View Full Version : Frustrated with housebreaking
I have a 7 month old Peke A Poo who is having an incredibly hard time learning not to relieve himself in the house.
We got him when he was about 4 months old, and he had never been housebroken by the breeder. He's healthy and checks out great at the vet. The breeder has a great reputation and the dog has never been abused. He's playful, energetic and generally happy - in short, he's in great health.
Yet he won't learn to relieve himself outside. When we first got him, we took him out every hour and praised him when he went outside. This sort of worked. When we weren't home we kept him locked in a small foyer of our house. If he went inside while we were gone we'd show him his mess, tell him no and clean it up completely. If we caught him inside, we'd yell NO and take him out immediately. After 6 weeks of this we saw absolutely ZERO improvement.
We then tried to use a crate (in this case, a small plastic box). This helped some, but for whatever reason our dog doesn't mind laying in his own excrement, whether it be solid or liquid. We tried this for about 2 weeks and got tired of having to bathe him every other day. We went back to just taking him out every hour or two and praising him if he used the bathroom outside. This went on for another 3 or 5 weeks or something. Little improvement.
We've tried punishment. I didn't expect much out of this, but believe it or not this has proven more effective than anything else. If he made a mistake in front of us, we'd yell at him, whap him with a rolled up newspaper and take him outside immediately. If we found out after the fact, we'd just bring him to it, show it to him and yell NO then put him in his box for 10 minutes as punishment.
He's at the point now where he can generally hold himself until we take him out at 0700 (usually holding it anywhere from 4 to 8 hours). Very few accidents in his little room (he still stays in the foyer if we aren't home) when we are gone. In fact, he's pretty good at holding it so long as he is stuck in his little room. The problem is he won't try to hold it at all if we're home with him. If we are watching a movie, he'll be in our lap asleep. He will wake up, take two steps, relieve himself and come back to us and lay down. Sometimes, if he's particularly lazy, he'll lay down in his own mess and try to go back to sleep. We picked up a shock collar, and while this has proven extremely effective at keeping him out of the litter (he LOVES eating cat poop), it is having hard any effect at convincing him not to go in the house. He jumped into the litter box one time, and we shocked him one time, and he hasn't done it since. That was two weeks ago.
Sometimes, on the rare occassions he lets us know he has to go out, he'll start to poop or whatever outside, and the slightest thing that distracts him will make him stop. Then, after 45 minutes of waiting outside, we'll come back in, and within 15 seconds he'll just squat and do whatever he had to do.
I'm completely frustrated and fed up. Does anyone have any advice?
Julie
01-31-2006, 11:21 PM
I wanted to address this first...........A FOUR or SEVEN MONTH OLD PUP SHOULD NOT BE SUBJECTED TO A SHOCKING COLLAR! The cat litter can easily be put into a baby gated room that the cat can jump the gate and the pup can't.
Now, I also wanted to welcome you and I am glad you have found this site. Maybe all the people here can help you get on the right track.
The pup should not be punished for an old accident, just clean it up!!! Some people use Natures Miracle to remove all odors. To help prevent having a favorite spot.
Now if you catch the pup in the act of pottying in the house just a clap of the hands and NO, should be enough. And quickly take him outside to a designated area. And if he finishes outside........LOTS of praise.
Now for him sleeping on you while watching movies...when a pup has been sleeping and wakes up........do not wait a minute....take the pup outside as soon as his eyes open! You might have to rewind the movie, but the pup should not have a chance to walk around in this circumstanse.
And wacking your dog with anything will only cause more problems later!!!!
It might seem to be helping the most but you are fooling yourself. This only causes problems.
I know you will get lot's of responses and help with your situation and I am sure I will add more later.
Julie.
Well, the layout of the house prevents us from putting the litter in a separate area that the cats can still access. He avoids it now anyway, so whether we should have or should not have shocked him for it, we did.
I'm not sure what else to try besides the punishment. Hopefully I can figure something out.
