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Old 06-01-2012, 04:47 PM
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Default GO AWAY cue

I need one. It'll really be a "go away and stay away doing your own thing" cue. Mu spent most of last weekend guarding me from the eeeeeevil intentions of my parent's dog. I'm a little over it, especially because she emits piercing banshee shrieks every time she flies at Max's face. So, how do I teach it? I have a touch target that she will go away from me to but I don't know how to teach the stay away part. Ideas?
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Old 06-01-2012, 05:09 PM
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Is it just a socialization problem? Does she generally act aggressive towards other dogs? Because that would be a whole different issue
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Old 06-01-2012, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Cthulhu7 View Post
Is it just a socialization problem? Does she generally act aggressive towards other dogs? Because that would be a whole different issue
This behavior is really a resource guarding problem. And since the resource is me it makes it very hard for me to work on. Time outs are extremely effective but I can't always institute a time out when she's doing it. She does have some socialization issues that we're working on (with a behaviorist) but she's not aggressive. She's just very pushy (hello heeler side lol) and she doesn't know when to quit.
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Old 06-02-2012, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taqroy View Post
This behavior is really a resource guarding problem. And since the resource is me it makes it very hard for me to work on. Time outs are extremely effective but I can't always institute a time out when she's doing it. She does have some socialization issues that we're working on (with a behaviorist) but she's not aggressive. She's just very pushy (hello heeler side lol) and she doesn't know when to quit.
If it's a resource guarding issue, remove the resource when she displays that behavior. When the other dog is around, feed her good things. Result: the unwanted behavior causes the good thing (you) to go away. displaying "nice" behavior (and the presence of the other dog) causes the good thing (s) to be given to her. (You + treats)
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Old 06-01-2012, 05:18 PM
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We use "beat it" for everybody.

Initially we taught it as a "place" command (so reward for leaving and lying down in a particular spot), but we gradually stopped enforcing the particular spot and instead rewarded for general motion away from the person giving the command. It takes a ton of repetition at first, but at least with our guys it stuck pretty quickly.

Very useful when we are cooking or everybody is underfoot!
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Old 06-02-2012, 11:11 AM
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Yeah, I dunno, if you've dealt with corgi bitches before, you know that adding food into an equation that's already guardy is a bad idea. Tried it, been there. LOL. Food will often just increase the arousal level in these situations. Keeva will guard me from dogs at work that she feels are too pushy, and adding food to the situation didn't work well at all, for anybody - especially for the stupid labs who thought she didn't REALLY mean go away.

This sounds like a great case for mat work. Teach her to drive to the mat and then add duration (no moving until released), just like a stay. Or crate games! What about crate games, using a pop-up crate? Then she also has a sense of safety and privacy from pushy puppies.

Keeva screams when she's trying to drive dogs off too, it makes me lol. I dunno about Mu, but Keeva DOES NOT do your typical "resource guarding" behavior, hunched shoulders, growling - non of that. She just goes, "I DARE you..." and then when they push it, they get a face full of teeth. So far, she's just learning that acting like an ass gets you booted from my lap.

Oh corgis, LOL.

Also, Cthulhu7... Just because a dog doesn't want to tolerate a rude puppy near its owner doesn't mean it has "socialization issues." Dog on dog tolerance is highly variable based on way more than socialization. Heeler/cattle dog types are not known for dog tolerance nor are they SUPPOSED to be uber friendly with every dog. A desire to control the movements and behaviors of other animals in part of their nature.
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Old 06-03-2012, 08:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Emily View Post
Yeah, I dunno, if you've dealt with corgi bitches before, you know that adding food into an equation that's already guardy is a bad idea. Tried it, been there. LOL. Food will often just increase the arousal level in these situations. Keeva will guard me from dogs at work that she feels are too pushy, and adding food to the situation didn't work well at all, for anybody - especially for the stupid labs who thought she didn't REALLY mean go away.

This sounds like a great case for mat work. Teach her to drive to the mat and then add duration (no moving until released), just like a stay. Or crate games! What about crate games, using a pop-up crate? Then she also has a sense of safety and privacy from pushy puppies.

Keeva screams when she's trying to drive dogs off too, it makes me lol. I dunno about Mu, but Keeva DOES NOT do your typical "resource guarding" behavior, hunched shoulders, growling - non of that. She just goes, "I DARE you..." and then when they push it, they get a face full of teeth. So far, she's just learning that acting like an ass gets you booted from my lap.

Oh corgis, LOL.

Also, Cthulhu7... Just because a dog doesn't want to tolerate a rude puppy near its owner doesn't mean it has "socialization issues." Dog on dog tolerance is highly variable based on way more than socialization. Heeler/cattle dog types are not known for dog tolerance nor are they SUPPOSED to be uber friendly with every dog. A desire to control the movements and behaviors of other animals in part of their nature.
Keeva and Quinn must be sistas from another mista!
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Old 06-03-2012, 08:42 PM
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Keeva and Quinn must be sistas from another mista!
Haha! Bitches, what are you gonna do? LOL
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Old 06-02-2012, 11:24 AM
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I totally agree with Emily's post. Adding food to the picture just adds more resources to guard. Crate Games and mat work would be excellent tools to use. Also something that works with some dogs is as soon as you see the first sign of resource guarding, get up and walk away. This can get tiresome because you have to do it every time but it works with some dogs to show them that guarding is making the thing they are guarding (you!) go away.
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Old 06-02-2012, 02:11 PM
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I had an issue with my Doberman for a few weeks getting guardy over me and directing snarls toward my male Chihuahua. It was limited to one room, my den when I was on the computer and they were both in there. No other place did this happen. Something about that den. lol. I did some exercises every day where I'd put Jose` under a chair with rails where he was somewhat protected. I took Lyric, the Dobe out of the room into an adjacent room for a half minute or so and pay no attention to him, stood there in a very boring situation, then brought him back in the presence of Jose`and started feeding high value treats to him and paid lots of attention to him, then took him back out and ignored him. The food treats made a positive association with Jose`. In other words, he found out that Jose`'s presence didn't mean he would lose out on my attention and in fact, would increase it and all kinds of wonderful things happened. I have used this kind of method with clients' dogs who had similar issues successfully. If a dog is guarding the food, then that has to go away until he isn't. OR....the food has to come quickly before he gets a chance to display that "naughty" behavior, rewarding him for calmness. If it comes after or during the snarking, then that may be taken the wrong way. And yes, with some dogs, it can raise the excitement level, so the individual needs to be taken into account. But it works well with many dogs, as I have come to find out.
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