progress on loose leash walking, but I have a question

Mayasmydobe

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#1
ok so I have made what I consider some progress with loose leash walking with Maya... I can get her to walk loose leash but only in one room. If we leave the room she is at the end of the lead pulling my arm out again...
this is the text that I am basing my training off of, which seems to work, but only in my living room.
What can I do to make her understand that this is supposed to happed, everywhere?

the only difference is that, it says that you dont have to use a clicker, but I am using it. (I love this clicker so much!)


Okay, now start out with your dog sitting or standing at your side. Use a treat to lure him around to that position if needed. Let him see the treats you are holding in your hand.Say his name once to get his attention, then step off, praising happily. Take JUST 1-2 steps, then pause in mid stride to deliver a treat. (We no longer have people use the clicker for this in class - it was difficult for many people to coordinate everything, and we found that the dogs pick this up very easily without the clicker.)

Wait just long enough for him to gobble down the treat, then take 2 more steps and give another treat. Be sure that you are getting the treat to the dog quickly, so that he is still by your side when he gets it. If he runs out in front, then lure him back to your side before giving him the treat. CAUTION!! Don't go more than 2 steps for now! You must hold your dog's attention for this to work and that is so much easier for only 2 steps. Be sure to praise enthusiastically the entire time he at your side! If you need to turn around, then lure your dog around by holding a treat right in front of his nose, make the turn, pause to give the treat, then move on. However - be careful to only use the luring on the about turns and when you have to go past any distractions your dog isn't ready for. Otherwise, when you are walking you must keep the treats away from the dog's nose. He should NOT be walking along, simply staring at a treat you are dangling. So, when you are moving forward, a few steps at a time, keep your treat hand up by your waist.

If at any point he runs ahead, then lure him back before stepping off again. If this is happening often, then you need to take fewer steps before delivering a treat. Also try to walk quickly and praise - both of those things will go a long way towards keeping your dog's focus on you.

If you have a very small dog or puppy, you might find it gets old bending down to deliver the treat. You can try using a long wooden spoon dipped in peanut butter or soft cheese. You just hold it up and out of the way while walking, then dip it down so your dog just has to reach up a bit for a quick lick before you continue on. Thanks to trainer Patty Ruzzo for sharing that tip - one of her own students thought of it!

When your dog is consistently walking nicely for 2 steps, then begin requiring more. 4 steps, then 6 steps, etc. before you pause to treat. Keep it fun - make a lot of turns and circles.

It is essential that you use good enough treats, work in a distraction-free area at first, and that you praise the WHOLE time you are pleased with your dog's behavior. You cannot praise enough! Usually a happy, high pitched voice works well. Try to sound a little silly! If you become quiet, you are likely to lose your dog's attention. You are competing against the entire environment for his attention so you had better be pretty darn interesting! It is far, far easier to capture his attention before you start out & keep it than to try to capture it back again & again.
text found at : www.clickerlessons.com
 

Cheza

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#2
I don't know Maya but I'd be interested to hear as we still have issues on a loose leash with Cheza, and now would be some prime time to get in some training while she heals.
 

corgipower

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#3
every time you go to a new location, you need to reteach the exercise. it takes many different locations before the dog begins to generalize and perform the exercise everywhere.
 

Herschel

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#4
As CorgiPower said, you have to practice in distracting environments.

If you want a dog that will walk with a loose leash in any setting, it takes months of practice. Herschel does, but he wasn't 100% until he was 10 months to 1 year old. Nala is 7 months now and she walks next to me on familiar roads but tries to pull in any novel situation. Luckily, I also taught her "don't pull".

By the way, have you ever read Patricia McConnell's "Beginning Family Dog Training"? It is really short and I think it would help you tremendously. It's basically a cook book for training a family dog (with or without a clicker). $10 at Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Beginning-Fam...0830338?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1191764465&sr=8-1

We first teach "watch me". Then, once we know the dog is comfortable looking at our eyes, we start walking. If the dog pulls, stop. (Most people teach their dogs that it is good to pull because they let the dog pull them!) Use high value treats and get the dogs attention. Hold the leash in one hand, offer the treat with the other. Just hold the treat by your hip. Once your dog gets by your side and looks at you, give the treat. (A lot of dogs will jump and nip your hand, bite hard, or hurt you. At first, you have to ignore the pain) After your dog gets the point--looking at you gets rewarded, then you can start using the command "gentle" to get them to take the treat more nicely.