Thanks for the response! :)
I should add that he isn't stupid. He KNOWS that he isn't supposed to go in the house. If he does go inside, he looks guilty. Even if you don't know that he has done anything, the look on his face tells you immediately that he's made a mess somewhere (he has very limited run of the house). He knows to scratch at doors to get to his water, or to go outside if he wants to play. He just refuses to do it when he wants to potty. He knows it's ok to go outside, and that it's bad to do it inside. He just seems extremely stubborn and lazy. And I still don't understand why he doesn't mind laying down in his own excrement.
juliefurry
01-31-2006, 11:58 PM
I had the same problem with my old pitbull mix. We got him at seven months old and he had no housebreaking experience with his "breeders". We tried crating him and then we tried babygating him off in the kitchen and then we tried letting him just be with us all the time and NOTHING worked. He was almost a year old and still not alerting us that he had to go outside and would go whereever he was at, even if he was in his crate. You can try what I have done with my dogs now it's frustrating but it has worked really well for my dogs. I let them play for ten minutes (I would use an alarm) and then crate them (or put him in his room) for twenty minutes. After the twenty minutes is up he immediately goes outside and then if he pottys he gets lots of praise and a treat. After he seems to be doing good with this you can slowly raise the time he is allowed to roam around with you guys by five minutes (it usually took me three or four days before I could raise the time for my pups). After he is successfully holding it for a half an hour then you can start the process over where he is playing in the house for half an hour, crated for fifteen, then immediately outside and then when he pottys praise and back inside to be with you for another half an hour. It probably sounds confusing but it's not. Your puppy probably doesn't mind being in his own waste because he was kept in a crate or whatever and he had no choice but to lay in it. I think that is what happened with our pitbull mix. I hope you find some way to correct your puppy's problem it may seem hopeless now but I bet the lightbulb will go off for him soon. Just keep positively reinforcing him for going potty outside and if he goes inside COMPLETELY ignore him. Put him in his little room, or crate, and clean up the mess with nature's miracle or a similar product and do not let him see you clean up the mess. He may think that it's a game making you clean up the mess so don't let him see you do it.
Julie
02-01-2006, 12:00 AM
Was the pup confined to a small crate while a small pup? Was the pup conditioned to poop where he sleeps? Such as a petshop pup or puppy mill breeder? Sometimes that really hampers house training efforts.
You also might think the pup knows when he did wrong as in an accident, but he is probably just scared because of the being hit with a rolled up newspaper and being shocked with the electric collar.
Do you have a bathroom????????? The litter could go in there with a baby gate blocking the dog from access.
Maybe you should try taking him out every 30 minutes, and try a product called "housebreaking aid" put it on the ground outside where you want him to "go". It helps some dogs, but others has no effect.
When he is inside hook him to a leash and to your beltloop, never let him out of your sight and control. If you really want a housebroken dog for life, it may take alot of time and extreme measures.
I have alot more to add after I learn more about your circumstances.
He was in a little baby playpen for the first four months of his life. He would just pee and poop in there and play with the other dog that was kept with him (a cute Yorkie Poo). I'm certain this is why he is having such a hard time with housebreaking. In fact, I don't think until we got him he was ever disciplined in any way about anything.
The litter doesn't really matter - he doesn't mess with it at all.
We do use babygates to section off the house so he can only stay in the room we're in.
juliefurry
02-01-2006, 12:15 AM
yup, dogs that were raised living close to their own messes seem to have a hard time being housebroken. I would try letting him out more throughout the day until he learns to control himself better. If you can not watch him then he gets crate/put in his room until you can watch him agian.
find a method and stick to it you could be confusing him..keep him tethered to you..we had a pet store puppy many years ago and he was VERY hard to house train took about a year and we were crate training her
Well, none of the "nice" ways of training are working. The punishment is working better, and frankly I'm so frustrated with this animal that I would prefer it if he were absolutely terrified to relieve himself than have him messing up my floors. My ferret was easier to train, and if you have ever tried to train a ferret to use a litter box you know what I'm talking about.
By the way, I was out with him for 45 minutes, and as soon as I brought him inside, right in front of me, he peed, while he was laying down on his belly. He's literally soaking with **** right now. Where is that shock collar and whip?
*edit*
Direct physical punishment or the shock collar are the only things that are working. He's starting to become a teensy bit scared of hands, and I do NOT want that, but I can think of no other way to teach him. He is very good about letting us know he wants water, food, or anything else, EXCEPT when he has to potty.
PoodleMommy
02-06-2006, 07:42 PM
PLEASE!!!! Stop physically harming this dog. We also have a puppy who we are having a bit of a hard time training. However, with much love and praise we are making small successes. Everytime they go outside they should be given a treat and ALOT of praise, kisses, and hugs. But please stop shocking, hitting, and otherwise punishing this dog in a physical manner.
