How would you teach this?

Flyinsbt

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#2
Interesting!

I'd teach the dog to target the cone, and to sit when it reached that target. That would be fairly easy to teach. (I'd teach it close up first, then add distance). Teaching the stand from a distance would actually be the hardest part, I think, most of us don't teach a stand that well (guilty!) But practice and gradual extension of the distance should do it.
 

stardogs

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#4
I might teach the cone as I did my article indications - it's a cue for the dog to sit. Teach the dog a release to the cone separately. Start with the cone in you hands, show the dog, cue sit. (new cue, old cue, behavior, reward in that order) Gradually put the cone closer and closer to the floor, then start moving it away from you until the dog will execute a sit as soon as they are at the cone.
 

stardogs

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#6
The main issue with the cone as target is getting the dog touching the cone with more than a tail. You lose points if they do, and in a trial setting you could easily get more wild behavior with the cone.
 

Kilter

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#7
I would use the pvc box that they already know for doing positions. Simple enough. And put the box to the right of the cone so the dog is next to the cone on the right (ideally) as the target space. Then fade out the box a bar at a time till it's just the front bar and then fade it gradually so the dog lines themselves up to be next to the cone, with their front feet next to the cone (sort of like the dog in the picture is but instead of hind feet, front feet). That way for the pickup there's no issues with a barrier for the handler or dog.
 

Flyinsbt

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#8
The main issue with the cone as target is getting the dog touching the cone with more than a tail. You lose points if they do, and in a trial setting you could easily get more wild behavior with the cone.
Hmm, I didn't see that touching the cone was a points deduction. I still think I'd use a target for the behavior, but I'd probably use a target separate from the cone, in that case. I teach my dogs a paw touch to a plastic lid as one of their first shaped behaviors, so I'd probably put one of those by the cone. Thing is that they do require the dog be quite close to the cone, so I would want the dog deliberately going to the cone.
 

Dekka

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#9
with my dogs I would free shape it. At least the go over and stand beside the cone deal. Then work on positions then add distance.

Totally cool and I would do that vs an out of sight any day for Dekka (reason I stopped pursing obed is that I won't do out of sight with her.. which sucks for Kaiden as he only needs one more open leg)
 

Flyinsbt

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#10
yeah, I like the alternative to the OOS stays. I won't do them with Tess. She was uncomfortable enough on the Novice stays.
 

corgipower

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#11
My phone is giving me trouble, is it just a distance position change?
Nope. It's a directed send dog to cone thing, followed by a sit within 3 feet of cone without touching it thing, followed by a distance position change thing.

Clear as mud?;)

I might teach the cone as I did my article indications - it's a cue for the dog to sit. Teach the dog a release to the cone separately. Start with the cone in you hands, show the dog, cue sit. (new cue, old cue, behavior, reward in that order) Gradually put the cone closer and closer to the floor, then start moving it away from you until the dog will execute a sit as soon as they are at the cone.
Weirdness. That is so not how I taught articles. :p

The main issue with the cone as target is getting the dog touching the cone with more than a tail. You lose points if they do, and in a trial setting you could easily get more wild behavior with the cone.
True, but I can command the sit before he crashes into it.

I would use the pvc box that they already know for doing positions. Simple enough. And put the box to the right of the cone so the dog is next to the cone on the right (ideally) as the target space. Then fade out the box a bar at a time till it's just the front bar and then fade it gradually so the dog lines themselves up to be next to the cone, with their front feet next to the cone (sort of like the dog in the picture is but instead of hind feet, front feet). That way for the pickup there's no issues with a barrier for the handler or dog.
I have no idea what the pvc box is.



This is kinda what I'm thinking:

I don't want him to think "go to it and sit" automatically when he sees a cone since he has to heel around them in rally. So I'm teaching it sort of as a targeted directed place/go out kind of thing (and somehow I've never taught him "place"...Don't. Ask. Why.), eventually using a variety of objects that he can go to - a book, a purse, a cone, a lamp, a box.

The other issue I see is the placement of the cone in trial and the pull of the jump and confusion between this exercise and directed jumping. But I suppose adding the jump to the picture as part of proofing and teaching him to know the difference should be possible?
 

Kilter

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#12
http://willardunleashed.blogspot.ca/2011/08/many-uses-of-pvc-box-part-one-of-two.html

That should explain it.

I would think you could proof for either situation, like you would for any sort of training. If he's heeling, he should not leave your side to go to the cone. Same as if he was in agility, he should not run out and take every tunnel he sees because it's there. If there's ever a cone and a jump in the ring at the same time, you'd proof for that.
 

meepitsmeagan

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#14
I have no ideas... And have never had much interest in getting into formal obedience, but that strangely looks like LOADS of fun. No joke.

That is my input. ;)

Quite sorry for the random spurt of nothingness.
 

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