For the record, we don't practice loose leash walking inside. We start outside and gradually increase the length of time. It is really tough on a dogs mind to focus on walking a certain way for too long, so you have to work your way up. We start with a couple of minutes (after exercise), and work up to constant loose leash walking from the moment we walk out the door.

To teach don't pull: as soon as the dog starts pulling, say "don't pull" and stop. They might continue to pull but don't take a single step until they sit down. As soon as the leash is slack, give a treat and continue walking. You will look ridiculous (stop, go, stop, go) and walking around the block will take you an hour, but it is such a convenient command. The other benefit is that the dog learns to sit by your side as soon as you stop. That might not be great for an obedience dog, but for a family dog it is a really nice skill, especially in public places.
 

Mayasmydobe

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#5
Thank you...
Although, I do have one other concern.
I know that any time she gets to pull, it reinforces the pulling. But, with Maya, my dad takes her out in the mornings, and he doesnt have the time in the morning to work on the training. Is there a way to keep her from pulling in the mornings? Like a special harness. I have been told that the gentle leader is the way to go, but isnt that the one that goes over the head and clips under the chin? I have serious concerns about that becuase she does lunge and I dont want her to hurt her neck. I was thinking about the harness that clips at the chest, do you guys think that would work? that way She doesnt get the change to pull.
 

adojrts

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#6
Ok, going to add my two cents worth.

For a dog to pull they have to have something to pull against. To teach a dog not to pull as a handler you have to become ultra aware of the leash and how much pressure or how loose it is. People become so use to *holding* their dogs, that they don't realize just how often or how much they are pulling (the handler pulling and/or holding, NOT the dog). The end result is a dog and handler that are *dull* to the leash and dogs that pull.
When you are training, if you can have someone watch or video (they don't have to a dog person nor a trainer, all you need are their eyes), you maybe very surprised at how often you take up the slack etc.

Personally I find it easier to train a dog loose leash walking while*going someplace* instead of around in circles etc. Most dogs are motivated by going for the walk .......dog park.........car (whatever).
Start out with the leash loose, BUT not holding it at the end, that allows the dog to get to far out front and it also allows them leverage. Start with them standing quietly and calmly on the loose leash beside you, click and reward, if at ANYTIME the dog starts without you, just nicely and gentley bring them back to the correct position BUT don't give them a reward, because if you do, then you are rewarding them for leaving in the first place. The walk doesn't start until they are how and where you want them. THEN start to walk, (remember don't give them too much leash, but enough to allow slack when they are in the correct position), if the dog starts to forge ahead or pull, STOP, nicely bring them back to position (standing is fine), loose leash, start forward again, IF the dog gives you a loose leash, click and reward!! The first couple of walks (I find they figure it out during the first hundred feet if you are doing it correctly) can be difficult and long. You have to have patience and TIME, so don't do this if you only have time for a quick walk. You have to have the mind set that you have all the time in the world to get to where you are going. It works the same for a dog that bears out to the side as well, bring them back to position, go to a loose leash and start forward again. Always click and reward in the beginning for a loose leash, and always stop forward motion when the dog even starts to pick up that slack to the front or to the side. But you have to become aware of the leash, if you stop to talk to the neighbor, make sure you DON'T have an ounce of pressure on that leash. Normally for dogs that pull, their owners get into the habit of ALWAYS holding them with a tight leash, therefore it is often a learned behaviour.

Good luck
Lynn
 
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opokki

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#7
Yes, if your dad doesn't have time to work on the training and must walk her I would consider a Gentle Leader head collar or an Easy Walk harness. I've seen both used successfully on a variety of dogs.

Dogs don't generalize well so its important to train in a variety of locations. Keep up the good work, she will get it.
 

Mayasmydobe

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#9
yes I have gotten some great info... my only concern is the halter to use when my Dad takes Maya out. I dont want one the clips onto the head becuase Maya lunges and I am afraid she will hurt herself...
 

houndlove

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#10
What about an Easy Walk harness? Safer for dogs that lunge and doesn't require so much work conditioning the dog to it like a head collar usually requires.
 

mrose_s

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#12
Busters getting better now. Having the cat around is a great way to practice his "focus" and loose leash walking.
He's been on a leash for hours every day now and is very quickly relising that pulling gets him no-where near that cat, if he drops back to the heal position though we go forward... next step! outside.
 

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