Julie
02-06-2006, 08:09 PM
Well, none of the "nice" ways of training are working. The punishment is working better, and frankly I'm so frustrated with this animal that I would prefer it if he were absolutely terrified to relieve himself than have him messing up my floors. My ferret was easier to train, and if you have ever tried to train a ferret to use a litter box you know what I'm talking about.
By the way, I was out with him for 45 minutes, and as soon as I brought him inside, right in front of me, he peed, while he was laying down on his belly. He's literally soaking with **** right now. Where is that shock collar and whip?
*edit*
Direct physical punishment or the shock collar are the only things that are working. He's starting to become a teensy bit scared of hands, and I do NOT want that, but I can think of no other way to teach him. He is very good about letting us know he wants water, food, or anything else, EXCEPT when he has to potty.
Of course he is getting scared of hands, this is due to your extreme corrections. And because the pup was laying down and soaked with urine is because he is submissive peeing cause he is scared and confused.
You are ruining this pup.
This is why shock collars should only be used by experienced people. ie. using them for the wrong situations, and times.
All of these problems can be corrected by a person with experience and the know how.
I am the one always listing ways a shock collar should be used, I am not against them. But they are only productive in rare instances. And not with puppies, and not for housetraining or such.
I would never think about putting one on such a small dog with minimal training. They should only be used to correct an already trained behaviour when you cannot reach them, such as hunting when the dog is two fields away. And then only for severe life death behaviour such as chasing deer, or farm animals. What you are doing really is ruining your pup.
Your anger has controlled your actions.
I wish I lived near you, I would take the poor pup for a few months to housebreak him for you. You are just not understanding your pup. And if your floors are more important than abusing your dog, then you should not have a dog. period!
Brattina88
02-06-2006, 08:40 PM
I would like to clarify a few things for you. Hopefully once you understand this you'll have a more positive attitude and a goal to fix this properly. I'm going to jump around a little bit, please stick with me.
I should add that he isn't stupid. He KNOWS that he isn't supposed to go in the house. If he does go inside, he looks guilty.
Your dog does not know that soiling outside is wrong. If he knew and understood, he wouldn't do it. The appearance that your puppy puts on when you get home is very often mistaken for guilt. It is not guilt, and scientists argue all the time whether or not dogs can even feel guilt. The way he acts like he does is because he's sensing your anger and disappointment. Even if you're not sure there is a mess, you come in and look, expecting one. Am I right?
He knows to scratch at doors to get to his water, or to go outside if he wants to play. He just refuses to do it when he wants to potty. He just seems extremely stubborn and lazy.
I'd suggest rigging some bells or something similar to your door and literally teaching him that nudging/ringing them = going outside. I honestly don't think your dog is making the connection about going outside for the purpose of eliminating only.
And I still don't understand why he doesn't mind laying down in his own excrement.
This is commonly known in rescue, puppy mill, and pet store dogs. Its referred to as "Dirty Dog Syndrome." In short, your dog never learned from a young age to keep its den clean. This can be caused by a negligent bitch, neglect, cramped quarters in which they never leave, including this:
He was in a little baby playpen for the first four months of his life. He would just pee and poop in there and play with the other dog that was kept with him (a cute Yorkie Poo). I'm certain this is why he is having such a hard time with housebreaking. In fact, I don't think until we got him he was ever disciplined in any way about anything.
So, you're right. Put simply, your puppy is what some call "Special needs," and let me assure you, special needs children aren't dealt with harsher because they don't understand, and neither should dogs. This means that it is going to be a lot harder for you to train him, and you are going to have to be very very persistent and consistent. It is possible, however. Trust me, I've fostered many dogs with this problem and I encourage you to ask more questions and figure this out, as I'm glad you've already asked for help.
PLEASE feel free to PM me or continue on this thread :)
I absolutely agree with Julie. You are RUINING your puppy by doing this. The punishment isn't working, I think that's what you don't understand. The dog is afraid to relieve itself, that's why there are less accidents. He is not LEARNING, he just being scared into holding it.
For example, put yourself in his shoes... You take your shoes off and put them on the floor. You get beat, yelled at and zapped for it. You do it again, and it happens again. You then become afraid to take your shoes off, and just leave them on. If you HAVE to take them off, you're going to do the doggie equivalent of rolling over and pissing himself because you do not want to subject yourself to PAIN! However, in all the beating, zapping and yelling, you still do not know what is acceptable. You don't know what they want you to do. Your puppy does not cower because he knows he's done the wrong thing, he cowers because he anticipates pain.
