Agalty training in Southern ontario, what to look for?

CPE rulebook.. explains each class
http://www.k9cpe.com/forms/cpe2008rulebook.pdf

AAC rulebook explains their classes
http://www.aac.ca/EN/Rules/pdf/English Rule Book - secure.pdf

Dekka has made a good point. I know that the place that I started with all those years ago, didn't do me any favors on any level. We had no on the flat foundations work, a quick intro to the equipment and long sequences and courses. And we too, just stopped the dogs for a second in the contact zone etc. The results were disastrous. My dog was/is a very very fast high drive dog, he was out of control and it took me two years to retrain him after that start in agility. Now my friend also started in the same place at the same time, her dog a was kind of point and shoot type along with being a velcro dog. It didn't have any long lasting ill effects from what turned out to be inferiour training. The interesting thing is, that same trainer is still training and as far as I know most of them never end up competing. But they all come out to a non sanctioned local event..............oh gezzz it is painful to watch these people and their dogs, sad actually, they can not get around a course on any level. And the dogs are so stressed, truely not knowing the job that they are to do........no wonder most of them never carry on with training. Let alone having enough skills to compete.

Different methods for different dogs and people - I like to keep an open mind, and I do know that both ways work, and can work well. When Brandy is feeling it, she is a darn drively little dog, and speedy, and this method worked exceptionally well for us. Personal preference is, I like to slow her down in the contact area. And I'm not joking when I say she is 98% accurate on contacts (poosibly more) - to be honest, I can't even remember the last time she flew off ... so yes, it does work for driven dogs as well, just as the other method can work for not so driven dogs. I've had much success with this method, and prefer her to be as accurate as possible. This worked for us and gave her the accuracy I desired, might not work for others, but personally, I still see it to be a legitament method.

So basically, there is more then one method for training agility. Some methods work for some dogs and not for others.

Like everything in life there is always more than one way to go about doing things.

Yes as I previously posted there are many ways to do it. Some might only work for 2% of the dogs out there while some work for 98%. If you wish to spend money on a place where they teach the older more out dated ways. That is fine. BUT if you get bit by the agility bug, and you get out there more you will find that most people are moving away from some methods for a reason. I hope it all works well for you.

BrandyB>> can you get a reliable contact 20+ feet away and flip the dog away from you? I know I can't imagine trying that with Dekka without a stop cue LOL.

Like I said, I really appreciate all the replies to this thread. I will keep you guys updated with the training, what we are doing in class etc. and feel free to offer comments/ suggestions etc.

thanks again

Ah - LOL - a challenge, I love a challenge. Yes to the first part, possibly no to the second. Brandy does have a stop cue, I proofed her for that, most of the time I don't make her stop, I prefer the moving contact, but she has a "wait" command, for anywhere on course including contacts, so if need be, I can send her, and I can have her wait, and when 20 feet away, that helps a whole lot.
Possibly no to the second only because I haven't kept her foundation directionals up. (I'm slapping myself on the hand right now cause I know how important that is). I would prefer to have specific right and left commands, but because we've never worked that much on it, I would be telling her "go" for turning away from me, and "here" turning towards me. She'll do it, but it's not nearly as smooth or accurate as those who have their proper directionals down pat. oh well, we've still got things to work on - its just finding the time.

Yes yes yes Always keep that in mind, if one thing doesn't work, try a different method (as long as you're not hurting your dog - or yourself for that matter - in the process). It's always good to have different methods to work from, especially if you get stuck, it gives you more tools to solve the problem.
Good luck and keep us posted.