He started barking in the last run, and spinning, which at least told me he was thinking enough to be frustrated, maybe I am taking that wrong though. I did however put him in a down stay outside of the ring to bring him back down. If I run him with a toy of any sort he'll behave that way. I had to remove the use of targets (lids) because he can make those into toys as well, if we need a target in the future we'll try an actual dinner plate to deter picking it up. Again though, I am really happy with this run. To be honest I started walking the course like I would with Sloan and had to think, no... stop, this is for him but he really impressed me. He's starting to click... that or tomorrow I'll swear again he's a moron and I want to die. LOL
Indoors you can try a piece of duct tape on the floor. Not that he won't still
try to pick it up LOL
In all the videos you've posted of him, he really seems like he's a good boy! I think within another few months, you'll be even more impressed with him
I think Ziggy and Backup struggle with a lot of the same things actually. I wish we
Yeah, I'm sure why but I venture it's the obed that either hurts the right OR laid foundation for being used to being on my left, basically meaning I'm not sure he even likes to be on my left but he tolerates it because he's been doing it with me since 8 months old.
It could very well seem to him that being on your right side is wrong and weird. You're changing the rules!
I'll do that. It's funny, I feel so clumsy, after years of obed, trying to train a dog to heel on my right. I finally got Sloan in but for her it was me totally, she had minimal trouble and I had motor skills izzues.
LOL I almost said in the last post that obedience handlers often struggle with the right hand side thing as much or more than the dogs! Obedience gets you so used to be left side oriented when working your dog that it seems weird and wrong to you as well.
I'm spending most of my time trying to figure out his weaves these days. If we can champion those then we'll address the fact his Aframe isn't very nice. He hits the aframe up like he's going to do a wall turn (which he'll sometimes offer) and then flies off the down. He will offer a 2o2o if he's going slowly but with any speed we lose it, plus because he's long in the loin I'm not sure I want his 2o2o on the aframe. So we have been trying using a stride regulator or loose hoop to pop him over the top and a board (obed broad jump segment) at the floor 3 feet out which he avoids with a mission but it doesn't seem to be curing things just yet.
Are you thinking of trying a running contact with him? Or a just a running aframe? He looks like he definitely has the idea on his DW and teeter. I haven't had much luck with untrained running contacts or running contacts influenced by outside things (me moving a certain way, stride regulators, hoops, etc) with fast drive-y dogs. Often it seems to work until the dog gains speed or it works in a training setting but not in a trial. I struggled for years with my GSD's contacts and never got the issue resolved. When all was said and done, I ended up having to try to race her to the end of the contact and block her LOL And of course...the faster I tried to get to the end of the contact, the faster she tried to and it was truly a race! I have high hopes for the Silvia Trkman method and I know for a running Aframe, a lot of people like Rachel Sander's method. I've heard Susan Garrett is teaching her running contacts using a foot target on the floor.
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This isn't the best, or even okay, handling but I wanted a video.
He normally finds his 2o2o much faster and with more confidence (for some reason that is usually something that clicks nicely for him) but I think I was weirding him out holding my phone and not moving with him.
http://youtu.be/ZU6ycUORVRk[/QUOTE]
I loved his release into the tunnel from the teeter! He is giving you a "why are you so weird?" look though LOL
The issue with trying to train things slow than hoping to get speed (or getting it because the dog develops a better understanding/more confidence) is that it's a different behavior when the dog is running full speed than when they are practicing slowly. So you should aim to work at speed as soon as possible because I suspect he's going to be fast
Even if it means going back to making things very, very easy so that he can successfully do what you're asking...and without killing himself LOL
Savvy has been in a foundation class for probably 9 months? And we're still doing low equipment and mostly just single obstacles with small amounts of sequencing. For the single obstacle work we do different things, such as lead outs, crosses, sends, etc and all done at speed with rewards after every successful try. Sequencing is very simple - table, tunnel, tunnel. Contacts are done only individually right and will be until they are fully trained, at full speed. I have done some additional sequencing with Savvy because I start my dogs on jumps differently than the instructor does. But he's done no sequences involving contacts at all because they aren't trained yet. He is the first dog I have trained this way, I usually try to start sequencing very early and use appropriately lowered contacts for puppies/beginners. However, I can also see with my dogs how working contacts in this manner didn't work out as ideally as not including contacts until they are trained. Jora of course had the flying off issue, as does Ziggy. Jagger has creeping problems on the downside of the contacts, especially the aframe. Whimsy is pretty good but it took awhile to get her doing full height aframes with her 2o2o at speed and her teeter has required regular maintenance. I feel some of these issues could have been avoided by completely training the contact away from the other obstacles before using it in sequences/courses. The way Savvy is being trained, all obstacles are having a lot of value built into them individually and he's learning way more about proper performance of those obstacles from the start than my previous dogs have.
I still think there are advantages to introducing easy sequencing from the start but easy is key and using appropriate obstacles. Tunnels, tables and jumps are good to start with. I really like Silvia Trkman's idea of developing sequences around favorite obstacles. For example, she suggests building a lot of value in the tunnel then doing sequences that revolve around the tunnel. First very, very simple (tunnel, jump, tunnel) but very gradually more obstacles and more difficult. This person has some info on ST Foundation class exercises on her blog:
http://justatibetanpup.blogspot.com/2011/06/st-foundations-class-lesson-one-week.html
http://justatibetanpup.blogspot.com/2011/08/silvia-trkman-foundations-class-lesson.html