I do not understand the mentality that you need to hurt your dog in order to teach it. You need to teach your puppy, without scaring or hurting him, what you want from him. Set him up for success, not for failure, and I guarantee you will see results.
filarotten
02-07-2006, 01:01 AM
I think this has been this most upsetting post I have ever read. At first I thought you were actually looking for help. But, after reading farther, I have come to the realization you have so much anger directed at this poor puppy that your are enjoying the abuse you are inflicting upon it.
The most intelligent thing you could do to help this puppy, FIND IT ANOTHER HOME! NEVER GET ANOTHER DOG, AND SEEK PROFESSIONAL HELP FOR YOURSELF.
hmm not even sure you are reading these anymore...but in case you are...STOP teaching your dog pain.....pet store puppies are
notoriously hard to housebreak..keep him tethered to you when he starts to go interupt him and bring him outside...persistence,practice, patience,praise
Julie
02-07-2006, 10:42 AM
He is very good about letting us know he wants water, food, or anything else, EXCEPT when he has to potty.
He lets you know when he wants water, food, or anything else because he is only associating good and positive reactions for them. Example: He scratches on kitchen door he gets a drink of water or food. And some postivie attention for being such a smart doggie.
The reason "potty" is an exception to the "smart doggie" is he only associates that with negitive reactions. Example: he pees on floor and gets yelled at, hit on, and zapped.
See why he is not learning about "potty"?
The first thing is to prevent the accidents in the first place, so when he does go outside to pee, you can show him it is a good thing to do at this place.
I will tell you what I would do with your dog.
1. If dog is lying down, every time he stands up, pick him up in your arms and take him outside. Don't wait long enough to put shoes on....just go.
2. If dog is sleeping, as soon as he stands up, pick him up in your arms and take him outside. Don't wait long enough to put shoes on .......just go.
3. When dog gets a drink, he should be outside again within a few minutes.
4. When dog eats a bite, he should be outside again within a few minutes.
5. If dog has been playing when getting tired, out he goes again.
6. Put him in a crate at night, but do the opposite of now. Like if he has a blanket in there.....Take it out and let it bare. or If it is bare.......put a blanket in. I only say this because of his soiling his crate. Some will pee on certain things, so this is really just testing what works best.
7. In the morning as soon as your eyes open do not even use the bathroom yourself, the pup will hear you and wake up and pee. So when your eyes open just go get the pup and carry him outside.
8. When the pup is not crated tether him to your waist, so you can watch his every move and try to "read" his body language. Walking a circle, he has to go. Sniffing he has to go, when he stands up he has to go, wakes up has to go, etc.
9. If you catch him peeing in the house, clap your hands together, go pick him up take him outside. Don't say anything at all. Do not hit. Everytime he does finish or go outside he should be praised, praised, praised. Even a treat given outside too.
10. If he poops in the house, do the same as 9. But instead of disposing of the poo in the house, pick it up....take it outside and lay it where you want the pup to go. The next time you take him out.......take him to where the poo is and let him sniff it. This might help him to go.
11. Buy some Natures Miracle and use it to clean his crate, and any spot where he has gone in the house. He can smell pee and poo even after you clean it with soap and water. This helps to remove all odors so even he can't smell it.
12. Buy some "housebreaking aid" this is used outside in the spot where you want him to go. It works for some dogs, but not all. So then everytime you take him out sprinkle a couple drops in the designated area. Let him take time to smell and go. Then praise if he does.
13. Give the shocking collar to someone who knows what they are doing.
14. Dont ever hit or smack the dog.
15. Love the dog and gently show him what you want.
I am sure I will think of something else to add later.
PoodleMommy
02-07-2006, 11:36 AM
Julie Quick Question,
As I mentioned above we have a puppy that we are also having a little bit of a hard time training. What is this "housebreaking aid" you mentioned? And how exactly is it supposed to work? Thank You.
Also... does anyone have any suggestions on how to get the dog to tell you they have to go. Our other poodle just went to the door and we knew she had to go. This one will NOT tell us. We have been trying to take her every two hours and that basically stops all indoor accidents. It is basically like she knows she is supposed to go outside but doesnt know how to get there. I know it sounds wierd. Any suggestions would help. Thanks
Julie
02-07-2006, 11:56 AM
Julie Quick Question,
As I mentioned above we have a puppy that we are also having a little bit of a hard time training. What is this "housebreaking aid" you mentioned? And how exactly is it supposed to work? Thank You.
