 minutes two or three times per day. By the second or third day, and certainly by the end of the week, you might find your dog coming up to you and soliciting eye contact from you. This is called “throwing a behavior”, and when this happens, it means the dog has figured out that he can “make you give him a treat” by doing certain things. When this happens, the game is on, and the REAL fun begins.

If your dog begins to consistently solicit you for eye contact, you can begin naming this behavior. The name of this behavior is the dog’s name.

RedyreRottweilers has some great advice -the only thing I'd add, is use a very high value treat, not something you'd give at other times . . . like perhaps small pieces of cooked chicken, or bits of hot dogs. the treats don't need to be very big, but it does help if it is something very 'valuable' to the dog.
I only say this because I have one dog that wasn't all that interested in regular dog treats, so training, initially, was a bit of a chore, but once I found something that she'll do backflips for . . . well, things fell into place rather quickly

I think the fact that she is "in season" is a huge factor, as well. I personally wouldn't really work on leash training outside until a week or two after she finishes. That probably explains a lot of the distractibility.

You could, though, practice leash training inside, or out in your yard if she is comfortable enough there to not be as distracted. I always like to start leash training inside, they can really start to get the idea before you add the huge distractions that are outside.

In season is no training time here. My intact girl has no focus at all when she is in. Play/practice with high value soft food treats in the house, and work outside once she is out of season.

Thanks for the replies. I forgot to say, I had switched to using tiny bits of cheese with no luck either, so maybe I'll try something meaty

I've never been in this situation before, but I will be getting her neutered in the future. She has already had a litter, but I definitely don't want to breed from her...she isn't "perfect" conformation wise for starters. Still gorgeous of course I'll let you know how it goes!

^^^Great idea.

And remember not to push the training issue right now. It'll only be another couple of weeks before she should be back to normal.

Depending on the dog it does take some of the more sensitive personalities more time to adjust to a change in their environment. I currently have a Shiba Inu and it took her well over 2 weeks to feel comfortable enough in the begining. So every dog is different. Alot of dog in my classes have a similar problem with focusing. The idea is when your dog wont focus its either they are tired or your just too boring for them and the "other stimulus" is more entertaining. Before attempting to train your dog I would suggest a slight workout before hand. Now dont let your dog get completely tired but to get rid of just enough energy that they dont feel like they have to experience everything while your trying to maintain focus.
Im a strong believer in redirecting attention to get the result you want. If something is entertaining in one direction (after you have excersied a bit) then turning your dog out of its line of sight or placing your body between you and the extra stimulus.
The size of your dog and the size of yourself is of no signifigance. I know 9 year olds that can walk full grown Danes with no problem. Im glad to hear you are trying a halti though admittedly some dogs dont respond to it. I would try a "gentle leader" you can get it at most any pet stores.

Good Luck with your training
Lacy
http://powerfulpups.blogspot.com/

Again you either lead and the dog follows or you are in trouble. NO excuses I have several females...I don't go around making excuse's for them. they either know the material or they don't. Train the animal. Have fun and succeed. If you don't start right away you will have bigger problems in the future.

ok, if you dont' start WHAT?

I have found that using force to train focus unravels later when distractions are increased and the dog has to CHOOSE to work with you.

Stick with the treats they do work. And if she looses focus cause something too exciting is too close-move to as far away as you need to to regain focus and move in.

That is exactly how I train focus on my dogs (hehe and I have JRTs-a breed not known for their focus on humans) Here is a short clip of me working Dekka in a very distracting environment. And no I don't have treats on me in the clip. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_T-WUt6k-ac.

And I agree with Red force training seldom works, and when it does it takes longer and has 'side effects'

Very good point. I would rather take my time in the beginning and let the dog choose me (over the environment). Trying to force fast results isn't usually a great long term plan.

I'm a big fan of hand feeding (nothing from a bowl) and long walks on long lines. The long walks (with enough leash) let the dog meet it's exercise/curiosity needs. The hand feeding makes you a strong focus on the walk.

In the beginning, I feed anytime the dog offers me attention during the long walk. Later, I refuse to reward until I call the dog or give some other sort of command to obey. The dogs will try to offer attention and I tell them I'm not interested yet, go on and walk. By the time I call them they are relieved and excited to hear from me. I train for a few seconds to a few minutes, always quitting before the dog has had enough or gets distracted and then I send them back on their walk.

Pups raised like this are totally different on walks than dogs taken on shorter walks on leashes (where they learn to pull away from the handler all the time). It also works great on older dogs to repair attention/recall problems.

Use the long line to prevent your new dog from pulling to kids or other dogs. Don't let her learn to initiate social contact in this way. If you keep walking her past kids and feed her when she shows you attention, she will desensitize to the kids and focus on you. If she is allowed to greet them, make sure you send her to them with a particular command so she knows when socializing is appropriate and waits for your cue.

^^^^ Great advice. I especially like this part:
I've done this with many dogs myself, and it's especially good for the ones who don't solicit much attention at first, eventually they're thrilled when you do want to talk to them.

I reward for looking at me just around the house, with no distractions. Responding to their name gets a c/t. It started out with no distractions and now he's even looking at me around other dogs (which is HUGE for him).

Keep it up- it takes a long time and a lot of patience and effort to make a really great relationship with your dog. When you get it right, they really want to come to you, even when there are distractions. Sounds like you you're getting there.

I think the point is, in this case, that the dog DOES NOT know the material already. In season bitches are moody and don't have much focus, especially not in a brand new environment.