Obedience Question: Lagging

Hey everyone. Its been a while since my last post. Ive been just lurking around recently
Anyways; if you dont know us already, Sprout is my dog. We are in Novice obedience in 4-H and fair is coming up in April
So.. Ive been practicing off leash and stuff more often lately, and he is great at it, except he likes to lag and not keep up. He used to kinda gets distracted at things [like smells and stuff] and he is usually was not excatly right by my side, but hes improved on that. Any ideas on how I can let him know he needs to keep up? Someone from the dog park gave me advice and its worked a bit, slowly but surely, but I want to see what you all think
Thanks
-Mila and Sprout

Your dog probably has 2 issues.

He does not understand where heel position is, and he needs work on focused attention.

If you have ever given the dog a forward correction for lagging while on leash, this will accentuate the problem.

First order of business is to teach the dog to reliably find heel position from anywhere. I do this mostly using food as a lure, keeping it happy and upbeat.

I use a completely different command when I want the dog to assume heel position. I use the word "PLACE" for heel position.

In addition, I don't use the word "heel" in the beginning stages of heeling. I just say let's GO! and encourage the dog. When the dog is heeling PERFECTLY, with head up attention, and in perfect position, then the dog hears the word heel. GOOOD HEEL!. My dogs are heeling a LOT and WELL before they ever hear that word when we start out.

I also teach dogs 4 directional commands: get up, get back, get off, get in. This way, if the dog is wide, or crowding, or lagging, or forging, I can TELL the dog what to do, and it can make the adjustment without a collar correction.

I NEVER use the word HEEL to correct a dog who is out of position. If you say "HEEL" and the dog is wide or lagging, then you have named THIS position as HEEL.

Work on teaching the dog exactly what and where heel position is, and work on your focused attention using small distractions and gradually escalating to the point where the dog will ignore ANYTHING and focus on you.

I expect to spend almost a YEAR getting most dogs proficient in knowing exactly where heel position is, and having true focused attention.

Stop with ANYTHING off leash until you get the issue fixed.

Great advice from Redyre, as usual. I had the same problem with Lyric and cleaned up his heel in one session using a clicker. I do say the word, "heel" when he lags and he catches up...probably because he has already learned where heel position is. If he is sitting in front of me after a recall, I tell him "heel" and he gets up, walks around behind me and resumes heel position in an automatic sit. Heel is at your left side, with the dog's neck/shoulder area in line with your leg, regardless of what speed you're going or what the dog is doing; ie: walking, sitting, trotting. Once the dog understands where heel is, he should be able to get into position, no matter where he is at the time. Then you can work on the automatic stuff, the stuff you don't use commands for, like the automatic sit at heel...when you stop walking. I love using a clicker for shaping up behavior or cleaning up sloppy stuff. It works wonders.

I also teach the dog CUE STEPS. I cue the dog for halts, changes of pace, and left, right, and about turns.

In the beginning I exaggerate the cue steps, but once a dog is trained, unless someone is experienced and knows what to look for, they won't see the cue steps. But the dog will.

For halt, it is a SHORTER SLOWER STEP, with both feet. A shorter slower step with the right, and then I bring my left up to match the right. The dogs' rear must be on the ground before my left foot hits the ground beside the right. I use food to teach the dog to "pop" really fast into a sit.

For changing pace to a SLOWER SPEED, whether it's from normal or fast, it's a LONGER SLOWER step. This gives the dog a fraction of a second to adjust his speed so he does not forge, and eliminates confusion as to whether you are slowing down or halting.

For changing pace to a faster speed, it is a shorter quicker step. This gives the dog a fraction of a second to speed up, and helps prevent forging.

For left turns, it's a slightly shorter step as I turn my left foot at a 90 degree angle.

For right turns, the same cue is given when I turn my right foot 90 degrees to make the right turn. These turns are slightly rounded off so they look smooth and normal.

Footwork for the about turn is EXTREMELY important. Most people need to practice a lot WITHOUT the dog before they are ready to work a dog using cue steps, esp for the about turn.

It begins with a shorter step with the right foot. Why? Right. This gives the dog time to slow down and realize you are about to turn. It can prevent a wide, forge, or lag on the AT.



Then the left foot makes a T with the right foot. The right foot does not move. The instep of your left foot should be right against the toe of your right foot.



Then you reverse your right foot as you turn smoothly completely around, and set it down with your HEEL against the instep of your left foot.



Then you step off with the right foot with what? A SHORTER QUICKER step, to let the dog know it's time to take off again, and give him a chance to get going and avoid a lag.



Clear as mud?

It takes a lot of practice. Yep, I busted my butt a couple times learning to do it. But once you learn, it's very smooth and easy and it really helps the dog with ATs.

Thanks, Redyre and Doberluv for the advice
After I had posted I went to work with Sprout, and he did almost perfect! I think all our work has payed off /yay/. I just wanted to post before we went out incase it wasnt any better than the last time.
The back in, and get off stuff is a tad too advanced for us at the moment, but I will defanantly work with that when were ready.
Yeah. Weve been showing in obedience, agility and showmanship for a year and a half now, so we're pretty good. Lagging just got to us sometimes and hopefully with our hard work, its fixed now [lets hope].
I have my reasons aginst clickers, Doberluv, and I wont get into that for everyones sake, but Im glad it worked for you
I never started with treat motivation, at first [like I said], Sprout kinda got distracted, but he's been fine after being worked with daily, and he wants to work for me.
Thanks for all your tips and advice.
-Mila & Sprout

Cool cue steps! Ill work with that! Clear pics, too ;D
Thanks again

Sprout, I work the About Turns one step at a time when I'm teaching a dog, and have them sit as soon as I'm turned around without stepping off at first.

This teaches them to cue off your shoulder position, and they learn to get around that turn FAST that way, so they can take off with you and not lag or go wide.

It's very clear. You have a great way of explaining things. I realize after reading your post, that I do do those things, have been taught. But never in a million years could I explain in such great and concise detail. You're a great help!

Glad that things are coming along so great for you Sprout!

Doberluv, I credit my MARVELOUS instructor for most of it.

Redyre, that was awesome. I agree with Doberluv, we've learned it that way from instructors, but putting it into words is another story.

You should take that above post and the pics, flesh it out a little bit and put the entire thing on your website. Many people would benefit from having access to such a resource.

You've been given great advice. It really is too bad you, for some odd reason, do not like the clicker. It is an INCREDIBLE teaching tool that usually works for just about every dog. I love the way it get dogs to really start thinking and *enjoying* learning!

Goodluck in 4-H!

MOrdy, what I need to do is get hubs to get a little footage of my 18 mos old head waving face looking high stepping mouth open high headed no lagging or forging bordercollieimpersonating Rottie for you to look at.

She is going to drop open more chins by the obedience ring than she ever does by the Breed ring.