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#41
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When you "poke" him and he bites you - "nip" or otherwise - and you then go back to a rousing game of tug, you've just rewarded him for biting you. I agree that you have inadvertently encouraged your dog to redirect on you. No more of that in the game.
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#42
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Chloe is one of those dogs that gets overstimulated in play, and then resorts to being VERY physical. I used to be able to have structured rough housing with her, but the past few times I've been at the house and played with her I've had to stop due to her getting wound up to the point I'm afraid I'm going to end up with a nasty bite. Always before I could tell she was in control of herself; I might get nipped hard, but it was still all in play. This past time it wasn't play, but borderline outright aggression where if she was going to bite, it would have been for real. So from now on, playtime with her is completely structured. Fetch with a little bit of tug slipped in, but she has to perform commands while we're playing. (I say "sit", she sits, I throw toy, she gets toy and brings toy back, we play tug with toy for a few seconds, I say "drop it", she drops it, I say "down", she downs, I throw toy...) She has fun and enjoys what we're doing, but it stays "low key" for her and she doesn't get over stimulated.
She's also not the kind of dog I would ever take to a dog park, because she does the same thing with other dogs. What starts out as play quickly turns in to something more and she gives only very subtle, quick warning signs before what was fun turns into something serious. She's also a dog I had to get used to being handled. She has arthritis in her right back hip so she is very sensitive there and WILL bite if you hit her/bump her/pull on that leg. But for everything else, I would do X and then cram cat food in her face. Took her awhile, but she's much better about structured handling now and I can restrain her/groom her/etc. I still have to be very careful about the situation she is being handled in and her current mood, and I would definitely still I still manage her regarding her intolerance, but she's much better.
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#43
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Thanks guys for all the advice. I'll definitely stop poking and prodding Baloo during tug, and I'll watch those videos. I also have the books on my list once we get another paycheck. (I need them for two dogs, anyways.) Baloo is barred from the dog park until further notice... I guess it's time to train him to run next to the bike... Which always ends up in me eating dirt once or twice... Lol.
Kady, can you PLEASE explain the motivation behind this totally rude, and frankly condescending comment? I'd love to hear it!
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#44
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I'd also do some basic attention exercises to work on him looking to you instead of becoming fixated on tasty wee dogs in public. It also sounds like you need to work on him being comfortable with you handling his feet and trimming his nails. At first Scout was like that... especially when I had to dig cheat out from between her fuzzy toes (thankfully with better food her coat no longer is a magnet for that crap) and that really upset my other girl who then wanted to protect me from Scout despite how gentle Scout was being. It was awkward. It took me over a year to work up to doing all four of Scout's paws at once, but it was worth the time it took to acclimate her so slowly because now its not a big deal. Susan Garrett and Sophia Yin both have videos on how to work on that stuff online. Kikopup probably does too for that matter. ![]() Sounds like you guys need to work on him targeting his tug and not your hands. Its good to work toy rewards into OB training to work on the whole thinking while in drive thing and practicing targeting correctly. |
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#45
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I'm also going to go and buy a clicker today. Figure I'm going to have to eventually lol and the one I had when Chevelle was younger worked pretty well. I just didn't keep it up because she flinched at the noise more often than not and she didn't need it either way. I think it will help with Baloo because he responds a lot better to audible stimulus.
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"I never saw a wild thing sorry for itself." -D.H. Lawrence "Only when the last tree is cut, only when the last river is polluted, only when the last fish is caught, will they realize that you can’t eat money." –Native American proverb |
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#46
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Barbara, do be careful. He's young and too much "forced" running can be dangerous. Also too much physical exercise can just create a monster of stamina and energy. What I'm saying is don't neglect the mental stimuli such as nosework, obed, flirt pole & control/obed, etc.
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#47
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If the clicker does startle him, you can always use a cue word or wrap it in fabric to muffle the sound....A lot of people like using a cue word but for some reason it always felt really hard and uncoordinated to me, I STRONGLY prefer a clicker.
Good luck with the biking, I'd actually be interested in following the process of teaching a dog to do that. I've never done it before. You might also want to try a spring pole for exercise.
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#48
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If you have a box clicker you can pierce it with a thumb tac to mute it supposedly. I've never tried it but I've seen it encouraged for dogs who are uncomfortable with the sound.
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#49
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Chevelle is the one that didn't like it... I don't think Baloo has ever heard one. Lol. We will see.
I have taught both Chevelle and Malyk to run next to the bike and they do pretty well now. I've done it with Baloo once or twice (slowly) and he tries to drag the bike while being far ahead. So we will have to work on him learning where he should be (to the left of the bike) and to not just all out SPRINT. Lol. I'll be careful. I know young puppies shouldn't be exercised too hard because of their growth plates... But he runs at least a mile doing circles in my living room. Lol. He can do half a mile going down the street with me.
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"I never saw a wild thing sorry for itself." -D.H. Lawrence "Only when the last tree is cut, only when the last river is polluted, only when the last fish is caught, will they realize that you can’t eat money." –Native American proverb |
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#50
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*cough*bikejoring*cough*
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