Desperate Help Needed

Kawalec

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#1
I need help.
My dog has biten me, viciously for the 2nd time now, drawing blood, and has tried many other times. Mainly when I get close to him with a treat, or when I try to take stolen socks away from him, but mainly when there is food around and I come close to him.

He is almost 5, and he has only recently started biting like this.

He is fully potty trained, and has knowledge of baisic commands (sit, come, down)

How can I get him to stop this biting, and listen.

When I tell him to come, he almost never does (without food.)
He will sit when told though.

He Jumps on people, he doesn't leave us alone at the dinner table.

I need to start being stricter with him, I know that for a fact, but what else can I do to stop him when he is in a vicious state? Please, Please help.

He is about 20 pounds.
 

Buddy'sParents

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#2
You need a professional, in my opinion. Hopefully others will see this and offer their advice as well.
 

Saje

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#3
What methods have you tried? Have you consulted a trainer?

I'm not a trainer but I can tell you that there have been very good posts in the past on dealing with food aggression.

I hope you find a way to work with him. :)
 
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#4
Is this new or has he always been a biter? If this is a new behavior get him in to get his thyroid checked.

Seems that he has a lack of training and manners. You will have a long road ahead of you since he is already 5. Did you raise him from a puppy? What breed or mix is he? Is he neutered?

Google NILIF (Nothing In Life Is Free) and VERY seriously consider crate training if he isn't already crate trained. Buy the book Ruff Love by Susan Garrett and use it word for word.

The others on this forum may have some more advice for you.

Good luck!
 

Dekka

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#5
Get a trainer and start NILIF right away. Since this is new, as long as this is not the warning signs of a health issue, it should be easily handled. Easy if you get a good trainer that is.

I just rehabbed a dog that bit and drew blood numerous times for exactly that reason (food and resource guarding) Now I am at the stage I can take toys and chewies away.

You don't need to be stricter her with him per se, you will need to be stricter with yourself to keep the training up and to be consistent. Your dog isn't doing these things cause he is mean, he does them because on some level they are working for him. If you are fair and consistent he will listen.
 
R

RedyreRottweilers

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#6
I would want a complete physical on the dog right away, along with the aforementioned behavioral modification help.
 
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#7
I agree that a thorough health check and some professional help are in order. Remember, not all trainers are created equal, so don't just hire any trainer out of the yellow pages. Speak to local vets to get a referral to a trainer that's experienced with aggression cases.
 

Kawalec

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#8
Get a trainer and start NILIF right away. Since this is new, as long as this is not the warning signs of a health issue, it should be easily handled. Easy if you get a good trainer that is.

I just rehabbed a dog that bit and drew blood numerous times for exactly that reason (food and resource guarding) Now I am at the stage I can take toys and chewies away.

You don't need to be stricter her with him per se, you will need to be stricter with yourself to keep the training up and to be consistent. Your dog isn't doing these things cause he is mean, he does them because on some level they are working for him. If you are fair and consistent he will listen.
Alright thanks this was good help.

A question I still need answerd is
"What do I do when he is snarling and showing his fangs?" If I touch him he bites, hard.
 

bubbatd

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#9
Follow all the above !!! If he's growling at you ...walk away !!! Don't let him get into things that you don't want him to have . Lay off on the treats until you have help !!! This is serious !
 

Saje

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#10
Alright thanks this was good help.

A question I still need answerd is
"What do I do when he is snarling and showing his fangs?" If I touch him he bites, hard.
All of it was good advice. You need professional, one on one help that the internet can't give you. You need to remove the things that trigger him until you can get that help.
 

skittledoo

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#11
This is definitely a very serious matter. Get professional help right away. The sooner you can start taking care of this situation the better for you and your dog.
 

lizzybeth727

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#12
A question I still need answerd is
"What do I do when he is snarling and showing his fangs?" If I touch him he bites, hard.
DEFINATELY need a professional trainer. You can also read "Mine!" By Jean Donaldson, it's a short book but has detailed instructions on how to handle resource gurading. But it does take a lot of work and a long time, and you have to be very patient or the problem will never go away.