Also... does anyone have any suggestions on how to get the dog to tell you they have to go. Our other poodle just went to the door and we knew she had to go. This one will NOT tell us. We have been trying to take her every two hours and that basically stops all indoor accidents. It is basically like she knows she is supposed to go outside but doesnt know how to get there. I know it sounds wierd. Any suggestions would help. Thanks
It is just comes in a squirt bottle. I have not used it in a long time. I used it with a puppy I had about 15 years ago. But I know it doesn't effect all dogs, but worth a try if a pup will not go when you have them outside.
It has a smelly smell to it and they sniff and it is supposed to "get them going"
You just squirt a few drops on the ground every time you take them outside. And do it in the spot you want them to go. If your dog already goes when outside you wouldn't need anything like this. Basically for dogs that have no clue what to do when outside.
One of my dogs just give me a look when wants out. One of my dogs bark. And one of my dogs paws my leg. I never really "taught" any of that. It is just what they came up with on their own. But I always used the same phrase before I let them outside. "Wanna Go Outside?", Then after I let them out I always tell them "go potty potty". My husband hates when I say that.:D And none of them started letting me know until a good time after they were fully housebroken and trustworthy.
I know some people on here taught their pups to ring bells and other things to be let out, but I can't remember who that was.
PoodleMommy
02-07-2006, 12:20 PM
Thanks Julie,
We will wait and see if she comes up with something, we always say "want to go out" before we let her out as well.
Our other dog went on command, we did "go pee pee" or "go poo poo". LOL
This really did not go over well when we went on vacation, imagine walking around and having strangers stare, because you are saying "go pee pee" or "go poo poo".
Mordy
02-08-2006, 12:48 AM
PoodleMommy, you could try putting a bell on a string on your doorknob and ringing it every time you go outside. While doing this, ask your dog "do you need to go outside??" in a very happy, excited voice and make a really big deal out of it (but of course only when you aren't in a hurry to get outside in time for "urgent business":)).
Eventually she will catch on and ring the bells if she has to go.
Using a "potty command" is very smart, since if you use it all the time, your dog will learn to eliminate on command, which can come in extremely handy, believe me. :) If "go pee" or "go poo" are too embarassing, just think of something else. "Hurry up" or "do your business" works just as well. :)
Doberluv
02-08-2006, 02:47 AM
If you're not a troll, would you please re-home your dog. You won't be frustrated anymore. Your problems will be over. Let the poor dog have a chance at a life.
PoodleMommy
02-08-2006, 08:22 AM
Thanks Mordy.
We will try the bells.
Elissa
Im hoping this dog is okay since we havent heard anything new from the original poster. I really hope this was some sick joke.:mad:
Mister B
02-08-2006, 09:00 AM
rvm
Take a deep breath, forget about yesterday, start anew. HELP YOUR PUP. You said your pup was a pekeapoo? Small breeds can easily use pee pad for any length of time, some forever. We have had 100% success with pee pads, maybe you could have some success trying those. Baby steps! Best of luck, you can turn this around, it is not too late!!!
I should say, before anyone else gets upset any further, that by physical punishment, I'm not talking about beating the crap out of him. A light tap on the rear (light = what you do to a toddler reaching into the cookie jar) is all he generally gets, along with a stern "NO". The shock collar was never placed back on him per the advice given here, and it won't be. Pardon the facetious comment concerning that and the whip - it was a joke that was in bad taste for the company.
I think he's actually not afraid of hands, now that I watch him. I think he's expecting us to throw something for him to fetch, because we're constantly throwing stuff for him to go after. :D
Assuming a bit much here aren't we?
I think this has been this most upsetting post I have ever read. At first I thought you were actually looking for help. But, after reading farther, I have come to the realization you have so much anger directed at this poor puppy that your are enjoying the abuse you are inflicting upon it.
The most intelligent thing you could do to help this puppy, FIND IT ANOTHER HOME! NEVER GET ANOTHER DOG, AND SEEK PROFESSIONAL HELP FOR YOURSELF.
#1 We do this. Sometimes we will wait until he goes to the door to let us know, and which point we reward him and take him out.
#2 We aren't awake if he wakes up in the middle of the night, and if he does anything in the house because we were unable to take him out he's not punished in any way. It's not his fault.
#3 and #4 He's not so bad right after he eats or drinks - he expects to be taken out because that's his regular schedule. Get home, take him out, feed him, take him out. He doesn't have many problems with that (occassional, but not as often as, say, 8 weeks ago).
