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  #11  
Old 07-05-2008, 02:15 PM
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lizzybeth727 lizzybeth727 is offline
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Glad to hear you're making progress!

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Originally Posted by beloved1 View Post
She is getting used to my verbal cues on what she should not do, but does not recognize any word pertaining to "no" in any shape or form. From anyone, including the other animals. We need to work on that.
Keep in mind that it is FAR FAR more important to teach your puppy what TO do, instead of what NOT to do. So any form of the word "NO" should really not be relied on from you at this point in her life. If she starts to do something she's not supposed to do, call her to you/squeek a toy/do something to redirect her attention elsewhere, and then always reward when she is doing a good behavior - even if it's just that she's laying down and being calm and relaxed. (You don't have to give a treat as a reward, praise/petting/play is very rewarding at this point too.) This is very difficlt - you have to be very dilligent about keeping her very close to you at all times so you can watch/catch her, and you have to be very mindful of what good behaviors are that you can be rewarding. But it's much easier for her to understand what TO do, what will get her a reward, and it's a much better way to build your relationship with her - she learns that you're a fun person and good things come from you.

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Originally Posted by beloved1 View Post
The vet says I should not take her anywhere until she has completed all her shots, approx. 16 weeks old. So I don't know that I can take her to class yet.
Many vets recommend this, but vets also are not good about thinking about puppies' socialization - the socialization period for puppies ends when the puppy is around 12-16 weeks old. The socialization period is very important because this is the short time of their lives when it is very easy to teach them what kinds of things in life are "safe" - like other people, other dogs, new places, etc. Far more dogs have died (been euthanized) because of lack of socialization, than dogs have died from diseases they contracted before their vaccinations have been completed.
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  #12  
Old 07-05-2008, 02:36 PM
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^^^^^ agree about the basic socializing beginning very early at the breeders .
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  #13  
Old 07-05-2008, 02:56 PM
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^^^^ agreed, after second set of vacc's, I start taking pups everywhere, including dog shows and agility trials. To classes and everywhere in between. I do not allow them to drink for community water bowls (not my adults either) and I have never had a sick pup or dog for that matter.
I have hauled entire litters to my agility classes or trials.
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  #14  
Old 07-05-2008, 07:42 PM
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Okay, so I need to rethink about the classes? I agree that socialization is important. She growled at every single animal at the vets. Egads. They gave me a pistol! I also need help in my management of her, so class would be a really good thing.

Thanks for all the advice, esp. the pulling in to the bite. The reason I have NOT done that (I have done that with all my other dogs) is my skin. My right arm is very sensitive and looks like a giant blood blister. I will have yo make sure I am very well covered, as I have already started to do, until the bite season is re-directed.

In regards to learning what TO do as opposed to NOT, how do I handle that when I take her out and she turns in to the devil chasing dog that leaps over the planters in to the veggie garden...on PURPOSE? I will have my son erect a fence, but . Never mind. I will just make sure I always bring a ball with me to distract her.



Thanks.
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  #15  
Old 07-05-2008, 10:49 PM
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Quote:
In regards to learning what TO do as opposed to NOT, how do I handle that when I take her out and she turns in to the devil chasing dog that leaps over the planters in to the veggie garden...on PURPOSE? I will have my son erect a fence, but . Never mind. I will just make sure I always bring a ball with me to distract her.
I would take her out on a leash so you can stop her before she makes that mistake. A ball to keep her busy out there will help, too
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  #16  
Old 07-06-2008, 07:56 AM
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Instead of pulling the dog into your arm by his skin (I'm still unclear as to where you are supposed to pull him by, his scruff or skin under his neck?) How about seeing what he does if you push your arm into his mouth (not super fast, just a normal smooth movement unfueled by emotion) , it works with cats but they do have smaller mouths so you'd have to try it.

Personally I think if he's biting out of play you should stand up and turn your back on him every time he bites you so he learn play ends when he hurts you and will learn to not bite.

If he's biting to protest being picked up I would desensitize him to that (I would clicker train that) or perhaps change how you lift him, he may feel insecure, like he's gonna fall and needs more support underneath his belly and feet.
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  #17  
Old 07-06-2008, 02:44 PM
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She is just puppy biting. She gets excited and does the puppy bite thing. I was looking for alternatives to the arm thing, as that is very difficult for me. When I was younger I could have done the arm thing with no damage, but not now.
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  #18  
Old 07-06-2008, 02:59 PM
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Instead of taking her out to a dog park or classes, I'd invite a dog over that you know of that has all of his/her shots. I wouldn't risk her getting ill or worse, even if this is an important stage in her. There are other, safer, alternatives.
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  #19  
Old 07-06-2008, 06:39 PM
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Any decent training class is going to require proof of vaccinations before you come to the first class.
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  #20  
Old 07-09-2008, 12:26 AM
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Yes, they do, and they have a puppy kindergarten class that also lists how old and what shots she should have before she will be allowed in the class. I have to call them tomorrow. Today was not a good day for anything.
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