BUT, when your dog does have something you have to take away (which should NEVER happen - keep the house impecibly clean and picked up so that he never gets anything he's not supposed to have), you can find something that's more rewarding to him - some really good treats, a favorite toy, whatever. Toss the treats/toy so that he sees them but has to move away from the forbidden item to get them. Wait until he's completely interested in the treats/toy, and then try to grab the forbidden object. If he tenses up or you start to get uncomfortable, back off because he will probably bite. And the more times he bites, the harder it will be to ultimately fix the problem.
 

Kawalec

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#13
DEFINATELY need a professional trainer. You can also read "Mine!" By Jean Donaldson, it's a short book but has detailed instructions on how to handle resource gurading. But it does take a lot of work and a long time, and you have to be very patient or the problem will never go away.

BUT, when your dog does have something you have to take away (which should NEVER happen - keep the house impecibly clean and picked up so that he never gets anything he's not supposed to have), you can find something that's more rewarding to him - some really good treats, a favorite toy, whatever. Toss the treats/toy so that he sees them but has to move away from the forbidden item to get them. Wait until he's completely interested in the treats/toy, and then try to grab the forbidden object. If he tenses up or you start to get uncomfortable, back off because he will probably bite. And the more times he bites, the harder it will be to ultimately fix the problem.
Heh. I have tried this before, he keeps the sock in his mouth and picks up the treat. Very frustrating, but worth a second chance. The NILIF seems to be the way to go for me, few of the tricks there have definitely worked.

Oh by the way, crate training would never work. Buddy is Claustrophobic.

Thankyou.
 
R

RedyreRottweilers

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#14
Oh by the way, crate training would never work. Buddy is Claustrophobic.
Your statement above is a one way ticket to failure. If you BELIEVE that you, or your dog, cannot do something, guaranteed you never will.

It is a very rare dog that cannot be crate trained. If not a crate, there are other ways to confine a dog such as exercise pens or free standing portable runs.

Your dog should have an immediately full medical workup and checkup, and you should seek PROFESSIONAL ASSISTANCE IMMEDIATELY.
 

lizzybeth727

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#15
Heh. I have tried this before, he keeps the sock in his mouth and picks up the treat. Very frustrating, but worth a second chance.
Then maybe try throwing several treats (I usually throw a handful of maybe 10-15 small treats), or throw a few big treats (hot dog slices, biscuits, anything that requires chewing).
 

Kawalec

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#16
Your statement above is a one way ticket to failure. If you BELIEVE that you, or your dog, cannot do something, guaranteed you never will.

It is a very rare dog that cannot be crate trained. If not a crate, there are other ways to confine a dog such as exercise pens or free standing portable runs.

Your dog should have an immediately full medical workup and checkup, and you should seek PROFESSIONAL ASSISTANCE IMMEDIATELY.
He starts to sweat and gets extremely frightened, he even pees himself. I'm not putting my dog threw that.
 

Saje

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#17
He starts to sweat and gets extremely frightened, he even pees himself. I'm not putting my dog threw that.
that's why you need to teach him to like it. you can't just lock him in there. and it won't happen overnight.

you have to be willing to get this dog the help he needs before something worse happens :(
 

Dekka

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#18
He starts to sweat and gets extremely frightened, he even pees himself. I'm not putting my dog threw that.
That is separation type anxiety. Yes you can say it will be hard to get your dog over this (I had one dog that would SCREAM like a banshee in a crate, we worked on it now she feels safe and loves her crate) But think of this-what if your dog needs to spend time at a vets, what if you get hurt and someone needs to look after your dog and he needs to be crated?

In this day and age IMO its a necessary skill to have a dog that will settle in a crate. Feed all meals in the crate with the door open to begin with. Gradually shut the door, and open it before he is finished eating. Work your way till he can spend short times in the crate-give him chewies in the crate etc.
 

elegy

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#19
My dog Luce hated her crate at first. She actually broke her first crate she hated it that much. But she learned to tolerate it, and she goes in willingly and without being asked. She frequently sleeps in it with the door open when she has free run of the whole house. She's comfortable there now.

It took time and patience. It took *training*. But I don't know what I would have done after her knee surgery when she had to be confined if I had not made the effort to crate train her earlier on.

What's the word on finding somebody to help you in person? Aggression is something that really cannot be well dealt with over the internet.
 

Maxy24

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