#6 I will go back to crate training. He's better about holding it at night. Enough so he gets a whole room and a small foyer area to play in while we sleep, and he doesn't often make any kind of a mess.
#7 We've figured this out - he goes outside first thing in the morning. He can't hold it more than about 10 minutes after he wakes up.
#8 We don't tether, so that way he can run and play (he doesn't get as much time to do so as we'd like). We DO watch him closely, and do what I mentioned in #1.
#9 Tried that and are continuing. Little success.
#10 Did that - he ate his own poop outside. We generally have to keep him separated from it, and when outside on a leash we have to tank him away from his own poop so he won't eat it.
#11 I'll try that. Where can I find it?
#12 He shows no interest in even sniffing the stuff - we've tried.
#13 We took the advice of a dog breeder in the use of the shock collar (American Bulldogs with quite a few champions). In fact, he doesn't blame us for being as frustrated as we are (note, frustration is not equal to anger) and agrees this dog isn't quite right.
#14 We didn't for months, and we are trying this again.
#15 He gets more love than some human children I know.
Thanks for taking the time to reply in an objective manner Julie!
I will tell you what I would do with your dog.
1. If dog is lying down, every time he stands up, pick him up in your arms and take him outside. Don't wait long enough to put shoes on....just go.
2. If dog is sleeping, as soon as he stands up, pick him up in your arms and take him outside. Don't wait long enough to put shoes on .......just go.
3. When dog gets a drink, he should be outside again within a few minutes.
4. When dog eats a bite, he should be outside again within a few minutes.
5. If dog has been playing when getting tired, out he goes again.
6. Put him in a crate at night, but do the opposite of now. Like if he has a blanket in there.....Take it out and let it bare. or If it is bare.......put a blanket in. I only say this because of his soiling his crate. Some will pee on certain things, so this is really just testing what works best.
7. In the morning as soon as your eyes open do not even use the bathroom yourself, the pup will hear you and wake up and pee. So when your eyes open just go get the pup and carry him outside.
8. When the pup is not crated tether him to your waist, so you can watch his every move and try to "read" his body language. Walking a circle, he has to go. Sniffing he has to go, when he stands up he has to go, wakes up has to go, etc.
9. If you catch him peeing in the house, clap your hands together, go pick him up take him outside. Don't say anything at all. Do not hit. Everytime he does finish or go outside he should be praised, praised, praised. Even a treat given outside too.
10. If he poops in the house, do the same as 9. But instead of disposing of the poo in the house, pick it up....take it outside and lay it where you want the pup to go. The next time you take him out.......take him to where the poo is and let him sniff it. This might help him to go.
11. Buy some Natures Miracle and use it to clean his crate, and any spot where he has gone in the house. He can smell pee and poo even after you clean it with soap and water. This helps to remove all odors so even he can't smell it.
12. Buy some "housebreaking aid" this is used outside in the spot where you want him to go. It works for some dogs, but not all. So then everytime you take him out sprinkle a couple drops in the designated area. Let him take time to smell and go. Then praise if he does.
13. Give the shocking collar to someone who knows what they are doing.
14. Dont ever hit or smack the dog.
15. Love the dog and gently show him what you want.
I am sure I will think of something else to add later.
I'm going to try this.
We do have potty commands, and outside commands etc.
PoodleMommy, you could try putting a bell on a string on your doorknob and ringing it every time you go outside. While doing this, ask your dog "do you need to go outside??" in a very happy, excited voice and make a really big deal out of it (but of course only when you aren't in a hurry to get outside in time for "urgent business":)).
Eventually she will catch on and ring the bells if she has to go.
Using a "potty command" is very smart, since if you use it all the time, your dog will learn to eliminate on command, which can come in extremely handy, believe me. :) If "go pee" or "go poo" are too embarassing, just think of something else. "Hurry up" or "do your business" works just as well. :)
Would it be helpful if we brought home another dog that was housebroken? Would Kirby (our pekeapoo) learn faster from watching another dog?
It's not something I'm seriously considering yet, but I wouldn't mind a large breed to go jogging with. I'm just not sure my cats would like it at all (they pee all over everything when they get upset - one ruined some luggage when we brought Kirby home). :eek:
My apologies for not condensing all the posts into one - trying to cook and do lots of other stuff at the same time (including watching Kirby eat).
Mordy
02-11-2006, 10:38 PM
No, bringing in another dog would not help your situation - more likely the new dog would pick up the present dog's current habits and start soiling indoors as well.